Trailer Mods - Page 3

turbinedoctor · #21 01-06-2007, 06:46 PM

Thanks for all your input MJ. I have the grade 8 bolts that they recommed for the springs. :D

Check your PM

turbinedoctor · #22 01-07-2007, 05:14 PM

Pulled the hubs off today and took them apart and inspected. Bearings look good but I mashed the seals getting the rear bearing out. Will get two new seals, grease and repack the bearings.

Cleaned the threads on the lugs and lug nuts. Got new cotter pins. Took bearing buddies apart and cleaned them too.

Man, I'm doing more then what I had planned but since I got the axle out I might as well go through all of it.

No pictures of the fore mentioned work since my hands where greasy, dont want to mess up the new camera I got for Christmas. :D

macojoe · #23 01-07-2007, 07:36 PM

Quote:

No pictures of the fore mentioned work since my hands where greasy, dont want to mess up the new camera I got for Christmas. Cheesy

Man the keyboard must look real crapy!

turbinedoctor · #24 01-07-2007, 07:41 PM

Yeah but it's not my keyboard.

Every once in a while when looking at the GOOD MORNING thread the keys start to stick. ;D

Airslot · #25 01-07-2007, 09:59 PM

Turbo, if it'll make ya feel better, you can't remove the rear bearing without pulling the rear seal ;)

Airslot

Airslot · #26 01-08-2007, 12:21 AM

Turbo, I'm going to assume you know to seat the bearings by tightening the nut while spinning the hub? I was taught to crank it down darn tight while spinning the hub by hand. Then back off nut. Do not turn the hub at this point. Snug the nut back down and back off to first hole for cotter pin. Not sure why I typed all that since you already knew. ;)

Airslot

turbinedoctor · #27 01-08-2007, 01:13 AM

Thanks for the reminder, I knew it but had forget about it since it has been many years since I did any bearing work. I was taught to tighten nut till finger tight then turn to the next opening and pin it. Should be around 35 ftlbs. Thats how I used to do it, while turning the wheel.

Airslot · #28 01-08-2007, 01:50 AM

The method you described will work, but I'll bet that after 100 miles if you jack up one wheel you'll have more in /out play than you'd like.

Airslot

LESTERUS · #29 01-08-2007, 07:11 PM

TURBO:

BEING A BEARINGMAN I KNOW A LITTLE BOUT GREASE,
USE DOW CORNING BR2 PLUS, YOU CAN GO TO A MOTION INDUSTRIES OR APPLIED INDUSTRIAL (MY COMPETITORS) AND THEY CARRY IT, ALSO IF YOU'RE GOING TO BUY BEARINGS, TELL THEM TO ORDER "THE SET" WITH A LETTER "A" AT THE END (SPECIAL RUST PREVENTION TREATMENT FROM TIMKEN) NOT BY CONE AND CUP NUMBERS. IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS SEND ME THE CONE AND CUP NUMBERS AND I'LL TELL YOU WHAT SET YOU NEED.

IF YOU INSTALL THOSE BEARINGS AND USE THAT GREASE, YOU'LL NEVE HAVE A PROBLEM AGAIN.

LESTERUS
BY

Blue_Runner · #30 01-08-2007, 07:19 PM

Quote:

The method you described will work, but I'll bet that after 100 miles if you jack up one wheel you'll have more in /out play than you'd like.

No matter how you do it its not a bad idea to check them all and tighten if necessary after a time or two of pulling it (100 miles or whatever).