Quote:
Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR
Before you go cutting with a sawzall, I would get a GOOD 1/4" die grinder and a carbide bit and go in and relieve the housing around the broken bolts. You should be able to use a 2" long cutting bit and go in there and remove some of the aluminum and relieve some of the pressure locking those bolts in there. It looks like your going to have to replace the adapter anyways, so at this point why not just cut her up and make less work for yourself.
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Ferm, you are a real man of genius. Got some carbide burs at work...
They have 4" long shanks which lets me get real close to the block...
I think I'll try to grind right through the bolts and leave about 1/2" to grab onto when I remove the stubs from the block. And yeah, the adapter is going to be pretty chewed up by the time I'm done and I will need to replace it. At this point I'd go the sawzall route if I was sure that I wasn't going to cause damage to other parts. The controlled demolition with the bur seems like a safer choice.
For those of you tuning in late, three of six long bolts that hold the powerhead on are sheared at the head. The problem is about 6 inches of the shank is frozen in the adapter plate by corrosion, pinning the block to it.
11-13-2008, 09:55 PM
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