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#1
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You can also check the stringers where the drain holes are cut out back by the tramsom. Wellcraft decided not to seal the holes so the wood just gets wet and rots. On my old v20 I could stick my finger in the hole and found that there was no wood left in that area. I could actually push my finger into the hole and right through to the transom that was rotted. Before buying that boat at any price look around some more. You may be able to get one that doesn't need all that work at least right away.
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#2
07-11-2012, 07:20 PM
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One thig worries me about that boat that I DON'T see...that model shpuld hava a self-draining floor deck...there should be two drains in the back to drain water out that gets inside the boat...those drains should empty through fittings on the OUTSIDE of the boat...those outside drains are not present, so where does the water go cuz it's gonna go SOMEWHERE...
I agree w/Rob & Jason...w/the fore deck and floor deck soft as you say, plan to pull the cap...sounds like it doesn't scare you much, but keep in mind it's a long job....the good news too it is WHAT YOU LEARN about these boats by doing a job that extensive... I also agree w/the idea of looking around...these boats are plentiful w/in driving distance of Ral...you could look for 6 mos, find a better shape boat and still be in it, enjoying it befor you could do a cap-job on the 1st one...til you hear the motor run, that's a hidden bomb that can run your budget way outta sight... See what happens when you hook up a hot battery and all the other things you should before attempting to crank an engine been sitting that long... Says fuel tank replaced...if done right, that's a PLUS...if done wrong there could be all kinds of issues...is the floor deck above the tank solid?..that's one of the 1st areas usually soft on these boats..if it's solid, it was probably re-cored when the tank was replaced...what size tank did he put back in?...should be 60 gal...pop the inspection hatches in the floor and shine a flashlight in there to see if you can see spec plate...no matches or lighters please... See the drain directly beneath the Wellcraft logo on Robs boat?  I don't see them on the one you showed us...concerns me...heres a close up on my boat  Whatever ya do,DON'T GET INNA RUSH...and don't think any are the only ones and don't fall in love w/one til AFTER ya drag it home...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha 
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#3
07-11-2012, 07:23 PM
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out of all the items you mentioned, i would be the most concerned with the soft cuddy deck. the deck around the seats can be repaired without lifting the cap. mine (83) was soft under both seats and half way down the passenger side to the middle of the tank. to repair the foredeck properly, i believe the cap would have to come off and the work done from the bottom. one member(joe from miami) repaired his from the top and was happy with the results. i'm like everyone else, if you pay $1200, put $1500-$2000 in a hull rebuild and then need a 2 or 3 thousand used motor, you could probably find a better deal getting a better cared for rig. but if your looking for something to do and the peace of mind of knowing what you got, go for it.
after all, you should never mix common sense and economics with boating reel, you got good eyes, also just noticed it's a 20" transom, not a deal breaker, but makes offshore a little dicey and might be harder to find a replacement motor. here is where joe is selling his rig, you can check out some of his post and see how he repaired the cuddy deck http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=17644 Last edited by phatdaddy; 07-11-2012 at 07:32 PM.
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