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#21
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Glad the package arrived safely for ya. *;)
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#22
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Skools, I guess 10 ply won't warp thats why you used one solid piece rather than 4x4 squares ??? I'm going to have to replace mine soon and it would be a whole lot easier to use 1 solid piece.
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#23
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I just did two hatches over the weekend and have around $40.00 in the repair. I used a router and adjusted the bit so only to cut the out side around the wood and not into the cover section. I had a peice of 3/4 ply wood which I cut to fit. I cut mine a a 45 degrees angle as its easier to make the transition with the glass. I cleaned up the underside of the cover with a sander. Then made up a hot batch of standard resin and coated the cover and the bottom of plywood and then put the two together on a flat surface. I placed a couple of cinder blocks on them and let it set over night. The next day I just glassed in the wood and was done. I think for these kind of repairs West System is over kill and you can save money by just using a standard resin. Mine seems very strong and are well sealed.
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#24
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the more the ply the stronger and i MAS epoxied that to the glass hatch then layed weight on it for a couple days till the epoxy was dry then glassed it in with poly resin. 1 piece will last longer and stay stronger than several small ones, no seams to crack and allow water in from the seperate pieces.
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1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's |
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#25
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Makes sense to me. Believe it or not when I replaced the wood last year I just epoxied a piece of 3/4 right to the bottom of the hatch cover after cutting the old wood out. It has held up really well I just think i should glass over the bare wood to make sure its gonna last.
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#26
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yeah plus it will make it much stronger with the glass over it.
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1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's |
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#27
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here's floor hatch rebuilt bump
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1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's |
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