Considering buying v20 project in NC
 

Hello,

I found a 1985 V20 cuddy for sale on Craigslist in Raleigh, NC, and am seeking opinions and facts about what it would take to restore her. The boat is here: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/boa/3046699765.html.

My goal is to restore the boat and use it for inshore/nearshore fishing and family fun.

I don't know much about the boat in general, but upon Googling the boat model I found this site and community around V20s. I love the boat lines and flared bow and am considering taking on the restoration project. It will be my first project, but I've got to start somewhere. I expect to handle much of the restoration work on my own, and hopefully not spend more than $4-5k on her over the next year to get her up to speed.

The good: The boat was primarily used in fresh water. Hull is solid and unpainted, and stringers appear solid on inspection and tapping them with a mallet. The transom doesn't budge when I rock the engine. The dual axle trailer is in decent shape.

The bad: Based on a read of the forums, it's already looking like the boat's problem areas are typical. It's been sitting unattended for 6-8 years. The deck has soft spots around the captains chair. Most concerning though is the soft foredeck above the cuddy. It flexes really easily when I push on it and I wouldn't consider standing on it as is. This flex causes the windshields to flex also. Also, the engine ran when he last pulled the boat, but it doesn't run now and the steering cable is frozen at the engine. The engine is a 200HP Johnson (though the add says 150 evinrude)


I'm throwing out these details to see if anyone on the forum has suggestions about whether the boat is beyond restoration due to the soft condition of the foredeck. I'm most concerned about the hull and deck, as the look of the hull is why I'm interest in the boat. I'm open to repowering, as long as I can make the hull solid and seaworthy.

Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

Welcome to the site....I'm sure you'll be happy with a V-20 as you can tell by now we all are.

First off the price seems good if the engine is servicable. So I would focus on the engine first. Frozen steering is not a deal breaker.

The soft spots on floors have been fixed by many members here with some research you can get some good advice on how to do that. Option one is to cut around the perimeter of the floor, pull it out recore , fiberglass and reinstall and paint.

The other option which is much more work would be to separate the whole cap from the hull. I personally wouldnt want to tackle that but being that you have the cuddy deck problem that might be the way to do it. and you can do the floor and deck in one shot.

I cant say that I can remember too many people repairing the cuddy deck. I know a few guys that added some aluminum angle underneath to stop some flex but not sure how bad yours is and wether or not that would be sufficient.

I think your budget is reasonable to make those repairs as long as you arent charging yourself for the time involved.

That said I would look around though and see if you cant find a boat without the deck problems for $3000-$3500 and then maybe only have to drop a thousand or so to get it to where you want it and wind up spending the same amount of money and alot less time.

I know I am not answering your question so much as rambling.

Again though...dont forget the engine.

Like RWilson said. The engine can be a dealbreaker, but if you can get the price a little lower it would be a good deal even if the engine was shot. As for the soft spots, I am 100% AGAINST cutting the liner to repair soft spots. Its much better to pull the cap and flip it over then you repair it from the bottom. But i understand some people do not have a way to lift the cap. Overall if the engine was not frozen and had compression and the boat is in the condition you stated i would buy it. But first i would definately try to get it for a little less than the askinh price.

Thank you for the welcome, and the quick feedback. Definitely some things to think about. Pulling the cap had not occurred to me (again), I'm new at this. But I have an oak tree and the chainfalls to do so. The labor of love to do so, I'll have to ponder that.

I'll definitely try to get the price down on him. As far as looking for other boats, there are many different project hulls out there, but I'm not seeing an abundance of v20s within a reasonable driving distance. How often do these come available in the NC area? Any thoughts on this Hedge?

Also, are their any problem areas historically with the '85 era V20 that I should take a closer look at?

Also, if you have not done so, remove both rod boxes and check your stringers from their holes. Some have foam that limits access. I would not have a rotting 18 Fisherman in my yard if i had done that.

Here's a dual console

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/boa/3122227521.html

You can also check the stringers where the drain holes are cut out back by the tramsom. Wellcraft decided not to seal the holes so the wood just gets wet and rots. On my old v20 I could stick my finger in the hole and found that there was no wood left in that area. I could actually push my finger into the hole and right through to the transom that was rotted. Before buying that boat at any price look around some more. You may be able to get one that doesn't need all that work at least right away.

One thig worries me about that boat that I DON'T see...that model shpuld hava a self-draining floor deck...there should be two drains in the back to drain water out that gets inside the boat...those drains should empty through fittings on the OUTSIDE of the boat...those outside drains are not present, so where does the water go cuz it's gonna go SOMEWHERE...

I agree w/Rob & Jason...w/the fore deck and floor deck soft as you say, plan to pull the cap...sounds like it doesn't scare you much, but keep in mind it's a long job....the good news too it is WHAT YOU LEARN about these boats by doing a job that extensive...

I also agree w/the idea of looking around...these boats are plentiful w/in driving distance of Ral...you could look for 6 mos, find a better shape boat and still be in it, enjoying it befor you could do a cap-job on the 1st one...til you hear the motor run, that's a hidden bomb that can run your budget way outta sight...
See what happens when you hook up a hot battery and all the other things you should before attempting to crank an engine been sitting that long...
Says fuel tank replaced...if done right, that's a PLUS...if done wrong there could be all kinds of issues...is the floor deck above the tank solid?..that's one of the 1st areas usually soft on these boats..if it's solid, it was probably re-cored when the tank was replaced...what size tank did he put back in?...should be 60 gal...pop the inspection hatches in the floor and shine a flashlight in there to see if you can see spec plate...no matches or lighters please...

See the drain directly beneath the Wellcraft logo on Robs boat?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/DSCN0292.jpg
I don't see them on the one you showed us...concerns me...heres a close up on my boat
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...n/IMG_0234.jpg


Whatever ya do,DON'T GET INNA RUSH...and don't think any are the only ones and don't fall in love w/one til AFTER ya drag it home...

out of all the items you mentioned, i would be the most concerned with the soft cuddy deck. the deck around the seats can be repaired without lifting the cap. mine (83) was soft under both seats and half way down the passenger side to the middle of the tank. to repair the foredeck properly, i believe the cap would have to come off and the work done from the bottom. one member(joe from miami) repaired his from the top and was happy with the results. i'm like everyone else, if you pay $1200, put $1500-$2000 in a hull rebuild and then need a 2 or 3 thousand used motor, you could probably find a better deal getting a better cared for rig. but if your looking for something to do and the peace of mind of knowing what you got, go for it.
after all, you should never mix common sense and economics with boating

reel, you got good eyes, also just noticed it's a 20" transom, not a deal breaker, but makes offshore a little dicey and might be harder to find a replacement motor.

here is where joe is selling his rig, you can check out some of his post and see how he repaired the cuddy deck

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=17644

I don't know guys, looks like a deal to me. The trailer does look good, can't see any rust even on the bunk supports. As far as deck drains, I beleive from the second pic his deck drains are plumbed the same as mine. They go from the deck into the splashwell and out the back through the transom. You can see water stains on the transom in the same vicinity that my drains discharge.

If he got into the boat and found it to be solid rot I could see parting it out and break even if not make some money on the education. Heck, trailer is probably worth $6-$800.