Losing prime - Page 2

awthacker · #11 03-21-2011, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsubaki

awthacker, please refresh my memory.
I had it in my mind you had cleaned the tank, replaced the fill hose and the fuel lines to the motor and added the water separator prior to or during your repower.

Cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel lines, left the primer bulb because it looked new, did not replace the fill hose or air vent hose, replaced water seperator.

awthacker · #12 03-21-2011, 08:47 PM

Today I reconnected the VRO wiring harness, replaced the primer bulb, and bypassed a fuel shut-off valve. I brought along a 6.6 gal pony tank. The boat idled nicely through the no wake zone, then planed up nicely before dying out back to idle speed while at 3/4 throttle. My buddy pumped the bulb and it picks up again. We switched to the pony tank and have the same problem. Tomorrow I'll inspect the fuel pump for blockage.

awthacker · #13 03-21-2011, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsubaki

Seems I looked at a VRO on a 3 cylinder that would require you to keep the wires connected in order for the fuel pump to work or you would have to completely remove the VRO system, tap into the plug in the block in order to get a vacuum line and then install a regular vacuum type fuel pump.
Reconnect the wires and see if the problem disappears. Chances are there is a signal wire to the oil pump that will set off the low oil alarm, if so you may need to cut that wire.
The link to you provided to the premix pump looks like an easy solution.

There was a low oil alarm when the wiring harness was connected. But the engine still stalled. So the harness is disconnected again. I have run it this way for maybe 5 hrs prior to the problem.

tsubaki · #14 03-22-2011, 05:25 AM

And with the engine off, you can pump the bubble and it stays hard?

Cam · #15 03-22-2011, 06:31 AM

What happened to me personally, my fuel pump diaphragm split and kept flooding the engine. Sort of the same symptoms you have. Once the daiphragm broke, it kept flooding the cylinders when I pumped up the ball. Take off the cowl and while pumping the ball, watch to see if fuel is pouring through. When this happened to me, ball would not get hard after pumping it up. If this is the case, you will need a new fuel pump. Unfortunately, big $$$$. Good luck and keep us posted.

tsubaki · #16 03-22-2011, 07:02 AM

That was my next thought or the carb needles aren't seating or the floats are out of adjustment.

aussie · #17 03-22-2011, 01:24 PM

dont no if u like my idea but if the pump is very expensive u can put a electric fuel pump on it i think there only wort $50.00 and the good thing is u dont have to prime the bulb each time to start soon as u turn on the ignition the carbs r full we call them a solid state fuel pump here is a pic

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Electric-Fuel...item1e61c7b7ae

awthacker · #18 03-22-2011, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aussie

dont no if u like my idea but if the pump is very expensive u can put a electric fuel pump on it i think there only wort $50.00 and the good thing is u dont have to prime the bulb each time to start soon as u turn on the ignition the carbs r full we call them a solid state fuel pump here is a pic

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Electric-Fuel...item1e61c7b7ae

Not that I think yours is a bad idea, but this morning I ordered the OEM fuel mix pump that comes w/out the VRO.

Also, yes, my bulb does go soft while resting. Sometimes it takes like 20 squeezes to get it firm. I have also seen fuel leakage through that little red switch (manual choke lever?) when squeezing the bulb. I just assumed that was a normal symptom of over-priming or flooding.

tsubaki · #19 03-22-2011, 04:05 PM

The manual prime/choke may leak at times. For the most part it just scoots gas past the carbs and into the throat of the carbs, but usually leaks when rotated.
Being you bought the part to dismiss the VRO and have the fuel mix retrofit, let us know how it did.
On another note, you might have needed 2 fuel pumps at a cost of $80-$100 each. Also having to need to derive a vacuum siphon for the pumps and having to made a mounting bracket for them. The cost of the fuel mix pump ain't that bad considering the aggravation of the other installation.
aussie's electric pump idea will work but I've always been afraid of that installation.
While you are waiting, remove the stuff to and from the pump, reconnect to the carbs (if possible without a bunch of aggravation) to see if the floats are seating when the bubble is primed.

aussie · #20 03-22-2011, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awthacker

Not that I think yours is a bad idea, but this morning I ordered the OEM fuel mix pump that comes w/out the VRO.

Also, yes, my bulb does go soft while resting. Sometimes it takes like 20 squeezes to get it firm. I have also seen fuel leakage through that little red switch (manual choke lever?) when squeezing the bulb. I just assumed that was a normal symptom of over-priming or flooding.

well if the fuel line is draining back it sounds like the one way valve in the pump is not sealing its like having a hose full a water and holding your finger on it the water will stay in the pipe take your finger off and it drains out