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#1
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Also, yes, my bulb does go soft while resting. Sometimes it takes like 20 squeezes to get it firm. I have also seen fuel leakage through that little red switch (manual choke lever?) when squeezing the bulb. I just assumed that was a normal symptom of over-priming or flooding. |
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#2
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The manual prime/choke may leak at times. For the most part it just scoots gas past the carbs and into the throat of the carbs, but usually leaks when rotated.
Being you bought the part to dismiss the VRO and have the fuel mix retrofit, let us know how it did. On another note, you might have needed 2 fuel pumps at a cost of $80-$100 each. Also having to need to derive a vacuum siphon for the pumps and having to made a mounting bracket for them. The cost of the fuel mix pump ain't that bad considering the aggravation of the other installation. aussie's electric pump idea will work but I've always been afraid of that installation. While you are waiting, remove the stuff to and from the pump, reconnect to the carbs (if possible without a bunch of aggravation) to see if the floats are seating when the bubble is primed.
__________________
'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#3
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#4
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if you think about it, the primer bulb will not stay hard if you are running the engine, the fuel pump pulls a vacuum on the line, which overrides the antisiphon valve in the tank, drawing fuel up thu the line. It will draw fuel out of the line/primer bulb till the vacuum overcomes the anti siphon valve or the resistance in the length of line/height of fuel drawn. the only time the bulb is completly hard is when you prime it up to a point of pressue ahead of the bulb against the seats in the carb. Its normal for the primer bulb to not be hard after you run the engine, for that matter, its normal for it to be soft after it sits for a long while, the check valves are not that good in a primer bulb. I do recomend using only an OEM primer bulb, either Merc/ yamaha/ or Bombardier(OMC). I have thrown dozens of fairly new Moeller and Sierra primer bulbs in the trash
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#5
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So where do Perko (the old one) and Attwood (the new one) fit into the primer bulb hierarchy? lol.
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#6
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if its not an OEM, it fits in the trash can
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#7
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If it's old "winter gas" and you're now above 70F it might be as simple as vapor lock. Refineries blend gas differently with more C4 for winter months so it'll kick off in cold temp's. I've had a soft bulb and an engine that would bog above 2500 rpm because I was running winter gas out of the boat in spring. I ended up pulling the anti siphon valve out of the fuel line so I could burn off the old gas without vapor lock. The butane is volatile and creates lots of vapors on a warm day. Hope it's something simple.
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#8
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#9
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__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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