Yamaha Shift Shaft (Again)
 

Loking forward to next season so I decided to tackle the shift shaft on my '86 V6 Yammie before the snow flies. I've received help here before on this subject but looks but it looks like I could be facing a worst case scenario. I hate to be a nuisance but hopefully lots of pictures will make uo for it...

Here is an overall shot with some labels pointing to the areas I'll be talking about...
http://www.monkeybutler.com/help/1.jpg


Here is a closeup of the area designated "See Next Photo.

http://www.monkeybutler.com/help/2.jpg

This is the right rear where the block meets the intermidiate spacer. There is a chunk of the spacer missing. I think it was wedged off by the pressure generated by the corrosion that filled the bolt hole as I tried to remove the bolt. You can see the corrsion as a white/brown layer between the shank of the bolt and spacer itself. You can tell that I used plenty of heat.

This next photo shows where I tried the "drill holes into side of spacer to sever long bolts" method.

http://www.monkeybutler.com/help/3.jpg

I have two broken bolts on this side and one on the other side. Because the lower cowl is in the way I the closest I could get to the top of the spacer still leaves almost 1-1/2" of bolt shank in the spacer. Using a cheap engine lift didn't budge it. I could trailer it to a friends shop where there is an overhead hoist that could lift the entire boat but I have my doubts that even that would work.

So that leaves option two, which Big Shrimpin described but I'm having a hard time visualizing...

http://www.monkeybutler.com/help/4.jpg

Method two invlves taking a sawzall to the spacer which is likely my next step. I'm guessing at the red cut line shown above asonce again the lower cowling prevents going any higher. I having a hard time figuring out how to proceed around the front of the spacer where that steering arm and pivot are. Big Shrimpin???

Also, at one point it was brought up that it might be possible to replace the shift shaft withou powerhead removal on some Yamahas by removing the reed block. Here is a closeup of the area...

http://www.monkeybutler.com/help/s1

I don't think it's possible on this motor, a 1986 V6 Special (220HP). Here is another shot...

http://www.monkeybutler.com/help/s2.jpg

The head of the shift rod is buried right underneath the crackcase with less than a inch of space above it. Removing the reed block won't help.

And to all of you Veterans out there, Thank You for all that you have done for this country.

You will have to get the power head off! No way around it!

Are all the bolts out or broken?? I wish I could be of more help, mine came right off with out anything breaking.

Good Luck, to much work for me these days!!

When you drilled into the intermediate spacer, did you drill deep enough to actually cut the bolts? Did the short bolts/nuts in the front and rear of the spacer come out? I believe there are 10 bolts, 6 long and 4 short. (As I recall, 2 of the short are studs in the power head with nuts.) If you did cut the bolts, and the short bolts/nuts are out, the power head should pull free of the spacer. The vertical holes in the intermediate spacer that the 6 long bolts go through into the block are tapered and has a much smaller inside diameter at the bolt head. This small I.D. is where the corrosion seizes the bolt shank causing the bolt head to break off. The I.D. of the tapered hole at top of the spacer where you drilled close to the block is about 1/3 larger and generally is not where the bolt seizes. I think your pictures are great but I can't tell from the pictures if the long broken bolts are actually cut. Since the tapered hole at the top of the spacer is a much larger I.D., you should be able to see if the bolts are cut. I don't know what type of drill bits you used, but what is recommended are "DeWalt Pilot Point Bits" in a 3/8" or 1/2" diameter. Pilot point bits have a different pointed end and don't tend to walk around like standard bits do. Also they have a hex shaft so they won't slip in the drill chuck. If you use a sawsall you will probably need to replace the spacer which makes for a longer job. I hope this helps!!!

Geek

Your 2nd picture shows the break away and the exposed corrosion. Is that the only broken bolt that is exposed? The corrosion looks like aluminum oxide. I have heard that straight chlorine bleach dissolves aluminum oxide. I would hit that corrosion with bleach to dissolve it. If all the bolts are indeed cut, that exposed bolt with aluminum oxide corrosion may be all that is holding it.

Geek

heat, hoist, prybar.

I second that

And don't forget the BFH.

My favorite tool!

Thanks guys...

Yep, I have drilled completely through the bolts. I can see the outline of the shank in each hole and you can just "feel" when the bit stops chewing on the SS and bites into straight aluminum.

And now that you mention it I think I remember hearing about bleach on AlOx. I ventured into the forbidden sector (laundry area) to look for some but I found about 12 different scented fabric safe whiteners and brighteners and whatnot but nothing look or smelled like real bleach. I'm stopping to get some on the way home.

There are precious few palces where you can gain leverage to pry on the head. The damn lower cowl is flimsy and in the way of everything. It's working against me like one of those cones you put on your dog so he can't chew his a$$.

So hopefully next weekend I'll be able to hook it to a trolley hoist and apply lots of heat and pry and my BFH. Well every time I get out my BFH bad things usually happen...

http://www.monkeybutler.com/help/bfh.jpg

yes yamaha's have that dumb design with the solid cown that omd did away with a long time ago. with a hoist and heat you will start to see it seperate and you'll be able to slide a prybar into there.