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  #1  
Unread 03-22-2011, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by aussie View Post
dont no if u like my idea but if the pump is very expensive u can put a electric fuel pump on it i think there only wort $50.00 and the good thing is u dont have to prime the bulb each time to start soon as u turn on the ignition the carbs r full we call them a solid state fuel pump here is a pic

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Electric-Fuel...item1e61c7b7ae
Not that I think yours is a bad idea, but this morning I ordered the OEM fuel mix pump that comes w/out the VRO.

Also, yes, my bulb does go soft while resting. Sometimes it takes like 20 squeezes to get it firm. I have also seen fuel leakage through that little red switch (manual choke lever?) when squeezing the bulb. I just assumed that was a normal symptom of over-priming or flooding.
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  #2  
Unread 03-22-2011, 04:05 PM
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The manual prime/choke may leak at times. For the most part it just scoots gas past the carbs and into the throat of the carbs, but usually leaks when rotated.
Being you bought the part to dismiss the VRO and have the fuel mix retrofit, let us know how it did.
On another note, you might have needed 2 fuel pumps at a cost of $80-$100 each. Also having to need to derive a vacuum siphon for the pumps and having to made a mounting bracket for them. The cost of the fuel mix pump ain't that bad considering the aggravation of the other installation.
aussie's electric pump idea will work but I've always been afraid of that installation.
While you are waiting, remove the stuff to and from the pump, reconnect to the carbs (if possible without a bunch of aggravation) to see if the floats are seating when the bubble is primed.
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  #3  
Unread 03-22-2011, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awthacker View Post
Not that I think yours is a bad idea, but this morning I ordered the OEM fuel mix pump that comes w/out the VRO.

Also, yes, my bulb does go soft while resting. Sometimes it takes like 20 squeezes to get it firm. I have also seen fuel leakage through that little red switch (manual choke lever?) when squeezing the bulb. I just assumed that was a normal symptom of over-priming or flooding.
well if the fuel line is draining back it sounds like the one way valve in the pump is not sealing its like having a hose full a water and holding your finger on it the water will stay in the pipe take your finger off and it drains out
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Unread 03-22-2011, 06:19 PM
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if you think about it, the primer bulb will not stay hard if you are running the engine, the fuel pump pulls a vacuum on the line, which overrides the antisiphon valve in the tank, drawing fuel up thu the line. It will draw fuel out of the line/primer bulb till the vacuum overcomes the anti siphon valve or the resistance in the length of line/height of fuel drawn. the only time the bulb is completly hard is when you prime it up to a point of pressue ahead of the bulb against the seats in the carb. Its normal for the primer bulb to not be hard after you run the engine, for that matter, its normal for it to be soft after it sits for a long while, the check valves are not that good in a primer bulb. I do recomend using only an OEM primer bulb, either Merc/ yamaha/ or Bombardier(OMC). I have thrown dozens of fairly new Moeller and Sierra primer bulbs in the trash
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  #5  
Unread 03-22-2011, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by spareparts View Post
I do recomend using only an OEM primer bulb, either Merc/ yamaha/ or Bombardier(OMC). I have thrown dozens of fairly new Moeller and Sierra primer bulbs in the trash
So where do Perko (the old one) and Attwood (the new one) fit into the primer bulb hierarchy? lol.
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Unread 03-22-2011, 08:27 PM
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if its not an OEM, it fits in the trash can
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  #7  
Unread 03-27-2011, 07:42 PM
Steplift 72' Steplift 72' is offline
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If it's old "winter gas" and you're now above 70F it might be as simple as vapor lock. Refineries blend gas differently with more C4 for winter months so it'll kick off in cold temp's. I've had a soft bulb and an engine that would bog above 2500 rpm because I was running winter gas out of the boat in spring. I ended up pulling the anti siphon valve out of the fuel line so I could burn off the old gas without vapor lock. The butane is volatile and creates lots of vapors on a warm day. Hope it's something simple.
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Unread 03-27-2011, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steplift 72' View Post
If it's old "winter gas" and you're now above 70F it might be as simple as vapor lock. Refineries blend gas differently with more C4 for winter months so it'll kick off in cold temp's. I've had a soft bulb and an engine that would bog above 2500 rpm because I was running winter gas out of the boat in spring. I ended up pulling the anti siphon valve out of the fuel line so I could burn off the old gas without vapor lock. The butane is volatile and creates lots of vapors on a warm day. Hope it's something simple.
If a $315 fuel pump qualifies as simple, then it was. It was definitely the easiest part to change out. We ran the boat 30 miles on Saturday without any problems.
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  #9  
Unread 03-27-2011, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awthacker View Post
If a $315 fuel pump qualifies as simple, then it was. It was definitely the easiest part to change out. We ran the boat 30 miles on Saturday without any problems.
Ouch on the $315.... congrats on the running on Sat without problems.
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