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#31
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That would make sense.. But going to leave it there... Don't want to pull gas tank out but have a lot of water under it and wondering how the original was set in... any thoughts????
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#32
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the original tank cavity was between the stringers with two bulkheads fore & aft to enclose the tank. there was a 1" hole in the bottom of the bulkheads and a piece of 1" pvc was glassed in the bottom and the holes were sealed to keep the cavity "spill proof". the theory was if the fuel cell ruptured, the fuel was still contained in the cavity and not get to the bilge. pretty sure it never worked like that though. then 4 wedges were put in the cavity to hold the tank off the bottom and off the pvc pipe. after that, they were foamed in to stabilize.
![]() when i installed my new tank, i eliminated the thru pipe and enlarged the drains
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#33
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Thank you phat, I am attaching 2 photos.. One shows the way somebody cut through the riser to install a larger tank.... The other one shows the front of the tank from the front... The pvc pipe goes all the way through to the bilge area.. The problem being is that the left about a one foot void with nowhere for the water to go... Am planning on extending the pipe and building a new riser in front and foaming the void and hopefully make water proof
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#34
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Hi I live in Tampa,(near Westchase), my v20 is up in crystal river where I work on it (rewiring new tank, instrument ) also have a 99 Durango. 5.2, I been reworking also. If you need help let me know
Jetblue319 |
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#35
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Hi Jet,, I live in the Seminole Heights area... I thank you for the offer and may take you up on it.. I have a johnson 150 on it and will definitely need to rewire it..
Did you get to see any of the pictures I posted? Been trying different ways to load them |
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#36
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i lived in seminole heights back in 2001, off of Highland , on south st. a block away from the river. its south of Hillsborough. ave. i have a johnson 150 that i purchase seized. saved a few parts i also have the manual in cd format. im off on weekends most of the time, just let me know.
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#37
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we live on the east side of nebraska on idlewild.... My biggest prob right now is how to pull the motor off so I can work on the transom.. Any thoughts??
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#38
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http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-c...9338-8825.html
if i'm not mistaken, that motor has a lifting eye on it |
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#39
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Either a chain hoist, come-along or (my own personal choice) a cherry picker will work fine.
I use a cherry picker because it allows me to move the engine around after I've removed it from the transom. It's simply a matter of logistics. Mobility equals ease of use. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-Ton-C...l_s1021_c0615b
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#40
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Roycie, that tank installation must have cut out a bulkhead? looks crazy...tank must be too long. ...and hoses going the wrong way?
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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