Looper Shutdown with a rattle noise
 

Hey guys,
I really need help now big time, I took the Boat out today all was working well, made one stop after a 1/2 hour run at 4 to 5000 RPM, it acted really weird and will not start acted like a dead battery.
Waited a few minutes and she fired right up.
Ran for another 1/2 hour trolling and WOT at times.
Around 4000 RPM when it suddenly started to die down with a loud rattling sound, I immediately shut it down.
I try to start it and its making a rattling sound like something is loose inside and it will not start, I did a compression check on the 1 and 3 cylinder both shows around 60 I am completely stump all the plugs looks ok well oiled it did not overheat since I saw it running at 140 degrees.

60 psi, that doesnt sound good, rattling on a looper probably wrist pin or ring failure. i would pull the head on that side and look for the bits and pieces that are impregnated on the piston.

Sounds like it leaned out on yeah. Like I was saying in post #2 about your plugs, that one plug REALLY concerned me from the white on it. When you say it acted like a dead battery after a hard run, that is a direct indicator of a stuck piston. Chances are you smeared it when you tried to start it and it didn't kick right off. The rattling is most likely a smeared piston skirt that is rattling against the cylinder wall. Been there, done that. 140 is hot if that is what it was cruising, an old school looper should run 140-170 at idle and IMMEDIATLEY drop to about 100-120 at 3000-4500 and bump 130 maybe 135 under WOT on a hot day. Pull the head on that side and look for signs of aluminum stuck to the cylinder walls, but the head needs to come off.

Let me know if it's bad, my 140 could be made available if it's bad and you don't want to build it.

yep as Ferm said it is shot that 60 psi is a bad sign it should be around 125 psi each

Ok I will pull the heads and see what exactly whats going on, Could it be a broken reed? Since I found lots of pre-mix oil in the Air baffle ?

A broken reed could have done the damage, but they normally window the block when they go through. Remember that a 2 stroke has 2 different compression sides to it, in front of and behind the piston. A compression test only measures in front of the piston and a broken or missing reed won't affect it unless when it broke it went through the engine and damaged the piston or cylinder. Unfortunately though your compression numbers along with the noise is a bad sign, and most likely means that boring and new pistons is in your future. You may be able to clean them with some acid and put just pistons in it, but I'm not normally that lucky. My 140 looper pops at 150-155 pounds of compression, so that should give you an idea of how far down you are. When you pull the heads look for smeared spots on the cylinder walls, that will be the aluminum from the pistons. It is possible on the looper engines though to pull the pistons out with the powerhead still on the mid.

Another source of a rattling noise could be magnets coming loose under the flywheel...but that would not explain low compression...Ferm's probably right...as usual :party:

140's didn't suffer this problem as the magnets in them are encased into the flywheel(not epoxied like the 35 amp flywheels), unless somebody installed a 35 amp V6 style charging system.

Didn't know that re the V-4s...yer right...it did happen on my V-6 :deer:

well you can still have a 140 with loose magnets, i have a pair of 140's that both have the 35 amp system and had to re-glue the magnets. never seen them on any 120 / 140 except a 25 inch motor, i've never seen them on a short shaft even though the manual says they made them.