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#1
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Just make certain to set the length on it right. If not you will DESTROY your lower unit. That shift shaft needs to be within 1 turn of the adjustment or else it will only partly engage the gear. If you hear any slippage or jumping when in gear, DO NOT RUN IT HARD! Ease it back to the ramp and find out why. This was a lesson learned the hard way for me. And start off with a 15 or 17 pitch prop. 5K+ shouldn't be an issue, but ideally on a small bore looper you want 5600-6000 with a moderate to heavy load at WOT.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#2
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Shift rod and new seals installed , bolted up like a glove , Tested in driveway hooked up to the garden hose, Verify complete shift into gears both ways spun it in gear to complete stiring up the old oil then shut her down to do a lower oil change low and behold water in the oil all milky stuff drain it and flush her dry and clean , I expected this since when I remove the old shift rod I felt the rod loose and free i knew the o ring was bad hence the proactive move in ordering one with my new shift rod.
I did not test in the lake as yet!! I did notice an increase of "driveway idle" increase from 1200 RPM to 2100 since I bolted up the new V4 gear case is this normal ? I am guessing the v4 is less torque to spin verses the v6 gear case that was remove? Note the original 1200 rpm is driveway idle not in water it drops to approximately to 900 RPM shifted fine. I am wondering if I drop it into the lake if the idle will drop to an acceptable rpm for shifting or should I plan on adjusting the RPM down ? |
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