Trailer Mods

turbinedoctor · #1 01-04-2007, 06:01 PM

Just started the winter time mods I have been planning for the V. First is replace the springs and bolts. I got the springs removed and the axle out from under it. While I got the axle out I am going to strip off the rust and treat with rust stopper and paint with rust o leum.

Taking lots of pictures but to tired to post any now. Will keep you up dated and post pics later.

While Im at it I will check the bearings and grease them. What type of grease should I use. I have bearing buddies and need a grease to use in a grease gun. Any suggestions. ???

Blue_Runner · #2 01-04-2007, 06:10 PM

Been there done that...no power tools....old trailer....frozen bolts....my body still aches (2 years later). ;D

Airslot · #3 01-04-2007, 06:18 PM

Turbo, other may dissagree, but when repacking bearings I have gotten away from the Lubrimatic Marine grease. I've been using the Wolfshead red grease. Same grease comes in tubs and tubs. It's heat tolerant for disk brakes and I believe it claims to be waterproof. Pick it up a Gibbons for 2/3 bucks a pop.

Airslot

Skools Out · #4 01-04-2007, 07:20 PM

in stead of rust olem go to an automotive paint supply store and buy rust stopper that you brush on it will stop all rust and water tite plus seal up.

http://www.rustbullet.com/ProductCart/pc/mainIndex.asp

phatdaddy · #5 01-04-2007, 11:29 PM

ditto on what skools said. I use trailerkote (made by Pettit Paint) from west marine and have had very good results with it. It seems to have a watertite rust inhibitor property to it that is better than regular enamel. I used to do that and then coat with spray cosmoline(sp?) called linebacker. I found that the coating was ok for a while, but when it broke down, it would trap salt water against the metal. I always wanted to try "rhino-lining" an axle to see if that would stop rust.

macojoe · #6 01-05-2007, 12:51 AM

I use water proof grease for no other reason then thats what I have always used.
I know a few that use the red high heat like mentioned above.

Not all grease mix with each other!! So start with one and stay with it.

I have painted a trailer before and it lasted pretty good, but you are always going to have to stay on it!

As for the bearings, get your self one of theses!! I redo mine every year!! I clean well to get all grease out then repack in seconds!~

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisle...ayphotohosting

What do you have for springs?? eye to eye or slippers?? I have a brand new set for a 4000# trailer here, the good thing about them is they are Mono, meaning it is one leaf! No more squeaking rusty noisy springs!!

I bought 7 years ago for my single axle and they worked great!! But the co. messed up and sent me two pairs instead of two springs!

But they were eye to eye and I wanted slippers, so wht I had a friend do, is heat up the eye, and bend it stright out, now I had a slipper and it was great for 4 years till i sold the trailer.

There yours for the price of shipping. If you needs eye to eye I will have to measure how long they are.

turbinedoctor · #7 01-05-2007, 06:07 PM

MJ I use the C hook springs, and I already have new ones. Thanks for the offer.

I have already stripped the rust and sprayed with Rust Converter which turns black when it hits rust. I feel pretty good about the rust but want to put a coating over it to keep out the saltwater.

Will try to post pics tomorrow while at work, Im at work now but so is the BOSS. ;)

Still looking into the grease.

Thanks for all your input. :D

turbinedoctor · #8 01-06-2007, 10:08 AM

I've been having trouble uploading more then one picture at a time, Maybe MJ can look into this for me. As of now I have a few pictures to post.

First I jacked the trailer up and secured with jack stands and removed the wheel wells

Looks like the wheel wells will need some attention too.

Second I removed the wheels and replaced the bolts that hold the spring mounting plate. Stainless ;D

This little grinder and cutoff wheels make it easy work. ;)

Now its time for a beer. Sure bet Air Slot would like one. ;D

That beer hit the spot. Now it's time to remove the U bolts that hold the springs to the axle. Where did I leave that grinder ???

Thats all the pics I have uploaded for now. I will start working on that next. Stay tuned for more updates. :D

Airslot · #9 01-06-2007, 12:10 PM

Looks like Turbo stopped for another beer, and your right, I'd a had one with ya.
;D
Airslot

turbinedoctor · #10 01-06-2007, 12:16 PM

Now that I have the sausage and eggs in me and some more pics uploaded I will bring you up to speed with where I'm at.

With the spring / axle bolts cut and removed I dropped the spring and supported the axle with the jack.

I was hoping that the spacer between the spring and the axle would come off for cleaning but it is welded. Will have to clean with it attached. :(

Here is a pretty ugly spring. I was getting worried when ever I towed it to the ramp.

With springs removed, bolts replaced and the axle supported, I moved to the other side and did the same thing.

Make sure you use anti-sieze when using stainless bolts. This stuff is expensive but well worth it.

Now with the port side springs removed and axle out from under the boat, I replace these bolts too.

After sweeping up my mess and putting some tools away, it's time to look at the axle.
looks like it needs the rust stripped and a coat of rust converter.

Time for another beer. Be back in a minute. ;D