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  #1  
Unread 05-03-2009, 10:01 PM
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Sounds like it leaned out on yeah. Like I was saying in post #2 about your plugs, that one plug REALLY concerned me from the white on it. When you say it acted like a dead battery after a hard run, that is a direct indicator of a stuck piston. Chances are you smeared it when you tried to start it and it didn't kick right off. The rattling is most likely a smeared piston skirt that is rattling against the cylinder wall. Been there, done that. 140 is hot if that is what it was cruising, an old school looper should run 140-170 at idle and IMMEDIATLEY drop to about 100-120 at 3000-4500 and bump 130 maybe 135 under WOT on a hot day. Pull the head on that side and look for signs of aluminum stuck to the cylinder walls, but the head needs to come off.

Let me know if it's bad, my 140 could be made available if it's bad and you don't want to build it.
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2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

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  #2  
Unread 05-03-2009, 10:11 PM
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yep as Ferm said it is shot that 60 psi is a bad sign it should be around 125 psi each
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  #3  
Unread 05-04-2009, 09:02 AM
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Ok I will pull the heads and see what exactly whats going on, Could it be a broken reed? Since I found lots of pre-mix oil in the Air baffle ?
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Unread 05-04-2009, 09:12 AM
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A broken reed could have done the damage, but they normally window the block when they go through. Remember that a 2 stroke has 2 different compression sides to it, in front of and behind the piston. A compression test only measures in front of the piston and a broken or missing reed won't affect it unless when it broke it went through the engine and damaged the piston or cylinder. Unfortunately though your compression numbers along with the noise is a bad sign, and most likely means that boring and new pistons is in your future. You may be able to clean them with some acid and put just pistons in it, but I'm not normally that lucky. My 140 looper pops at 150-155 pounds of compression, so that should give you an idea of how far down you are. When you pull the heads look for smeared spots on the cylinder walls, that will be the aluminum from the pistons. It is possible on the looper engines though to pull the pistons out with the powerhead still on the mid.
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2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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Unread 05-04-2009, 10:05 AM
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Another source of a rattling noise could be magnets coming loose under the flywheel...but that would not explain low compression...Ferm's probably right...as usual
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Unread 05-04-2009, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reelapeelin View Post
Another source of a rattling noise could be magnets coming loose under the flywheel...but that would not explain low compression...Ferm's probably right...as usual
140's didn't suffer this problem as the magnets in them are encased into the flywheel(not epoxied like the 35 amp flywheels), unless somebody installed a 35 amp V6 style charging system.
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2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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  #7  
Unread 05-04-2009, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR View Post
140's didn't suffer this problem as the magnets in them are encased into the flywheel(not epoxied like the 35 amp flywheels), unless somebody installed a 35 amp V6 style charging system.
Didn't know that re the V-4s...yer right...it did happen on my V-6
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'84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc
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  #8  
Unread 05-04-2009, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR View Post
Sounds like it leaned out on yeah. Like I was saying in post #2 about your plugs, that one plug REALLY concerned me from the white on it. When you say it acted like a dead battery after a hard run, that is a direct indicator of a stuck piston. Chances are you smeared it when you tried to start it and it didn't kick right off. The rattling is most likely a smeared piston skirt that is rattling against the cylinder wall. Been there, done that. 140 is hot if that is what it was cruising, an old school looper should run 140-170 at idle and IMMEDIATLEY drop to about 100-120 at 3000-4500 and bump 130 maybe 135 under WOT on a hot day. Pull the head on that side and look for signs of aluminum stuck to the cylinder walls, but the head needs to come off.

Let me know if it's bad, my 140 could be made available if it's bad and you don't want to build it.
Ferm,
Thanks for the offer PM me please with the details and asking price of your 140 I may just install a new motor at this point and keep mine as a spare.
My bad spell never seem to end, Last week Trailer Stolen, I was in the ER two days later with chest pains , now blown looper !
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  #9  
Unread 05-04-2009, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nymack66 View Post
Ferm,
Thanks for the offer PM me please with the details and asking price of your 140 I may just install a new motor at this point and keep mine as a spare.
My bad spell never seem to end, Last week Trailer Stolen, I was in the ER two days later with chest pains , now blown looper !

Dang Mack...a bad spell fo sho!!......hope things turn around for you and glad you got outta the hospital standin' upright!!...
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'95 V-21/ BF 150
'84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc
'87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha



http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/MJ-hide/Iphone201205.jpg
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  #10  
Unread 05-04-2009, 12:21 PM
nymack66 nymack66 is offline
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Thanks ,
Now this Looper wants to send me right back :)
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