Yamaha Shift Shaft (Again)

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by cterrebonne

heat, hoist, prybar.

And don't forget the BFH.

[bradford]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

And don't forget the BFH.

My favorite tool!

[Monkey Butler]

Thanks guys...

Yep, I have drilled completely through the bolts. I can see the outline of the shank in each hole and you can just "feel" when the bit stops chewing on the SS and bites into straight aluminum.

And now that you mention it I think I remember hearing about bleach on AlOx. I ventured into the forbidden sector (laundry area) to look for some but I found about 12 different scented fabric safe whiteners and brighteners and whatnot but nothing look or smelled like real bleach. I'm stopping to get some on the way home.

There are precious few palces where you can gain leverage to pry on the head. The damn lower cowl is flimsy and in the way of everything. It's working against me like one of those cones you put on your dog so he can't chew his a$$.

So hopefully next weekend I'll be able to hook it to a trolley hoist and apply lots of heat and pry and my BFH. Well every time I get out my BFH bad things usually happen...

[cterrebonne]

yes yamaha's have that dumb design with the solid cown that omd did away with a long time ago. with a hoist and heat you will start to see it seperate and you'll be able to slide a prybar into there.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Before you go cutting with a sawzall, I would get a GOOD 1/4" die grinder and a carbide bit and go in and relieve the housing around the broken bolts. You should be able to use a 2" long cutting bit and go in there and remove some of the aluminum and relieve some of the pressure locking those bolts in there. It looks like your going to have to replace the adapter anyways, so at this point why not just cut her up and make less work for yourself.

[parishht]

If the bolt heads are accessible, why not grind them away
and then dissassemble the unit and then work the bolts out?

[cterrebonne]

the shanks of the bolts are sticking in the mid plate.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by parishht

If the bolt heads are accessible, why not grind them away
and then dissassemble the unit and then work the bolts out?

I believe they have already broken off. That is why he drilled through them to cut the bolts in half up higher.

[Monkey Butler]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

Before you go cutting with a sawzall, I would get a GOOD 1/4" die grinder and a carbide bit and go in and relieve the housing around the broken bolts. You should be able to use a 2" long cutting bit and go in there and remove some of the aluminum and relieve some of the pressure locking those bolts in there. It looks like your going to have to replace the adapter anyways, so at this point why not just cut her up and make less work for yourself.

Ferm, you are a real man of genius. Got some carbide burs at work...




They have 4" long shanks which lets me get real close to the block...




I think I'll try to grind right through the bolts and leave about 1/2" to grab onto when I remove the stubs from the block. And yeah, the adapter is going to be pretty chewed up by the time I'm done and I will need to replace it. At this point I'd go the sawzall route if I was sure that I wasn't going to cause damage to other parts. The controlled demolition with the bur seems like a safer choice.

For those of you tuning in late, three of six long bolts that hold the powerhead on are sheared at the head. The problem is about 6 inches of the shank is frozen in the adapter plate by corrosion, pinning the block to it.

[Skools Out]

not to throw a wrench in but have you checked for a new adapter plate yet? i need one for my 92 Johnson 225 and no longer avail. plus the cost new was like $600+ so it's not worth it.