Va Beach v20 project

[Kracker Jack]

Well here she is fellas!!!! after spending the last 10 years in a cow pasture she finally has a future. This boat I found out started life as step lift. The cap was cut off and cuddy and 10 inch cap was put in its place.The floor is rotted and the transom is also gonna be replaced.I will still have that odd recess in the floor were the step down to the cuddy used to be. If anyone has any pictures of floor configuration from a conversion such as this please post some pics. feel free to give me all the input you think i need. thanks guys!!

[Destroyer]

I resized the pictures and they came out to small but when they are regular size then they are to big to load.

Make an account on photobucket, then upload your pics to there, then insert them in your post as an [img] file and they will display nicely.
It will look something like this:

Example [img] my file [img]

[RWilson2526]

yea what Destroyer said....I'm really wanting to see what it looks like.

[RidgeRunner]

Don't worry about the pictures your signature picture is enough for me. You still have the Albermarle? Working on a project 20v. You have the sickness.. LOL:clap::beer:

[Destroyer]

Nice pics.. if you roll over any of your pics on photobucket you'll see a pop up window with several different formats for displaying the pics.. The one on the bottom is the format. click on it and it will be copied... then just paste it in your post here and it will display ... like this:

[IMG]http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL8.jpg

[Kracker Jack]

This boat has the original motor that came with the boat at least it seems that way.both boat and motor are 74's. its so funny to see a 135 hp that has a manual trim for the motor. Meaning there is no trim. You unlock the motor and drop it down to the choosen pin height. and it then has a helper type shocks that assists you to lift the motor back up to transport or store. Now thats what I consider old school. my old 25hp on my skiff and my 40 hp evinrude is set up like this, just have never seen it on a motor this size. I might keep it like that and just use that gimble bracket for my other 135hp that im gonna repower it with. I think it would be old school and make it seem like a classic. I also have a used only in freshwater seadrive bracket that a few guys on here have kinda talked my out of using (maybe). I want this boat set up light and simple kinda work boat style. This boat will mosly be used in shore striper, cheasapeake light, cheasapeake baybridge tunnel. with a total of six rods 1 cooler and 2 guys and a live well running the original dual 20 gallon saddle tanks, is a 135hp rude feasible power for this light load rate? Thanks everyone for all the help so far you are a great bunch of guys. I have the boat stripped now of consol, tanks and bench style seat and the old motor. I have a few questions for demoing the floor. question #1 Should i set my saw blade depth to barely cut out the ply wood but keeping the bottom skin and then laminate my new ply wood to the existing botom skin waterproofing my under side of my new floor? Or should i remove top skin,core and bottom skin and then glass the bottom of my new deck plywood and adhere it to the stringers then glass the top of the floor? the reason im asking is a boat guy told me that keeping the bottom skin them laminating new core to it is a method that can be used he said you just kinda scoop it out then roll out your resin to prepped bottom skin and roll resin on your precut core material then screw it to your stringers and put a bunch of bundles of shingle on top of the plywood to weigh the floor down till resin kicks. Also maybe a tip to some guys im sure its been done before but i came up with a easy way to get a rough template for your transom. I screwed my full sheet acx plywood to the out side of my transom today and pulled the plywood up tight to the transom with 3inch screws then just traced the template to the configuration of the outside of the boat. its gonna be a little big but i can fine tune it from there with a jig saw. Atleast you get your template close and saves a bunch of time measuring, Just an idea. I also went and bought a new digital camera today beacuse i will document ever step of this project because this will be my first project of this extent and want to help to show people that if they take there time and do there research that they also can rework there own boat. I will start demo this weekend so get ready for the pictures!!!

[RWilson2526]

Good luck with the rebuild...you have your work cut out for you. Interesting thought leaving the bottom skin of the floor. Never heard or seen that but that doesnt mean much. The one drawback I could see is that as long as you are going through all this work I would think you would want to get a look under that floor for any fixes that might need to be done down there. With the bottom floor skin that wont be possible....

[reelapeelin]

Great project, Kracker!!..gonna be a nice one when yer finished...glad to hear you got a new digital camera to document the progress and all the hard work ahead...:clap:...when you get it, set it on a low pixel setting, best for downloading for use on forums, emails and the like...

[Kracker Jack]

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/well5.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/well11.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/well5.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/well1.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/well3.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/well.jpg

[Kracker Jack]

Here are some better pics. PO did a real dosey on her!!!!! terrible terrible terrible!!!! good intentions with the wrong applications. Will start demo this weekend. He used mostly resin and hardly any cloth the demo is gonna be a cinch. Any hints or tips to help me out is welcome. like places to cut floor?

[Kracker Jack]

new pics loaded up at the end of page 1

[reelapeelin]

Kracker...was that boat converted from a cuddy???...the well in the front...I don't recall seeing that in a CC whereas it is in all the cuddys of that vintage...and the tops of the gunwales are flatter and much wider than standard CCs...I like it...gives the boat a real updated look and should be very functional one you're fishing her...
Are you gonna stay w/that motor?...I hate to add to an already full To-Do list, but rebuilding that transom as a 25"er rather than the 20"er it is now would pay off big in the future...if staying w/that motor, of course it would mean finding a 25" mid section, but IMO it'd be worth it...
Most floors I've seen removed are cut along the outside edge...is there a fuel tank under there?...

[RWilson2526]

This boat I found out started life as step lift. The cap was cut off and cuddy and 10 inch cap was put in its place.!!


Pay attention you old geezer.

[draglink]

This is a very cool project! The cap makes it look like a custom Carolina boat

[Kracker Jack]

The caps added really give it that carolina look. but the idiot po used half inch ply instead of 3/4 ply. im gonna laminate with 3/4 over existing, is that to much weight? or should i just laminate over existing 1/2 inch with 1/2 ? she also runs twin 20 gallon rear saddle tanks, is that gonna be an issue with weight in the rear? i am gonna make it a 25 inch transom. what kind of mods. do i have to do to my lower unit besides the spacer? shaft extension?how cost is in the lower unit extension?

[Blue_Runner]

I've got a much better idea. Just trade me that Albe even Steven for my V21 and save yourself some time. It should fit nicely in my garage.

Sorry, I'm not much help with your quesitons but had to get that off my chest.

Best of luck with your project.

[Kracker Jack]

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/MOTOR.jpg Here is my power plant. A 1979 135 that has very very very very low hours. I am only the third owner of this motor, my dad was the second owner and a good friend of my dad was the first owner. My dads friend david never used this motor at all, as been decribed to me by david is that he only ran this motor 40 or 50 times. my dad owned it for 5 years and used it 4 times. I have owned it for 4 years and can say i have only used it 20 to 30 times. do the math fellas!!! how many hours are truelly on this 79' ? I painted it 3 years ago yamaha blue because i had some spray cans left over from painting my 200 yamy on my seaox.The seadrive bracket you see this motor on has only been run in fresh water since 1985. my question is should i use the bracket? should i make it 25 inch transom and find a gimble bracket with power trim tilt? or should i keep her old old school and put her on the gimble bracket that has the manual tilt? I want simple!!! i want functional!!! this motor is running 132lbs. on all cylinders. give me some advice fellas.

[reelapeelin]

It would be nice to do away w/all the weight of the original bracket if you can...and you can lengthen the shaft two ways...find a spacer or a longer mid-section...either way will get the job done...:clap:

[Kracker Jack]

so no bracket. and build the transom to a 25 inch transom? Sounds like a winner to me. I was kinda pushing away from the bracket. I can use it to sell and fund more of my project!!or use it to sell and fund the cost of the mid section.

[Kracker Jack]

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL23.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL22.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL21.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL20.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL18.jpg

Demo went good today,only took me an hour to demo the floor circular saw really does a dosey on the floor and makes it it a cinch to remove, just set the depth and start cutting. As you can see in the pics I cut the floor up to the step and recess which used to be the entrance to the cuddy. What my plans are for that is to glass the step up flush and make it a storage with a drain hole with a removable hatch. I kept the other fish boxes so i can prep them and use them when I set up my new floor and glass them in. I can tell that this build is gonna be a blast!!!!! All comments and recommendations are welcome.

[reelapeelin]

Nice work, Kracker...lookin' good...can't wait to see to progress on this...:clap:

[Kracker Jack]

http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL27.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL25.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL26.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL24.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL29.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm75/sandbridgeco/V20%20VABEACH/WELL30.jpg[IMG]


Well I removed the old transom today.And started prepping it for replacement. I highly recommend anyone doing this kind of job to purchase the sanding disc like the one I have on my grinder, I t makes quick work for prepping the transom. I have some questions for you guys, Should I lay up some mat on the transom before i laminate the first piece of ply ? should I just roll the resin on factory skin and then laminate? Or should I thicken resin then trowel on and then laminate? I have read that all methods have been used, Im just looking for the strongest.

[Kracker Jack]

Is there anyway I can move this thread over to the repair section? or is it ok to keep posting here?

[reelapeelin]

Is there anyway I can move this thread over to the repair section? or is it ok to keep posting here?


For my money you can leave it right here...this is GREAT!!...if this work ain't on point,I don't know what is...

Keep it up!!...gonna be fun to watch...:clap:

If I can make another suggestion...my old '74 had the single drain hole centered in the splashwell as yours does...while you are about making improvements, you might think about closing that up and putting two drain holes to each side of the motor...the 1st motor I had on that boat blocked that center location and was a constant PIA...that was the subject of my 1st post here in 2003...MacoJoe jumped my a$$ and said JUST DO IT!!...

[Kracker Jack]

no wonder transoms rot out in these rascals so soon if there not done right, the bilge holds water 3 or so inches deep and can not drain. so should I keep it the same height as the sump box, or should i drop the height a little so that it drains more efficiently?

[RidgeRunner]

I found putty next to the factory skin on my 1983. I did the putty and transom clamps on mine. I used matt on hatches where the skin was laid out on a work table and the core and skin were perfectly flat and it worked great. The transom is anything but flat on the Wellcraft so putty is easier IMO. Both ways will work. Laying glass in the corners of the transom where you still have a little of the inner skin (due to the floor being in the way and such) will prove very difficult. Putty could be easily troweled into tough spots, fabric can be used to laminate the plywood together for the core. I made a three piece transom out of core material because my transom had such a curvature. The wings were laid first and the overlapping center core was clamped in place last. Putty was oozing out around the perimiter everywhere. Put the gloves on and wiped the excess with my finger (like it was caulk) to form a radius on all the transitions (filleting). After it kicked it made laying the inside skin a breeze. I did the same across the top of the core because I made the 83 a full transom where the core stopped a few inches from the top of the transom. You need to add quality fiberglass to the places you intend to extend the transom height. Fairly critical because you are going to be hanging the motor from that area.
Single scarf ========\ \________________/ /===============

BEST Double scarf ======> >=============< <==============
Double scarf requires work inside the hull before adding core.

Google scarf joint for a better visual. The stringers look gone at the stern, what about the rest of them?

[Kracker Jack]

Im replacing the stringers also. they have been removed and are being set up as we speak

[RidgeRunner]

You are fast. Looks like destruction and prep are not a problem for you. Great thread. Great pictures.

[reelapeelin]

no wonder transoms rot out in these rascals so soon if there not done right, the bilge holds water 3 or so inches deep and can not drain. so should I keep it the same height as the sump box, or should i drop the height a little so that it drains more efficiently?


The only hole I see in the pics is the drain hole for the SPLASHWELL...on second look, I don't even see a bilge drain hole...that should be no more than an inch or less above bottom of bilge...

Is pouring w/Arjay a consideration on the stringers?...not an encouragement to go so, just a question...

[Kracker Jack]

I plan on putting in a bildge drain plug. do i need a splash well plug? im doing a traditional stringer system. ridge i guess im gonna cut the sides back and then glass them in when i do my progresive lap around the sides.

[reelapeelin]

do i need a splash well plug?

Well that kind of what I've been tryin' to say...that hole is the splashwell drain...water gets in and has to drain back out...except it's blocked by the motor bracket and doesn't work well...needs one on each side of the motor...no, ya don't wanna plug 'em


I don't see a bilge drain hole in your pics...should be in center about 1"or so from bottom of bilge...

[Kracker Jack]

Ordered 18 yards of 1708,4 gallons of polyester resin from a friends uncle in moyock,nc yesterday. just been doing a bunch prep work. Do I need to grind back all the gellcoat were my tie in points are gonna be? Thats alot of grinding and sanding. I guess my question is can you glass over roughed up gel coat? or does all of it have to come off? I read on other forums that glassing over gelcoat will depreciate the strength of the bond to the surface.

[Kracker Jack]

The word of today is "ITCHY"!!!!!! More prep work today. I read these post over and over and the phrase that sticks in my head is "prep work is key to a sucessfull project" I have decided to go with a 25" transom and im buying a spacer for my 20" lower end. my old lady bought me a seperate clothes hamper for my boat working clothes, she went to work the other morning itching her butt off after washing her clothes with some that i worked on the boat with. LOL!!!!! SHE WAS BENT!!! Will post some pics of my work today later

[Destroyer]

The word of today is "ITCHY"!!!!!! More prep work today. I read these post over and over and the phrase that sticks in my head is "prep work is key to a sucessfull project" I have decided to go with a 25" transom and im buying a spacer for my 20" lower end. my old lady bought me a seperate clothes hamper for my boat working clothes, she went to work the other morning itching her butt off after washing her clothes with some that i worked on the boat with. LOL!!!!! SHE WAS BENT!!! Will post some pics of my work today later

One word... Tyvec. Buy yourself some Tyvec work suits. They are disposable jumpsuits that cover all your clothes and keep the glass dust off of you. They are cheap priced compared to a bent wife. (Hell, anything is cheap compared to a bent wife) They cost about $4 each, less in bulk. But seriously they really are good protection, especially when doing glass work. Just wear them, then use them again if still good, or just throw them away... end of problem.

[Kracker Jack]

More transom prep. Is it ok to add some 1708 to the inside of the skin on the transom to thicken the skin before i glue my first sheet of ply? I had to grind a good bit of "dry" unsaturated chop strand to get down to a good surface for adhesion purposes. I have read the factory thickness of the outer skin should be about a 3/16 to a 1/4 of an inch.

[Kracker Jack]

I have 2 tyvec suits in the garage and didnt even think about them. I used them to paint my motorcycle frame. Thats perfect destroyer!!! mine even have hoods to keep that crap off my neck!!!

[spareparts]

rub your arms and neck down heavy with baby powder before you start grinding, I don't know what it does, but it sure prevents itching from glass

[chart]

when i work with glass i use a barrier cream then dust with baby powder tyvek is wonderful also, when finished wash with cold water.

[Destroyer]

rub your arms and neck down heavy with baby powder before you start grinding, I don't know what it does, but it sure prevents itching from glass

When you work your pores open to allow your skin to sweat and cool your body. The glass fibers get into them and cause the itch. Baby powder fills your pores. It prevents the majority of the glass particles from getting caught in them, which in turn prevents you from itching.

(Long, long ago, I worked as an insulation installer and had that explained to me by a "veteran" installer. I quit that job after a month...):head:

[Kracker Jack]

Ok so im ready to build my transom. I have searched and searched and read thread after thread about a lay up schedule for my transom. Can someone please talk me into a schedule for glass and resin for my outboard 25" transom. I have read so many different ways of tackling this transom and what kind of glass and what ounce to use. Im using polyester and im looking to do either a old school layup or use a new school layup with 1708. I want simple and functional. guys thank you so much in advanced.

[Kracker Jack]

This is the view of my boat I had to look at all day 54 degrees outside and rainy on my day off. What crock of crap!!!!!!I guess im just gonna have to pull her over to my dads and put her in the shop for the winter so i can keep her dry and leaf free.

[Kracker Jack]

repairing some holes in the console cut my ply to fit then glued the in with a resin woodflour mix. They tightened up solid as a rock.


Here is the transom configuration im gonna go with. I realize you all want me to put a 25" transom on this boat, I just can't afford to buy a new 25" inch motor when i have 2 perfectly running 135hp's. So to get the best of both worlds I'm gonna set my transom up like this with a 20" inch transom and then glass in a sump well with a wall kinda like this. Any opinions?

[Destroyer]

repairing some holes in the console cut my ply to fit then glued the in with a resin woodflour mix. They tightened up solid as a rock.


Here is the transom configuration im gonna go with. I realize you all want me to put a 25" transom on this boat, I just can't afford to buy a new 25" inch motor when i have 2 perfectly running 135hp's. So to get the best of both worlds I'm gonna set my transom up like this with a 20" inch transom and then glass in a sump well with a wall kinda like this. Any opinions?

No opinion on the transom..(I just don't know enough to make an intelligent comment).. But that's a really nice repair job on the console!!! :clap:

[Kracker Jack]

So to tie my sole to the existing liner I made some ledgers or blocks to glue to the hull. I also did alot of gelcoat removal today(what a pain in the a$$!!!!!)Any advice from this point on is welcome.

[RidgeRunner]

Grinding job looks Fantastic.. Console looks good too. Stringers have to go in before the sole. :hi: Advice takes all forms.. You got a lot of glassing to do. Transom, Stringers then sole. I like the idea of a nice splashwell on 20" transoms. The factory thought so too. Your V should sit high in the water with the 135 so no big deal.
Layup schedule for the transom. You have the plywood if I remember correctly. Make a pattern out of cardboard or whatever, cut the plywood out and dry fit. Rough up the plywood then laminate the plywood together to get the thickness desired using 2 layers of CSM in between pieces and weight down until dry. Trim the edges and then putty or glass the plywood in place. I found a fiberglass shop that allowed me use of their transom clamps. Another way to hold it together is to clamp where you can and drill through the outside of the transom and use screws to pull the core tight against the outer skin where normal clamps won't reach. Remove and fill the screw holes after dry. There will also be the original mounting holes for the motor. You can find some long bolts, fit the core exactly where it needs to be, drill the bolt holes in the core using the factory holes as a pattern and then use a piece of scrap 1x4 or 2x4 on the inside to squeeze the core against the outer skin. You may end up with a combination of all of the above and/or more. If you use putty try and wipe up excess and/or use putty to fillet the edges and transitions. Once the transom kicks and you remove the clamps you can grind the edges reinforce the perimeter (sides and bottom) with one layer of medium weight 8" or 10" wide tape and one layer of 1708, wet on wet and allow the 1708 to overlap the sides by 6-8". Heavier layups are OK but I would try to incorporate some transom knees when I was making up the stringers. Wherever the stringers touch the transom and inside hull bottom in the back will need to be lightly ground again to facilitate glassing but only at those attachment points and 12" on either side.
The sole and stringers: Need to figure from the topside down to get the correct stringer/sole height. Run some string from the freshly ground floor port to stbd. then make the stringers short of that by the thickness of the core you are using in the floor and don't forget to reduce the height of the stringers by the anticipated thickness of the glass on top of the stringers and bottom of floor if you plan to glass that too. ie, floor core thickness 3/4" + glass on top of stringers 1/8" + glass on floor bottom 1/16" + fudge factor of 1/16" to 1/8" = Stringer height 1 1/16" below your strings from stem to stern. Easier to build up a stringer than to take one down so the fudge factor. Wellcraft attached my liner to the top of the stringers with fiberglass putty. If you go the same route the sole should lay real close to flush with the top of your floor so you can glass the top of your floor and your sole to your existing side pieces in one visit. Where is Skool and the glassmen. I want another opinion. LOL.

[Kracker Jack]

Out of all the glass guys on here I was expecting SKooLS to respond! Lol! He seems like he is.very knowledgible on this subject. My knee boards are gonna be incoporated on my strigers at the transom to also incorporate my motor well . I'm also gonna use one of my large fish boxes that I salvaged out of my existing floor to make a new sump well at the transom. Ridge thanks for all the help I'm comfortable applying the material but I'm just not sure what material is best suitable at some stages. Once again thanks to everyone for the help.

[Kracker Jack]

well today is the day that I install and glass my new transom!!!!!! Im sitting here drinking some coffe waiting for the temp to come up, Its suppose to be 65 here in va beach today. I will take plenty of pictures and document all stages. im gonna be using the allthread method drilling holes through the outer skin and through the core and tighten them down to clamp core and glue them together at once. and a thickened resin between core layer and outer skin and core with a 1/4 inch knotch trowel to distribute thickened resin on the surfaces. Wish me luck fellas!!!!:beer:

[Destroyer]

well today is the day that I install and glass my new transom!!!!!! Im sitting here drinking some coffe waiting for the temp to come up, Its suppose to be 65 here in va beach today. I will take plenty of pictures and document all stages. im gonna be using the allthread method drilling holes through the outer skin and through the core and tighten them down to clamp core and glue them together at once. and a thickened resin between core layer and outer skin and core with a 1/4 inch knotch trowel to distribute thickened resin on the surfaces. Wish me luck fellas!!!!:beer:

Sometimes we make our own luck. Sounds to my like you have this one covered already without any luck involved. Just take your time and you'll be fine. Remember to have your wife take pics of you and the transom. That way you don't get resin on the camera. :head:

[Kracker Jack]

everything went awesome today!!!! I am an amatuer at this and if i have any word of advice to someone who is replacing the transom or the sole in a boat is to build the project in your head over and over before you start!!! make sure all needed materials are close and ready at hand. It makes everything go so much easier. My transom core install today went perfect. Pictures will be up soon.:sun:

[Kracker Jack]

I did some other stuff today. After glueing and plugging my holes for my console I laid a single layer of 1.5 CSM over the plugs and then faired with 3M premium. I also rebuilt a corner of my console that was cracked.

[Kracker Jack]

Well I clamped her in every spot I could!!!!! I only did one layer of ply because I wanted to do it one layer at a time and did'nt want my my work to get ahead of me. Im going to soak dowl rod with resin and then run the dowls rods through my clamping holes when the laminating is complete. I cut relief cuts in my plywood in 4 spots to allow the ply to conform to the outer skin I then filled the relief cut with thickened resin. I am very happy with the way the first piece turned out. Im going to clean out one of the garage bays at my dads friday so i can pull the boat in there saturday ITS GONNA GET COLD!!!!!

[mike77v20]

good work i need to do the same thing excect on an inboard and the floor from 1foot in front of the motor cover back this post helped alot

[reelapeelin]

Kracker...could you use an apprentice??...you're doin' the kind of stuff I'd like to learn...wish you were closer...looks fun!!...nice work...:clap:

[Kracker Jack]

[QUOTE=mike77v20;182960]good work i need to do the same thing excect on an inboard and the floor from 1foot in front of the motor cover back this post helped alot[/

Mike where in Chesapeake do you live? Have you started your repair yet?

[Kracker Jack]

REEL Im just as new at this as anybody. I have done alot of research. And of course I fell upon this really awesome website called WELLCRAFTV20.COM!!!!!!!!!!!! that has helped out ALOT!!!! I would'nt have the motivation if it were'nt for this site and all you V lovers on here.

[Kracker Jack]

Well I set the second layer of core yesterday here are some pictures. Of me prepping and of install.

[Kracker Jack]

more pics.

[smokeonthewater]

yeah but what are you gonna do if you ever need a ladder for something?:nut:


LOL.... looking good

[Kracker Jack]

OHHH Im not lacking in the walkboard and ladder department!!! lol!!!

[RidgeRunner]

Nice work. Lots of quality grinding to get where you are now. I really like the way your planning on glassing the top of the transom. Clean too. First time? You are a natural.

[Kracker Jack]

Well guys the temp is gonna be 65 degrees tomorrow so I will be taking half the day off from work and glassing my inner skin. Im sure there will be a beer or two drank also.:beer:

[Kracker Jack]

Gettn her done!!!!!

[Kracker Jack]

Babysitting a transom tonight!!!!!!! Temps dropped down to 44 degrees tonight with rain following soon!!!! I put halogens on it and a tarp, cross your fingers!!

[carson398]

we will be in va beach late sunday till tuesday I will txt u or call would like to stop by monday night. talk to you later

[Kracker Jack]

Sounds good dude!! I will have a cold beer waiting for ya!!!

[Kracker Jack]

Today I will be setting up the stringers. Im now at what I like to consider the fun part!!!! That transom yesterday wetting out 2 20"x17" motor or "bolt" patches under 2 layers of 1708 about whooped my @$$!!!! The layup came out clear with no bubbles so Im very proud of myself. The bubble buster came in handy and is definetly need when doing work like this. This boat is really starting to take shape and Im not lacking in motivation!!!!!

[mike77v20]

looking good i have mine all the way apart taking top off tomorrow and begin demolition i have pics just trying to figure out how to get them from my phone straight to here

[Kracker Jack]

:head:I take pics with my phone and then send them to my email. After they show up on my email I then download them to my computer. After that i go to my thread and open up the comment or reply to thread window. Then click on that paper clip icon on the tool bar next to the smiley face. your picture download window will then open. Click browes and your commputer options for pictures window will open double click your picture of choice.click up load on your picture download window and your done.

Did I explain that right

[mike77v20]

sounds good can i put up multiple pics

[Kracker Jack]

Here are some pics from yesterday. I set the stringers up yesterday and glued them today. Notice on my inner skin on my transom the dark color glass in the middle where the motor mounts, thats because a guy off the HULL TRUTH recomended me to put that 2 layer of 1708 patch there for load purposes. I still have one more layer of 1708 to put on the transom but im gonna wait till I glass the stringers to the transom first so the last layer of 1708 kinda locks the stringer tabs in. The last picture is of the resin soaked dowels I put through my all-thread holes that I used to clamp my plywood. My next step is to glue and screw my stringer cleats on then glass in my stringers!!!!! fun fun fun!!!

[mike77v20]

on your old stringers were they straight to the outer shell mine were an a sixteenth to an eighth off the shell so far im stuck on what to do about the two boxes and getting them out:clap:looking good :beer:

[Kracker Jack]

Pic of bedded and glued stringers, And pic of cap getting prepped for lamination of 3/4 inch ply on top of existing 1/2 inch. I want to beef up the cap a little more.

[kamikaze]

Kracker:

Can't see in your lastest pics, but I assume you have weep holes aft to allow and water to drain the the garboard plug? It also looks like your center stringer aft 90 is solid. You might want to notch the corner so water can drain from either side "JUST IN CASE"

Keep up the good work!

Kamikaze

[Kracker Jack]

Kamikaze I forgot to cut my 1/4 circles in my main at the transom. I glued them down and 20 minutes later I had a ahh **** moment!!!! I'm gonna end up cutting them with my rotoo zip tool on Thursday then glass a small strip of 1.5 csm on under edge to water proof. Thanks for looking out.

[Kracker Jack]

This question is for all you structual guys on here. I was thinking about returning my glass over my cap and tie it into the outside hull down the side about 2 or 3 inches. Is this a wise move? there is a reason why factory did not glass the insert or cap or guwals to the side of the boat. I personally think if I glass the cap in this manner to the side of the boat it will be a constant flex and crack issue ultimately leading to an astetic eye sore . Any opinions would be awesome. As you can see in the picture my cap is made of wood which Im gonna laminate a nother piece of 3/4 acx to to beef it up. Im then going to band the inside edge and outside edge with 3/8 acx router all edges and then glass with 2 layers of 1.5 csm. would this be a proper schedule for this application or should I go with one layer of 1708?

[mike77v20]

ok i see mine is made a lil diff i have no cap unless it rotted away and how do i get the fish boxes out without messing up my step into cuddy to lhe left is the step down and middle is the box and far right is the other box

[Kracker Jack]

im gonna move this over to your thread look there for my idea on box removal.

[Kracker Jack]

ok i see mine is made a lil diff i have no cap unless it rotted away and how do i get the fish boxes out without messing up my step into cuddy to lhe left is the step down and middle is the box and far right is the other box
you have no cap like this one. this one was hand made and built

[mike77v20]

no i have a big glass one that just gets screwed to the hull i have to replce the plywood in it to its rotten in the back and over the cuuddythis boat was just not well maintained and they just screwed whatever they wanted to where ever they wanted to and i went and joined the hull truth to get some more info

[bradford]

Lookin' good Kracker Jack! great thread, very informative Thanks!

[Kracker Jack]

I have relocated the boat to my dads house, He has a very big shop that I can store it in until I get the stringers glassed in and sole glassed in also. I have some pics of the stringer cleats that i glued and screwed yesterday. I will be ready to glass the stringers in Saturday after I finish prep work on friday.

[Kracker Jack]

I glued my stringer cleats on yesterday. and glassed in my main stringers today with one layer of 1708. the picture with the scrap 3/4 ply shows that i allowed some fudge room for the CSM that im gonna wrap the top of the stringers with and the glue for glueing down the sole.I also tabbed my stringers in before I put my last layer of 1708 on the transom, I kinda thought it would lock the stringers into the transom a little better.

[bradford]

Great job, thanks for the pics!

[RidgeRunner]

WOW. I been busy and missed the progress. Excellent work. Looks strong as a tank. I often wondered about glassing the cap to the hull. Never tried that one. I have seen a few go fasts with no rub rail and a bunch of boats that have the liner glassed to the hull at the transom and gel coated from the factory with no issues. You are moving along. I hear you about the bubble popper rollers. You are neater at glassing than I ever was. I always say your not having fun glassing until you spend a few uninterrupted hours down in the hull sniffing VE Resin. Keep it up. :clap:

[reelapeelin]

I've been in top-tier boat factories that weren't that well done!!!...NICE WORK!!...that'll not be your typical V20 once you're done...BEEFY V!!...


And your choice of shops to work on it...man I gotta hand it to ya!!...right beside the BEER FRIDGE!!...GENIUS!!...:clap:...You da MAN!!...:beer:

[Kracker Jack]

fellas thank you for the words of encouragement. I have to admit she is gonna be battle ready!!!! I have made sure that I have taken plenty of pictures because if werent for people like you guys on V20.COM and on other forums that take plenty of pics and documented there builds I wouldnt be doing this.Im gonna stay away from glassing the cap to the hull, there is way to much flex there and im sure its gonna turn out looking like poop after 5 or 6 monthes of fishing because it cracking. she is coming together and my splash time should be around late spring to early summer. Im waiting for one of you guys to sell me a cheap t-top for this rig!!! LOL!!! I will keep the pictures coming!!!

[Kracker Jack]

Waiting for this cold front to get out of here!!! Im gonna be glass the top of my stringers with 2 layers of 1.5 CSM on friday to simply encapsulate the top of the stringer. After that Im gonna fab up my chase pipe for my electronics and teleflex. still not quite sure how im gonna set that up with out it looking like crap. Any ideas or pics of your chase pipes would be great!!:beer:

[Kracker Jack]

The stringers are finally done and my last layer of 1708 is on the transom. All i have to do is put some thickened resin in the stringer drain holes then drill the holes 1 inch( I over drilled the holes 1 1/2 inch) to allow for a solid ring of glass around the drains to protect the raw wood. I also drilled my garboard plug a 1 1/2 and then used thickened resin reinforced with some chopped glass to fill the hole back and then drilled it 1 inch. A little more prep and then im ready for the sole. What should I do to water proof the bottom side of my 3/4 inch ply for my sole? 1 layer of csm?or should I just simply hotcoat it?

[bradford]

I'm no expert, but I might leave the stringer drain holes 1 1/2". Might help keep them from getting blocked and water pooling against the stringer.

[Kracker Jack]

Bradford thats a good call. I will do that. I will just finger some thickened resin in there to cover raw wood. and then kinda touch it up with a dremel for easier flow.

[Kracker Jack]

Re-attached my liner pieces today with thickened resin.and also cut and prepped one of my old fish boxes that I removed from the floor as my new splash well. Just basicly did some prep for the sole today. I cant wait to get this floor in.:sun:

[Kracker Jack]

Removed the old cap yesterday. Im gonna build the cap up from scratch.

[reelapeelin]

Looks like yer gonna take the floor all the way back to the tranny...will the floor have some "fall" to it to drain into the well...and I'm thinkin' the well will be complete w/pump(s) and drain-grate so nobody steps off into it in the heat of battle that's surely gonna erupt...:sun:...like the use of the partial floor hatch liner....:clap:

[Kracker Jack]

REEL yes I will have one bilge pump in the motor "splash" well and one below deck. The reason I even used the the fish box liner instead of the old motor well was because the fish box liner has the 3/4 inch recessed lip on it so I can drop in the drain grate made from teak to keep the boys from busting there butt in that hole. Im also going to have 2 ball scuppers at deck level on port and starboard.The floor has factory grade to the rear seeing how the stringers i installed are factory height.

[reelapeelin]

Im also going to have 2 ball scuppers at deck level on port and starboard.The floor has factory grade to the rear seeing how the stringers i installed are factory height.


I had a '74 for 11 years...and your plan worries me a bit...the 70s models had floors set AT water level....later when Wellcraft went to a self draining floor deck, it was RAISED above water level to accomplish that function...if you install scuppers AT water level, even the ball type, will you have the draining capability you're looking for?

[Kracker Jack]

My plan was to not install the scuppers till i splash it and find out floor height ( BUT IT WAS IN THE DRAIN PLANS) LOL!!. My dad had scuppers on his, but his was a 84'

[reelapeelin]

My plan was to not install the scuppers till i splash it and find out floor height ( BUT IT WAS IN THE DRAIN PLANS) LOL!!. My dad had scuppers on his, but his was a 84'


That's why I brought it up as a concern...your dad's '84 was AFTER Wellcraft raised the floor and heightened the cap to make self-draining and put the fuel tank under the floor...good luck w/it and w/your skills, I'm confident if you install scuppers in wrong place, you can always reposition them...:clap:

[Kracker Jack]

Well today due to the holiday I was able to rough in my sole and also cut the hole for my splash "sump well". I recessed the rough opening on the sump liner hole so I can glue in my fabricated splash well and glass over the lip flush with the my glass for my sole.

[bradford]

She's gonna be sweet!

[Curapa]

Looking good brother!

[mike77v20]

looking good keep up the good work and if i may ask what are scuppers i am still grinding getting closer to being done though

[Kracker Jack]

Mike a scupper works as a one way type valve allowing water out of the boat through a transom hole but a flapper on the outside does not allow water to come back inside the boat. search scupper on google

[Destroyer]

As Kracker Jack stated above, a scupper is nothing more than a way to let water out of the boat automatically....it can be a hole or a channel. On most small boats it's a hole, and on large boats it's a channel. A check valve, which can be simply a flapper at the end of the hole or a more complicated ball assembly inside the hole keeps the water from coming back in. :beer:

[Orlando]

guy i work with has a two ball scuppers mounted in the bilge through the transom. he has plugs that fit so he can plug them off if needed, but he says that if he takes a wave any water in the boat gets sucked out when he is moving by the prop. kinda neat idea just not sure how well it would work and not sure i like the idea of any hole in the boat bieng below the water line

[Kracker Jack]

guy i work with has a two ball scuppers mounted in the bilge through the transom. he has plugs that fit so he can plug them off if needed, but he says that if he takes a wave any water in the boat gets sucked out when he is moving by the prop. kinda neat idea just not sure how well it would work and not sure i like the idea of any hole in the boat bieng below the water line

We have always put our plugs on the inside of the bilge on our garboard drain. This would allow us to pull the plug from the inside when we on plane to allow water to drain out. One hole below the water line is good enough for me!!! LOL!!

[Kracker Jack]

I will be glassing the bottom of my sole tomorrow with a single layer of 1.5 ounce CSM. And of course pictures will follow. I will also be setting up and installing my tele-flex and controls chase pipe from my console to my transom.

[Destroyer]

We have always put our plugs on the inside of the bilge on our garboard drain. This would allow us to pull the plug from the inside when we on plane to allow water to drain out. One hole below the water line is good enough for me!!! LOL!!

When I used to have 15' Steury that's always how we drained the bilge.
Come up on plane and pull the plug.. the water drains out really quickly, and then you simply put the plug back in. Never even heard of putting a plug on the outside of the hull till I moved up in size to my first V20 :head:

[Curapa]

I have had my fair share of leaning over the transom and pulling the plug from the outside to drain water. It's not easy when on plane!

[Orlando]

i have an 1100gph bilge pump,backed up by a 750 gph pump. i put plugs in both sides of the drain, because my boat doesnt have a threaded plug and i want to be damn sure they stay put

[Orlando]

If you need an extra set of hands on setting the motor or anything like that kracker let me know, i live off of rosemont and can lend a quick hand if needed from time to time.

[Kracker Jack]

If you need an extra set of hands on setting the motor or anything like that kracker let me know, i live off of rosemont and can lend a quick hand if needed from time to time.

I appreciate the offer. My dad has a forklift so hanging the motor is going to be cinch. Thank you. My mom and dads place is off Sandbridge Rd (thats where the boat is for now), by MARGIE AND RAYS seafood restraunt. come check out the build when ever you want I will be there all day tomorrow.

[Kracker Jack]

Here are some pictures from today. The chase tube fabrication went very smooth. I didnt exactly like drilling a hole through a newly replaced stringer but i'll get over it. The hole drilled through the sringer was drilled slightly larger to allow thickened resin to bed the tube and seal the raw wood. I also took some more pictures with the console in to show my setup.

[Kracker Jack]

So here is my new choice of power for my v20!!! what do you guys think? Should I keep the 2 hp on my v20 or put it back on my flat back canoe? LOL!!!

[mike77v20]

thanks on the scupper info is that an open invite on stopping by and checking out the boat

[Kracker Jack]

thanks on the scupper info is that an open invite on stopping by and checking out the boat

Mike come by tomorrow. I will pm you my cell number.

[awthacker]

I increased the diameter of the two drains on my splashwell and added the one-way scuppers. After one trip, I decided to remove the rubber flaps because they seemed to impede the draining process. When I'm anchored, water runs in and out of my splashwell, but it doesn't seem to cause any problems. With a 20" transom, the water is gonna get in there regardless, and I'd rather have it drain quickly than trickle through the flapper valve. This was the best pic I could find of it.

[Kracker Jack]

I increased the diameter of the two drains on my splashwell and added the one-way scuppers. After one trip, I decided to remove the rubber flaps because they seemed to impede the draining process. When I'm anchored, water runs in and out of my splashwell, but it doesn't seem to cause any problems. With a 20" transom, the water is gonna get in there regardless, and I'd rather have it drain quickly than trickle through the flapper valve. This was the best pic I could find of it.

I cant seem to quit make out that picture. I see the transom ladder and what looks to be like a plastic bottle of some sort?

[smokeonthewater]

click on the pic...... it's a drill with a holesaw

[Kracker Jack]

I see it now thanks SMOKE

[kamikaze]

Kracker:

I recommend you dry your rigging thru that chase before you mount the deck. It looks relatively small in the pics with several 90 degree corners that may makes rigging a real pain. Especially if your going to use mechanical steering!

Keep up the good work.

Kamikaze

[Kracker Jack]

Kracker:

I recommend you dry your rigging thru that chase before you mount the deck. It looks relatively small in the pics with several 90 degree corners that may makes rigging a real pain. Especially if your going to use mechanical steering!

Keep up the good work.

Kamikaze
You are on point! I tried it today and its a no go. I'm going to run the teleflex and controls another route and just keep that Chase pipe for power and neg wires ,fuel and other wiring. I'm just not comfortable cutting my stringer out any more.

[reelapeelin]

You are on point! I tried it today and its a no go. I'm going to run the teleflex and controls another route and just keep that Chase pipe for power and neg wires ,fuel and other wiring. I'm just not comfortable cutting my stringer out any more.


I noticed that pipe...was thinking instead of a single 90* elbow under the console, two 45s would make a much easier pull of it...I would think the steering cable would go thru that...

[Kracker Jack]

:nut:The transom end is 2 sweeps together to make a broad 90 degree angle.The other ened was just a hope and a prayer. It really not to big of a deal beacause I have a plan B to run teleflex and controls

[RidgeRunner]

Your work is great. I used a 4" chase but kept it inboard of the stringer, actually lays on top of the fuel tank in my center console.

[Kracker Jack]

Your work is great. I used a 4" chase but kept it inboard of the stringer, actually lays on top of the fuel tank in my center console.

Ridge thanks for the compliments. I thought about running the Chase down the middle but I had to end up running the teleflex outboard of the stringer sooner or later to get the bend to attach to motor. The way I'm running it now allows the teleflex and controls to kinda relax alittle better.

[Blue_Runner]

Looking good Matt!

[Kracker Jack]

csm on the bottom of my sole ply. Im gonna glue and screw tomorrow.

The other pictures are of my 4 year old daughter whos been telling everyone that daddy is building her an Ocean boat!!!. Whats boat restoration without pizza!!!!

[Kracker Jack]

Well today was kind of a bittersweet day, all that work on those stringers just to cover them up with plywood!!!!LOL!!! The sole was glued down today and the motor rigging ran. I have it ran to were changing teleflex is gonna be a cinch if it needs to be replaced. All holes cut were sealed with thicken resin and the pvc pipes through the floor were glued in to make them permenent.

[RidgeRunner]

Unreal, you are moving at breakneck speed. Every bit looks great.
Have you any ideas on your gunnels/cap? I have an idea on a cap for the '74 I have sitting in the yard. Them were some pretty stringers.. LOL. Like buying gold jawelry and hitting it with a spray bomb. :clap:

[Kracker Jack]

Unreal, you are moving at breakneck speed. Every bit looks great.
Have you any ideas on your gunnels/cap? I have an idea on a cap for the '74 I have sitting in the yard. Them were some pretty stringers.. LOL. Like buying gold jawelry and hitting it with a spray bomb. :clap:
She's coming along pretty good I've been busting my hump to get her done and ready for paint by spring. Im gonna band the innerliner and outer hull edge with 3/4 Acx,I'm gonna glue and thru bolt it like the factory does. I'm then gonna glue and screw a 3/4 inch Acx plywood gunwale and put a 3 1/2 inch return on the inside to incorporate the coming pads. I'm then gonna fabricate 6 gunwale ribs(3 on each side) and glue and glass to the floor,liner,and cap.All will then be tied together and glasses with 1708.

[kamikaze]

Kracker

I did a similar cap this past year on an old closed bow I converted to a center console to knock around on.

I made the gunwale ribs out of a mold fashion from a 2X6 (rib front) and two (sides) 1/4" inch MDF panels screwed to the sides of the 2X6 that were cut to match the side wall of the hull. I went with three per side as well, but for a 16 ft boat is was probably overkill


I then glassed a 2X4 on the top inside of the gunwale ribs side so that I could screw and glue plywood gunwale from the top as well as from the side walls of the hull . I used "2" urethane insulation on top and shaped it with the belt sander to soften the lines of the cap.

One thing I didn’t do that I should off is build up a lip on the inner rail so that spray doesn’t' flow into the cockpit if it makes it to the gunwale. It would have been easy to do with the urethane had I thought about it. Glassed all with 1708 and couldn't be happier. It is lightweight and quite strong. I'm able to walk the rail and there is no give what so ever.

Kamikaze

[Kracker Jack]

Im gonna incorporate a wash rail or lip on my cap also.

[mike77v20]

great work im and a hard standstill on mine the weather is kinda killin the budget but what can you do

[Kracker Jack]

Feathered in my edges today and finished grinding gellcoat (what a pain in the @$$)!!!!!! I cut my cloth and will be glassing the floor tomorrow. I also am gonna add a little bonus to this boat, I started prepping some 1 1/2 x 4 inch teak. I glued it together with epoxy and clamps and Im gonna make a teak steering wheel base (pod style) and control base and compass base to all match my outrigger reciever base will also be teak. All the teak will be cleared to a gloss finish.

[Kracker Jack]

Glassed in floor yesterday and set and glued my sump well. The floor went and looks awesome.

[Kracker Jack]

Im leaving and headed to Hertford, NC to get a heck of a deal on a fuel tank for the boat. A guy on craigslist is selling a 30 gallon above deck fuel cell brand new moeller tank for 60 bucks. I pretty stoked because this this is a great deal and the exact size to easily fit under my console.

[Kracker Jack]

just got back from Hertford, NC and this guy threw in another 18 gallon boat tank for free!!! so I got 2 tanks what a deal!!!

[reelapeelin]

just got back from Hertford, NC and this guy threw in another 18 gallon boat tank for free!!! so I got 2 tanks what a deal!!!


That IS a great deal!!...maybe w/your glass skills, a small bench in front of the console could hold the 18 gal tank...hmmm

Kracker, you're doing some AWESOME work on this V...you gonna have the whole package when done!!...

[Kracker Jack]

That IS a great deal!!...maybe w/your glass skills, a small bench in front of the console could hold the 18 gal tank...hmmm

Kracker, you're doing some AWESOME work on this V...you gonna have the whole package when done!!...

Im gonna incorporate the 18 gallon in there somewhere. Cra
igslist has been a great tool for finding things I need cheap for this boat. I also bought some Miami Lees outrigger base recievers the other day on craigslist for 20 bucks!!!! the guy had no idea what he had.

[RidgeRunner]

Stopping the glass at floor/side transition will make the fairing and finish on the floor a little easier. Neat work, I am impressed. Is it as strong as you hoped? Did you stick with one layer of 1708 for the floor? It looks great to me.
Congrats on the fuel tank score too. :clap:

[Kracker Jack]

Stopping the glass at floor/side transition will make the fairing and finish on the floor a little easier. Neat work, I am impressed. Is it as strong as you hoped? Did you stick with one layer of 1708 for the floor? It looks great to me.
Congrats on the fuel tank score too. :clap:

Im gonna stop at one layer. I truelly dont see me gain anymore strength out of another layer. The only thing I would see gaining is more impact strength incase of maybe dropping something on the deck. I can not believe how strong that floor is!!!!!! i glued it and put 8 stainless 2 1/2 inch screws per stringer per sheet she is strong as a bull !!!! Im gonna be banding the liner and hull this weekend and prepping for the cap. this weekend was a flop I got nothing done thanks to my brother!!! But what are brothers for?

[Kracker Jack]

Oh yea I forgot to tell ya'll that Im gonna be putting a roll in bedliner with uv inhibitors on the top cap and deck. this application will also help alot with not having to fair as much because of the texture of the finish coat.

[Kracker Jack]

well this weekend im gonna be jumping feet first into building the cap. Im gonna be ripping my 1 1/2 inner and outer bands with the table saw and putting a round over router edge on the bottom side of the band so i can rap my glass nicely into the hull. I will then glue and clamp the bands and then after the thickened resin sets up i will drill and counter sink thru-bolts every 12 or so inches. Im gonna fill the counter sunk holes with thickened resin to prep for glass. If i can get my bands on and glassed and ready for cap I will be happy. The weather is gonna be great.:sun:

[Kracker Jack]

I ripped some 3/4 today and routered some edges. I set the rail up so I could see what it looked like. Im gonna glue and thru-bolt friday.

[kamikaze]

Any reason why your not using solid wood on the exterior of the hull? I suspect your going to have issue over time with laminate even if you glass it good.

Kamikaze

[Kracker Jack]

Any reason why your not using solid wood on the exterior of the hull? I suspect your going to have issue over time with laminate even if you glass it good.

Kamikaze

I'm an amatuer at this stuff. I don't really see a huge deal with using the ACX. I was told I should use solid I'm glueing it and thru bolting it. What would solid pine do that the ACX won't? All you guys opions count. 2 things talked me into it,its flexible and I already had from my ply on my sole.

[kamikaze]

Just a back yard amateur here too! After going thru all this effort you have I don't suspect you would want a section of relatively narrow (width) ACX to delaminate/fall off the first time you hit the piling a little to hard? Never mind the water spray its going to receive over time and that will do it for sure.

My concern on the ACX is that it looks like it going to be difficult to properly seal the bottom edge to the hull sufficiently to ensure spray from getting behind the edge and working it's magic.


Kamikaze

[Kracker Jack]

Just a back yard amateur here too! After going thru all this effort you have I don't suspect you would want a section of relatively narrow (width) ACX to delaminate/fall off the first time you hit the piling a little to hard? Never mind the water spray its going to receive over time and that will do it for sure.

My concern on the ACX is that it looks like it going to be difficult to properly seal the bottom edge to the hull sufficiently to ensure spray from getting behind the edge and working it's magic.


Kamikaze

what other material do you think I should use in its place? I do promise you one thing,the way I've glued things on this boat so far water doesn't have a chance to get between the rail and the hull! Lol!!!

[Kracker Jack]

My plan is to glue the Acx with thickened resin. It will then be wrapped with 2 structual layers of 1708 over the cap and rail with a rubrail to finish it off. My buddy hit a piling on the bridge tunnel one night in his seafox and blew the transom door thru the side of the fish box. My personal opinion is anytime you hit a piling with force you should expect to see glass and core damage if hit hard enough.

[Richie Rich]

My plan is to glue the Acx with thickened resin. It will then be wrapped with 2 structual layers of 1708 over the cap and rail with a rubrail to finish it off. My buddy hit a piling on the bridge tunnel one night in his seafox and blew the transom door thru the side of the fish box. My personal opinion is anytime you hit a piling with force you should expect to see glass and core damage if hit hard enough.
that will be a good laminate......complete cold molded boats like jarrett bays are built with marine ply, 1 or 2 layers of biax, and epoxy...just fully encapsolate the wood..

[kamikaze]

My suggestion would be to keep the strength of the design internal to the hull.
1.) Glue a wider internal edging as described (with sufficent width to glue to hull - screw up from bottm to attach plywood base for cap).
2.) Glue (hard as nails) foam on top of plywood with fiberglass columns previously discussed to provide support in three locations.
3.) Cover with biaxial for strength then a fine weave to smooth apperance making a clean seem line with 1" overlap to the hull on the exterior.
4.)Cover cap/hull seem line with rubrail of your choosing.

Kamikaze

[Kracker Jack]

So today I set the rail up and did ALOT!!!!! OF GRINDING!!!!!!! I will be glueing and glassing the ACX bands tomorrow. Im gonna glue it and thru bolt it then glass it all the way from the inside liner to the outside hull kinda creating a solid block all the way around the lip of the boat making a solid foundation to glue and screw my 3/4 cap to.

Kamikazi thanks for all your assistants and advice

[Kracker Jack]

The handsom KRACKER himself!!!!:bsflag::you:

[randlemanboater]

Looks dreamy....at least it looks like a dream sequence.

[Kracker Jack]

so yesterday I glued up inner and outer bands(rail). Today I filled the gap between the 2 pieces with thickened resin and let it kick. I then sanded the top down and prepped it for my top strip of glass that will stitch the inner outer band together. And then glassed the strip. getting the angle right for my cap was kinda tricky, I used mostly eye ball. I have the cap angled to the outside the boat at about a 5 or 6 degree angle to direct wash over board.

[Kracker Jack]

Here are some pics of the rough-in stage ofthe splash box Im building. Its 2 layers of 3/4 thats gonna be glued and glassed together.:beer:

[spareparts]

Hey Kracker, if you're interested in that console, let em know. They may do something with that boat soon. I can probably get it as far as Raleigh for you if you want it

[RidgeRunner]

HD Brother..

[reelapeelin]

W/the splashwell in place, where does the water go that's gonna get into the boat?...sorry if I'm jumpin' ahead here>>>

[Kracker Jack]

Hey Kracker, if you're interested in that console, let em know. They may do something with that boat soon. I can probably get it as far as Raleigh for you if you want it

Spare I think im gonna have to pass on the console. I truelly have way to much going on right now to even be able to pick it up. I like the console alot and its unfortunate I cant get it. I will just work with the one I have. Thank you very much for your help. Were you the one who sent me the pictures? I responded back to the pictures.

[Kracker Jack]

HD Brother..

???? LOL!!! Whats HD mean?

[Kracker Jack]

W/the splashwell in place, where does the water go that's gonna get into the boat?...sorry if I'm jumpin' ahead here>>>

REEL to be honest with you Im kinda taking this part one step at a time. Im gonna build the splash box. and then temperally mount the motor and tanks and mock up average weight then splash it to see waterline and then figure it from there. Im now running into issues to were I cant trim my motor up If I build the false angled floor in the splash box. This part of the build is really becomeing a pain in the a$$!!!!!! I will figure it out step by step. This is the part you dont want to screw up on!!!!

[reelapeelin]

REEL to be honest with you Im kinda taking this part one step at a time. Im gonna build the splash box. and then temperally mount the motor and tanks and mock up average weight then splash it to see waterline and then figure it from there. Im now running into issues to were I cant trim my motor up If I build the false angled floor in the splash box. This part of the build is really becomeing a pain in the a$$!!!!!! I will figure it out step by step. This is the part you dont want to screw up on!!!!

Why are you adding a splashwell at all?...w/the sump in place, all the water's gonna wind up there...I think yer gonna find after you mock-up the weight and splash, your floor deck will be below water-level, so scuppers won't work...I believe it's all gonna be the bilge...which all the pre-'78s are and there ain't nothin' wrong w/that...

[RidgeRunner]

Heavy Duty. 1 and 1/2" thick splashwell walls before glassing. It would make a heck of a sturdy seat base, or a launch pad. All positives.

[Kracker Jack]

Why are you adding a splashwell at all?...w/the sump in place, all the water's gonna wind up there...I think yer gonna find after you mock-up the weight and splash, your floor deck will be below water-level, so scuppers won't work...I believe it's all gonna be the bilge...which all the pre-'78s are and there ain't nothin' wrong w/that...

Im trying to consolidate most of the transom wash with the splash box. Weight yes! The box I made is heavy as $hit! I was thinking about putting 2 brass tubes thru the transom and put a ball scupper on the outside, I can then plug the inside when fishing and under anchor,and when I'm running I can pull the plugs and drain water and I can also pull plugs when its on the trailer for rain water purposes.the 2 drains would be deck level on either side of the splash box.

[reelapeelin]

Im trying to consolidate most of the transom wash with the splash box. Weight yes! The box I made is heavy as $hit! I was thinking about putting 2 brass tubes thru the transom and put a ball scupper on the outside, I can then plug the inside when fishing and under anchor,and when I'm running I can pull the plugs and drain water and I can also pull plugs when its on the trailer for rain water purposes.the 2 drains would be deck level on either side of the splash box.


Like you said...you'll have to determine w/a mock-weight/splash test...hope it works out for you..lotta nice work there...:beer:

[Kracker Jack]

Like you said...you'll have to determine w/a mock-weight/splash test...hope it works out for you..lotta nice work there...:beer:

Do I necessarly have to make it go in the bilge? I dont want my bilge open to any deck water at all I just dont feel comfortable doing that. why not just put the structual grate over the sump with a bilge pump in the sump with a float switch and let it just pump its self out as needed. I would love to keep the back wide open with no splash box to get in my "fishing zone"

[reelapeelin]

Do I necessarly have to make it go in the bilge? I dont want my bilge open to any deck water at all I just dont feel comfortable doing that. why not just put the structual grate over the sump with a bilge pump in the sump with a float switch and let it just pump its self out as needed. I would love to keep the back wide open with no splash box to get in my "fishing zone"


Go way back in this thread...that's what I thought you were doing back then...LOL!!...that's EXACTLY what I was talkin' about...a grate over the sump w/a couple of SUBSTANTIAL bilge pumps to keep it all dry...no box (or the weight )

[Kracker Jack]

Im the happiest man in the world!!! the most expensive item for this boat and the item I dreaded buying the most has fallen into my hands at a unbelievible price!!!! The Guy just call me who im buying my t-top from and said $200.00 !!! I about jumped thru the roof!!! Im getting a all aluminum t-top that ironically was orginally custom made for a v20. The guy might be joining the forum he owns a v20 slapping. after purchasing this top I will be right at 700.00 dollars on this build. I have a budget of around 1500.00 dollars. The 1500.00 does not include outfitting with electronics( I already have a really nice lowrance bottom machine Thats brand new and still in the box).:hide:

[tartuffe]

Kracker, after dozens of opinions,, I would like yours, what did you end up using to glue your stringers in?

I was thinking of using a bunch of pl glue and fileting the edge with the excess, then coming back with 1708 oooorrr rubber 1/8" spacers and thickened resin to bed it and fillet.

It looked like you left the bottom 1" of your original stringers glass to hold the new in place, is that right? If so, did you leave the entire channel or just pieces to hold the stringer in place?

[Kracker Jack]

Kracker, after dozens of opinions,, I would like yours, what did you end up using to glue your stringers in?

I was thinking of using a bunch of pl glue and fileting the edge with the excess, then coming back with 1708 oooorrr rubber 1/8" spacers and thickened resin to bed it and fillet.

It looked like you left the bottom 1" of your original stringers glass to hold the new in place, is that right? If so, did you leave the entire channel or just pieces to hold the stringer in place?

Numerous guys I talked to in the begining used pl. I was gonna go that route simply because I didn't know much about additives and thickners. After doing more studying and research I learned to use thickeners. I would cabosil your resin and glue it like that,then make your fillets with the same mix then layup your glass. My stringers are bullet proof using that method. Your pl wount do ya much good as fillets in my opinion. I'm am no professional either

[Kracker Jack]

Heres the t-top i purchased. Yes its old school and has a boxy design but its built like a bull moose! but for 200.00 dollars im not gonna complain.

[Destroyer]

Ya, yer right...that blue trash can in the background does have a boxey look. As to the T top, it just looks sweet,...and at a really good price too. Congrats on a smart purchase!! :clap:

[tartuffe]

Not bad, not bad at all. Try coastal canvas down in morehead (maybe Harkers Island) when you get ready to buy the canvas top. He was cheaper than anythig I found online and he takes alot of pride in the grommets and stitching. Tons of colors to choose from although I recommend the Pirates purple with gold thread.

[reelapeelin]

I think once you get new paint and canvas on it, that top's gona be GREAT!!..Are you gonna paint it white??...I got a buddy w/an Everglades w/a white top...looks GREAT!!...:clap:

You gonna make yer own canvas?...there's a video online shows the whip-stitch all around to hold it in place...:beer:

[Kracker Jack]

I think once you get new paint and canvas on it, that top's gona be GREAT!!..Are you gonna paint it white??...I got a buddy w/an Everglades w/a white top...looks GREAT!!...:clap:

You gonna make yer own canvas?...there's a video online shows the whip-stitch all around to hold it in place...:beer:

Yea I'm gonna paint white. I'm doing my aluminum prep and primer research as we speak. And yes I'm gonna white,white frames on t-tops look awesome. I think I'm gonna give a hard top a go! I'm gonna make my own. I'm researching light core material also as we speak..

[reelapeelin]

Yea I'm gonna paint white. I'm doing my aluminum prep and primer research as we speak. And yes I'm gonna white,white frames on t-tops look awesome. I think I'm gonna give a hard top a go! I'm gonna make my own. I'm researching light core material also as we speak..

Actually you'd probably want an off-white of some description...What color you gonna put on the boat?

A canvas top would be much LIGHTER which is a certain consideration on any 20' boat...

[Kracker Jack]

Actually you'd probably want an off-white of some description...What color you gonna put on the boat?

A canvas top would be much LIGHTER which is a certain consideration on any 20' boat...

I have a buddy that does tops,curtains and apolstry. His name is Charlie Petty with Petty Marine. He would do the canvas for me. My boat is gonna be Fighting Lady Yellow(sides) white vc performance epoxy(bottom) and Off white inside the boat

[Destroyer]

Proper primer for aluminum is zinc chromate. Two coats, first coat up and down, second coat side to side..that way there are no highlights. There are several other types also, including epoxies, but the US Navy uses zinc chromate ... and most of their equipment seems to get a lot of salt usage for some reason.

[Kracker Jack]

Proper primer for aluminum is zinc chromate. Two coats, first coat up and down, second coat side to side..that way there are no highlights. There are several other types also, including epoxies, but the US Navy uses zinc chromate ... and most of their equipment seems to get a lot of salt usage for some reason.

Good info. Thanks Destroyer.

[draglink]

Proper primer for aluminum is zinc chromate. Two coats, first coat up and down, second coat side to side..that way there are no highlights. There are several other types also, including epoxies, but the US Navy uses zinc chromate ... and most of their equipment seems to get a lot of salt usage for some reason.


Exactly what I did when I painted my half tower on my 236 Mako. Followed the 2 coats zinc chromate with 2 coats of Interlux Perfection.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a49/draglink/IM000167.jpg

Closer

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a49/draglink/IM000177.jpg

[RidgeRunner]

Draglink - "A fine pilsner beer" indeed. Nice rig. Thanks for sharing that, you still have the Mako? How did it hold up with that paint system? Kracker that top is a find.

[draglink]

Unfortunately a guy from Richmond threw a crazy amout of cash at me and I sold her....I still regret it, it was the best boat I have ever owned (ok tied with my V:love:) , had her for 12 years. I sold her 2 years after I painted the tower and there was not one chip. The only flaw was where my 16' VHF ant rubbed through

[Kracker Jack]

Unfortunately a guy from Richmond threw a crazy amout of cash at me and I sold her....I still regret it, it was the best boat I have ever owned (ok tied with my V:love:) , had her for 12 years. I sold her 2 years after I painted the tower and there was not one chip. The only flaw was where my 16' VHF ant rubbed through

Drag, so you went with perfection. I was thinking about using the same paint on my t-top that I'm gonna use on the bottom which is VC performance epoxy. Nice boat Drag! I will also be starting the prep for spray shield this weekend like your Mako console has!!!!! That is sweet!

[draglink]

Thanks guys, she was sweet thats for sure! I think the VC will work, but wont have as high gloss as Perfection. The windshield is so low on that console I just turned it into a spray shield....I like how it turned out also.

Keep the updates coming on you V- Im loving your project!!!!

[Kracker Jack]

Thanks guys, she was sweet thats for sure! I think the VC will work, but wont have as high gloss as Perfection. The windshield is so low on that console I just turned it into a spray shield....I like how it turned out also.

Keep the updates coming on you V- Im loving your project!!!!

What is your spray shield made of?

[draglink]

Its just the plexi-glass windshield that I put a layer of glass on the inside for strength, then faired it out smooth

[bradford]

Great deal on the T top Kracker!

I like the white painted frame Drag.

There was another famous boat also called Natural Light.

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q224/Bounce19712/dads%20boat%20racing/OffshorePBA001.gif

[Kracker Jack]

I almost have the cap foundation complete and ready for fabbing the cap. here are some pics of the stern pieces i glued on lastnight and finished up tonight. I also included a picture of a piece of mocked up scrap plywood cap that i have been using to get all angles and dangles right. And notice the picture of my console with the free 27 gallon clear Moeller tank!!!!!! just got it yesterday for free from a buddy at work ,it was on his carolina skiff it has a sending unit and aluminum fittings Im stoked!!!! Its 3 inches narrower than the red 30 gallon tempo tank I bought 3 weeks ago. You will notice that the pic with the t-top that the bases on the top I bought are angle brackets!!! poor design!! alot of pressure in a very small area. Im gonna be putting new bases on it to fix that issue.

I also just wanted to pause for a minute a thank each and everyone of you on this site. All you guys have given me some great ideas and solid advice thru-out this build so far. This web site is awesome!!!!!

[Kracker Jack]

Grind,grind,sand,glass Grind, grind ,sand ,glass. Uh!!!!!! I'm gonna take s break this weekend and go taught fishing!

[Kracker Jack]

Grind,grind,sand,glass Grind, grind ,sand ,glass. Uh!!!!!! I'm gonna take a break this weekend and go taug fishing!

[Kracker Jack]

Here are some pics showing the way im glassing the rail before i fab and install the cap. The one pic of the transom shows some fairing and filling shaping and squaring up the transom lines.

[tartuffe]

Its looking sharp! Almost time to start talking paint?

[bradford]

Looking good, that thing is gonna be a tank!

[Kracker Jack]

Im trying to come up with a easy cover for my t-top. Of course canvas is the first option because it light weight. I personally want a hard top. I was thinking about making a mold a building my own hardtop but that is really expensive. So i had really good idea tonight, I logged on to craigslist and looked under auto parts and searched for fiberglass tonneau covers for pickup trucks. I found one for 50 bucks I plan on triming this tonneau cover so it fits my t-top and to also lose alot of weight.

[reelapeelin]

Im trying to come up with a easy cover for my t-top. Of course canvas is the first option because it light weight. I personally want a hard top. I was thinking about making a mold a building my own hardtop but that is really expensive. So i had really good idea tonight, I logged on to craigslist and looked under auto parts and searched for fiberglass tonneau covers for pickup trucks. I found one for 50 bucks I plan on triming this tonneau cover so it fits my t-top and to also lose alot of weight.


1/4" Starboard is cheep and you can use it for many other things as well!!...

[Kracker Jack]

Here are some new pics. #1 Kracker in action,#2 re-enforcing console to handle horizontal shift of the hardtop,#3 roughing in the gunwal ribs

[tartuffe]

Looking good, are you going to leave the ribs exposed? If so thats going to put your glass and fairing skills to the test. I have no doubts you'll make it look sharp.

[Kracker Jack]

Looking good, are you going to leave the ribs exposed? If so thats going to put your glass and fairing skills to the test. I have no doubts you'll make it look sharp.

Yea they will be exposed. The 2 in the rear Im gonna drill holes in them and then glue pvc pipe as inserts, for fishing poles. I definitely have my hands full with fairing. Im waiting to install my cap before any finish fairing starts.

[Kracker Jack]

Heres the cap supports I've been building. They are leveled up to the cap with a width of 8 1/2 inches. Another set goes up closer to the bow making a total of 3 per side. Give me your opinions on looks because it kinda looks wierd with the second one from the transom being high on the liner. They will all be glued, taped in and a progressive lap over the liner about 8 inches with 1708. Each support also gets 2, 4 inch stainless screws thru the rail also. Please tell me your opinions on design astheticly and structual. Thanks fellas

[tartuffe]

Since you asked about aesthetics I would nix the rod holder idea. Have the rod holders welded to your t-top. Structurally every one you add will be stronger than my 81 that has stood the test of time through some heavy seas (not by choice). I would think your strength is in the gunnel cap.

If I think about it too long I could argue not putting them in there at all but I of course am no expert. I think I could argue reinforcing the bow to where the flare ends with layers of glass for rigidity and relying on the cap and floor for gunnel support.

[Kracker Jack]

Here are some more pics of the gunwale supports. My cap is gonna taper from a full 12 inches at the transom to 8 1/2 continueing thru out the rest of the boat, so my supports look like they do because of this. It still looks kinda funky to me but i think it will look better once the cap is on.

[Kracker Jack]

Since you asked about aesthetics I would nix the rod holder idea. Have the rod holders welded to your t-top. Structurally every one you add will be stronger than my 81 that has stood the test of time through some heavy seas (not by choice). I would think your strength is in the gunnel cap.

If I think about it too long I could argue not putting them in there at all but I of course am no expert. I think I could argue reinforcing the bow to where the flare ends with layers of glass for rigidity and relying on the cap and floor for gunnel support.

Yea im not gonna drill the holes for the holders.

[Kracker Jack]

Well I have a paint schedule finally. Im gonna be using all Interlux products starting on the bottom with a white VC PERFORMANCE EPOXY, moving up the sides with a epoxy primekote primer and Interlux Perfection Fighting Lady Yellow topcoat. The caps and inside will also be primed with epoxy primekote and top coated with Interlux perfection Artic White. Im also open to using a durabak 18 white bedliner for non skid or a Grizzly grip product. Im also gonna sandblast my t-top then use a Interlux prime wash and then prime with Interprotect 2000E epoxy primer with a finish coat of Perfection Artic White.

i have been experimenting with the 3m glass bubbles I bought, and making fairing compounds. I think its alot better to make your own rather than buying it and alot more cost effective. I can make 2 1/2 gallons of fairing compound for right at $115.00.

[tartuffe]

I was thinking about using those same rpoducts. I was going the sterling route until I priced it all up Friday and the tab came to $1300:oh: so I went back looking at a few different brands. Anyway, the only drawback to the VC for me was having to spray it. I read they said it can be applied with roll and tip but its not made for that. So I'm going to keep searching for a high-gloss hard bottom paint that I can roll and tip.

Are you spraying or are you going to try and roll it?

[Kracker Jack]

Oh I'm definitely spraying. I painted my skiff,my old 24ft seaox,and the Albemarle and a bunch of stuff. I'm pretty good with spray gun. I have a good friend who paints cars for a living and pretty much taught me how to spray

[Kracker Jack]

I was thinking about using those same rpoducts. I was going the sterling route until I priced it all up Friday and the tab came to $1300:oh: so I went back looking at a few different brands. Anyway, the only drawback to the VC for me was having to spray it. I read they said it can be applied with roll and tip but its not made for that. So I'm going to keep searching for a high-gloss hard bottom paint that I can roll and tip.

Are you spraying or are you going to try and roll it?

I'm gonna have right at $380.00 just in product,I don't think that's bad at all. I was given a free gps for the boat today so that opens the budget big time!

[Kracker Jack]

I made my chase box at the transom yesterday, and yes its boxy and yes its gonna hold water in that corner but i really dont have a choice. I had plans of building that splash box witch would have incoporated the chase box in the corner.

I also built and routered my ridgid teak grate over my sump well, I made it with some scrap teak that came off of an old bow rider that is scraped. It turned out awesome.

[jasoncooperpcola]

All i have to say is, AWESOME JOB Kracker Jack!! :clap:
I just spent about two hours reading this whole thread. I learned alot.

I have a 1982 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman. The PO cut the liner all the way across about two foot ahead of the splashwell to do a transom repair, and now the liner is cracking where they halfass repaired it. So i may take the whole liner out and cap the gunnels with open sides. That alone may be enough to allow me put a bracket on the 18. :sun: AND raise the floor if i need to.

[reelapeelin]

Kracker that grate is awesome!!...I'm REEL glad ya decided to nix the splashwell!!...yer doin' a great job on this...EXCELLENT WORK!!...:clap:...fun to watch the progress!!...:sun:

[Kracker Jack]

All i have to say is, AWESOME JOB Kracker Jack!! :clap:
I just spent about two hours reading this whole thread. I learned alot.

I have a 1982 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman. The PO cut the liner all the way across about two foot ahead of the splashwell to do a transom repair, and now the liner is cracking where they halfass repaired it. So i may take the whole liner out and cap the gunnels with open sides. That alone may be enough to allow me put a bracket on the 18. :sun: AND raise the floor if i need to.

I have learned alot also!!! when I started this project I pretty much knew nothing about this kind of work. I owned my own buisness for 8 years doing residential remodle and light duty commercial work, so working with wood all my life and having what I like to call "VISION" made it pretty easy to catch on. I also did alot of studying and researching on the internet. Thank for the compliments. She gonna be battle ready soon I hope!!!

[Kracker Jack]

Kracker that grate is awesome!!...I'm REEL glad ya decided to nix the splashwell!!...yer doin' a great job on this...EXCELLENT WORK!!...:clap:...fun to watch the progress!!...:sun:

Reel I have decided to put a removable transom type splash board in this boat. As you can see with the black lines i photo shopped in the picture shows that the board will span the whole beam port to starboard. Will be about 14 to 16 inches tall and will be offset to the transom side of the sump well allowing deck water to drain into the sumpwell. The splash board will also have garage door type rubber gasket under it to reduce fatigue on the floor and ultimately keep water that comes over the transom in the general area until it can wash into the sumpwell and be pumped out. The beautiful thing about this setup is that its removeable. I am going to be making in out of a 2 inch micro-lam beam that will be glass with 1708 to encapsulate.

[Kracker Jack]

When you start a project evryone always has a vision of what they want there project to look like. I have had a vision of what my v20 was gonna look like since the day I saw it sitting in that cow pasture. Ironicly a guy On THT forum sent a picture of his v20 to my build thread after reading that I was gonna paint it fighting lady yellow and also paint the bottom white. when I looked at the picture of his boat I thought I was looking at a ghost!!!!! It looked exactly like I wanted my v20 to look like Except for some things which I photo shopped his picture tonight. I made the t-top white and instead of a black boat stripe I want a dual white boot stripe. Here is the picture I photo shopped. Its beautiful and is exactly how my rig will look when finished

[reelapeelin]

...and that Float On trailer is EXACTLY like mine except he's got smaller diameter wheels/tires...ghost pic for sure...

Kracker...no matter how the stern area of a boat is configured, the wrong wave at the wrong time can be a problem for ANY boat...but I'm lookin' at the sump-well open to the deck AHEAD of the splash-wall you propose and scratchin' my ol punkin head...if enough water comes over the tranny to fill
'er up, it's just gonna shoot up and out the sump-well in front of the wall, so it really doesn't accomplish much to install the wall...

Another question...is the sump-well open to receive water that'll get under the floor deck...if not, when water gets under the floor, where's it gonna go?...I'm afraid yer gonna tell me all that's sealed off and water cannot get in there...

[Kracker Jack]

That sump well is sealed off, theres gonna be one thru-transom drain plug in the sump. Im only gonna be fishing this boat in ideal conditions and no more than 15 0r 20 miles off the beach I seriously doubt I will ever be in a situation to were I take a rogue over the stern but i still I want the deck as sealed of as possible the only place water can get into the bilge is by the storage hatch forward at the bow, I want the boat to have a chance of popping up like a cork and rolling that water over the stern. In front of the sump well I will have a 7x11 pop up deck type hatch so I can access my rule bilge pump. I will also have a 500 gph or better in the sump well to pump transom and deck wash overboard.

[reelapeelin]

That sump well is sealed off, theres gonna be one thru-transom drain plug in the sump. Im only gonna be fishing this boat in ideal conditions and no more than 15 0r 20 miles off the beach I seriously doubt I will ever be in a situation to were I take a rogue over the stern but i still I want the deck as sealed of as possible the only place water can get into the bilge is by the storage hatch forward at the bow, I want the boat to have a chance of popping up like a cork and rolling that water over the stern. In front of the sump well I will have a 7x11 pop up deck type hatch so I can access my rule bilge pump. I will also have a 500 gph or better in the sump well to pump transom and deck wash overboard.


Kracker I don't want ya to think I'm raggin on ya...I'm actually envious of your skills, so take the following as food for thought...not criticism...I'm glad to hear yer gonna put a floor hatch ahead of the sump for bilge pump access...but at the same time on pump size; THINK BIGGER...500s are for bait tanks and paddle boats...a grand in the sump and a grand in the bilge are better selections...and even bigger won't hurt...
We took a 17'er 35 miles off Charleston one day and had perfect seas(as forecasted) until we were in sight (5 miles or so) of the jetties when we started taking waves over the windshield one of which took the hat off my head...and I bet ya Macojoe seriously doubted having his windshield destroyed and cockpit FILLED close shore either...some days, that's where the poop gets in the fan...I ain't waggin' a finger here...just tryin' to keep ya safe...

[Kracker Jack]

Kracker I don't want ya to think I'm raggin on ya...I'm actually envious of your skills, so take the following as food for thought...not criticism...I'm glad to hear yer gonna put a floor hatch ahead of the sump for bilge pump access...but at the same time on pump size; THINK BIGGER...500s are for bait tanks and paddle boats...a grand in the sump and a grand in the bilge are better selections...and even bigger won't hurt...
We took a 17'er 35 miles off Charleston one day and had perfect seas(as forecasted) until we were in sight (5 miles or so) of the jetties when we started taking waves over the windshield one of which took the hat off my head...and I bet ya Macojoe seriously doubted having his windshield destroyed and cockpit FILLED close shore either...some days, that's where the poop gets in the fan...I ain't waggin' a finger here...just tryin' to keep ya safe...

Reel I completely agree with you on the pumps,I will drop and 1100 rule in the sump and in the bilge. The worst conditions I have ever been in was in my dads v20 during our small boat marlin tournament here out of va beach. And I been on my dads v20 and we have taken it where v20's don't belong, the furthest we fished my dads v was 58 miles off the beach up in the " Fingers" tuna and white marlin fishing with acid jugs filled with gas strapped to the console. And burning numerous external red moeller tanks on the way out. So yes you are right, conditions can change at the drop of a hat. Reel I always appreciate all your advice and thanks for all help and input.

[spareparts]

Kracker, I allways tell people to go at least 2000 on their primary pumps with teh 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, bilge pumps are rated with no hose, no head pressure, just free flow and at 18 V. WHen you drop it down to 12 v, your cutting flow by about a third, when you hook hose to it with any rise, it probably drops another third, its said that the corrigated hose cuts flow in half. Years ago, one of th boating magazines did some test to confirm this data, it was worse than they thought, I wish I still had that article, I've sure quoted it enough. I run three 2000 GPH pumps on my V, each one with a direct lead to a high amp(20) rated float switch and directly to a battery, I run an indirect on/off switch as well, two of the float switches are in the bottom of the bilge, I have indicator lights on these, the third flaot switch is raised bit off the floor and is hooked to an alarm and light. IF you think youhave enough pump capacity, next time you go to the ramp, leave the pug out when you back it in, see if your pump can over come the water coming in thur a 3/4 hole, imagine what a thru hull broken off, or even some kind of hull breach would allow in. Oh and by the way, I've found the average life span for most pumps is about three years, just after the warranty runs out. Just food for thought

[Kracker Jack]

Kracker, I allways tell people to go at least 2000 on their primary pumps with teh 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, bilge pumps are rated with no hose, no head pressure, just free flow and at 18 V. WHen you drop it down to 12 v, your cutting flow by about a third, when you hook hose to it with any rise, it probably drops another third, its said that the corrigated hose cuts flow in half. Years ago, one of th boating magazines did some test to confirm this data, it was worse than they thought, I wish I still had that article, I've sure quoted it enough. I run three 2000 GPH pumps on my V, each one with a direct lead to a high amp(20) rated float switch and directly to a battery, I run an indirect on/off switch as well, two of the float switches are in the bottom of the bilge, I have indicator lights on these, the third flaot switch is raised bit off the floor and is hooked to an alarm and light. IF you think youhave enough pump capacity, next time you go to the ramp, leave the pug out when you back it in, see if your pump can over come the water coming in thur a 3/4 hole, imagine what a thru hull broken off, or even some kind of hull breach would allow in. Oh and by the way, I've found the average life span for most pumps is about three years, just after the warranty runs out. Just food for thought

Thanks for the info Spare. Me and you actually spoke about this bilge pump set up on the phone.

[RidgeRunner]

X2 What Spare said. The GPH rating system on pumps is well overstated. I have one 1000 and one 1500 Rule's in the bilge of my 20. One of the automatic switches is higher than the other. I can put a 3/4" garden hose at 60 psi loose in the boat. The first 1000 GPH pump comes on, pumps the water out and turns itself off. If the second one kicks in a light and alarm sounds to warn of high water in the bilge. I have heard the alarm during testing but never on the water.. I try to keep the bilge clean so nothing can jam the impeller. I am OCD about the pumps on this boat. When either one of them die, I am going to upsize again. I started with an 800 and a 1000.

[Kracker Jack]

Started stripping the t-top today after work. LOADS OF FUN!!!! I devised a mounting plan for the top. Im gonna have to extend it in height by 4 inches and fabricate base plates. Then fabricate some standoff brackets for mounting it to the side of the console. Then bring it to my welder to get it glued together. i can weld but cant weld aluminum!!!!!:head::cen:

[jasoncooperpcola]

Looking good Kracker! :clap: And x3 what everyone is saying on bilge pumps. I wouldn't trust a 500gph bilge pump at all.

On a second note, i have decided to keep my V20. Now, its a cuddy cabin, I want a center console. What do you think of gutting it and rigging it like yours? I showed dad some of the pictures of yours and he likes it. I believe all my stringers and transom are in good shape. I have the console and bow rails from the 18 i planned to rebuild. I just dont like the cuddy and the useless livewell in the floor. :head:

[Kracker Jack]

Looking good Kracker! :clap: And x3 what everyone is saying on bilge pumps. I wouldn't trust a 500gph bilge pump at all.

On a second note, i have decided to keep my V20. Now, its a cuddy cabin, I want a center console. What do you think of gutting it and rigging it like yours? I showed dad some of the pictures of yours and he likes it. I believe all my stringers and transom are in good shape. I have the console and bow rails from the 18 i planned to rebuild. I just dont like the cuddy and the useless livewell in the floor. :head:

What year is your v20?

[jasoncooperpcola]

Its the '83 V20 in my signature.

[reelapeelin]

Started stripping the t-top today after work. LOADS OF FUN!!!!



Come strip my bottom coat and I'll run up there and strip yer T-top!!...:clap:

[Kracker Jack]

as you guys have watched me build this boat Im sure a few of you now have figured out that everything I do on this boat is CAVE MAN style and I guess I would say old school and fuctional.Even the core for my hatches that i cut out tonight are just simple ACX 3/4 ply thats gonna be wrapped with 2 layers of 1708 and then faired. This is a very budget concious build.This is what I consider a true shade tree build!!!!!!

[Kracker Jack]

Come strip my bottom coat and I'll run up there and strip yer T-top!!...:clap:

UH....NO LOL!!!!!!!:you:

[Kracker Jack]

Looking good Kracker! :clap: And x3 what everyone is saying on bilge pumps. I wouldn't trust a 500gph bilge pump at all.

On a second note, i have decided to keep my V20. Now, its a cuddy cabin, I want a center console. What do you think of gutting it and rigging it like yours? I showed dad some of the pictures of yours and he likes it. I believe all my stringers and transom are in good shape. I have the console and bow rails from the 18 i planned to rebuild. I just dont like the cuddy and the useless livewell in the floor. :head:

I looked at some 83's tonight and I take it that 1983 was on of the years were they raised the floor and cap. You have a whole different animal than mine. Whack the cabin of that rascal and mount the console and roll. or do a center console with a forward cabin but just shorten the cabin towards the bow like 2 foot!!!

[jasoncooperpcola]

as you guys have watched me build this boat Im sure a few of you now have figured out that everything I do on this boat is CAVE MAN style and I guess I would say old school and fuctional.Even the core for my hatches that i cut out tonight are just simple ACX 3/4 ply thats gonna be wrapped with 2 layers of 1708 and then faired. This is a very budget concious build.This is what I consider a true shade tree build!!!!!!
Kracker Jack, i have never been a fan of a linered boat. I like simple and old school. I love my V20 (not as much as my dad does though!!!!!) but in my opinion liners are wasted space, excess weight, and something else to leak. I would like to build a ?rolled gunnel? V20 center console. I think i can use the upper portion of the liner. And do like you suggested and cut the cuddy portion out or shorten it. I apologize for hijacking your thread, i see a good idea and get carried away.

[reelapeelin]

as you guys have watched me build this boat Im sure a few of you now have figured out that everything I do on this boat is CAVE MAN style and I guess I would say old school and fuctional.Even the core for my hatches that i cut out tonight are just simple ACX 3/4 ply thats gonna be wrapped with 2 layers of 1708 and then faired. This is a very budget concious build.This is what I consider a true shade tree build!!!!!!


Well I suppose all things are relative...it looks like rocket science from here...:clap:

[RidgeRunner]

Re subscribed.. Jasoncoopercola, The liner on the 1983 also adds a lot of structural support. The hull is flemsy without the cap. Glassing a rolled gunnel will help with some of the structural issues but I suspect you would need to install some ribs to keep the hull sides from flopping in the waves and causing stress cracks where the bulkheads meet the hull sides. The older hulls, like KrackerJack's have a liner but it is glued in place tight to the outer skin I think. that adds strength. Then his gunnel cap and vertical braces (ribs) are going to tighten her up even further. I have Reels old 74 here that is like Kracker's. That is the best I can determine without ripping into her.
Kracker, your work is just fine, don't beat yourself up. Two layers of 1708? :beer: You are building her heavy. :clap:

[Kracker Jack]

Re subscribed.. Jasoncoopercola, The liner on the 1983 also adds a lot of structural support. The hull is flemsy without the cap. Glassing a rolled gunnel will help with some of the structural issues but I suspect you would need to install some ribs to keep the hull sides from flopping in the waves and causing stress cracks where the bulkheads meet the hull sides. The older hulls, like KrackerJack's have a liner but it is glued in place tight to the outer skin I think. that adds strength. Then his gunnel cap and vertical braces (ribs) are going to tighten her up even further. I have Reels old 74 here that is like Kracker's. That is the best I can determine without ripping into her.
Kracker, your work is just fine, don't beat yourself up. Two layers of 1708? :beer: You are building her heavy. :clap:

Ridge you are correct my liner is tight to the outer hull. It is glued or puttied down from the cap about 2 inches and then it expands out and seperates from the out side hull. So what I did was drilled holes in my liner were my gunwale supports are laid out and filled the holes with foam to even further tighten up the rigidity of the hull.

[jasoncooperpcola]

I did not know that Ridge. I know the 18 i have tore apart now is a floppy mess. I am just wondering if i can cut the liner and reuse the cap but lay my own sole. I have no problem installing and making ribs. I want to delete the two rear hatches and splashwell. I may bracket the v20 so i wont need a splashwell, maybe even install a transom door? The hardest part i foresee is the cuddy and windsheild part of the liner. I will have to look close at my v20 and see how much work is involved. But i like Krackers idea of a shortened cuddy centerconsole. I am pulling the liner to check my stringers and transom, but i cant do anything till i get the 18 out of the garage. Last thing code enforcement needs to see is a torn apart boat in the yard..........

[Kracker Jack]

BIG GLASS DAY TOMORROW!!! 84 degrees, no humidity. Gunwale supports are being glassed tomorrow. Im gonna try and do wet on wet with all of them to keep it strong. I have alot of glassing left to do, I cant wait till its over. Im getting ever so closer, the t-top has become a project in itself. I also found a slap disc that has a full radius around the entire edge of the wheel it is great for shaping inside radius, I'll take a pic of it tomorrow it is a must have for shaping inside corners saves alot of time.:sleep:

[draglink]

Beautiful day for fiberglass Kracker! I was hoping to have new V here but ran out of time yesterday.....Scrubbing on my '78 today.

Post pics of progress this eve!!!

[Kracker Jack]

So I laid out my patches to grind off the gelcoat and grinded for about 1 hour. MEK all surfaces and then glued the gunwale supports on. The pictures kinda speak for themselves. You will see numerous tie-in points from the 4" screws thru the entire rail to the glassed "strap" on top of the gunwale supports also locking in the rail and the gunwale supports. I taped the gunwale supports in with 4 inch 1708 strips. in the next couple days i will completely encapsulate them with 1708. They were rock solid when they were only glued!!!! they were then bullet proof when they were taped, and now they will be bomb proof when I wrap them with the final layer.:beer::sun:

[Kracker Jack]

You can see in these pics how I made the gunwale supports rock solid. Not only did I glue and screw them but I also glassed a strip on them inside and outside and kinda "tied" them together before I glassed them on the boat.

[Kracker Jack]

heres how the bottom side of the rail has shaped up. I glassed one layer of 1708 to the band tying it into the hull I then at the point of contact to hull made a "fillet" or radius with thickened resin and chopped glass mixture. Just remember another layer of 1708 will rap that rail when I glass my cap to the hull. No chance of water intrusion under that rail!!!

[Kracker Jack]

Im off tomorrow so I will be roughing in the cap!! thank god!!! shes getting there fellas slowly but surely.

[Kracker Jack]

I didnt get to the cap today. I concentrated on finishing up glassing the inner rail to the hull and encasulating some of the gunwale supports. As seen in the pics the bottom of the rail was filleted and the the cloth glassed down the liner about 1" 1/2.

[Kracker Jack]

pic of the 4" stainless screws used to screw thru the rail and into the gunwale supports. the recessed screws were then filled with thickened resin.

[Kracker Jack]

heres an over all picture of how the boats coming along on the interior. I would like to be glassing the cap on by this weekend but overtime is propably gonna start so I can only work on the boat after work for awhile

[Kracker Jack]

grinded some rough spot after work today getting her scuffed up for fairing.

[Kracker Jack]

Here's some pics of the boat getting the floor plan fine tuned so I can take some measurements and references to cut holes in my floor for my utility/acess hatches. And also a couple pictures of my 2 beautiful ladies!!!!!

[tartuffe]

Coming right along, I'm looking forward to your paint job. Quit :cen: around with lights and get to sprayin!

I kid, my neighbors must think I have a screw loose for the amount of time I just stare at my boat thinking of the goodies I want to put on her.

[Kracker Jack]

Coming right along, I'm looking forward to your paint job. Quit :cen: around with lights and get to sprayin!

I kid, my neighbors must think I have a screw loose for the amount of time I just stare at my boat thinking of the goodies I want to put on her.

Funny you say the word PAINT! I just ordered a my Interlux epoxy primer. I still have alot of construction and glassing to do on the cap and alot of fairing to do on the whole boat. Im hoping to be priming in the next 4 weeks. and yes my neighbors think im crazy also!! I took that one picture off the roof of my shed and my 81 year old neighbor came out and said qoute on qoute " your eat up with that boat arent ya son" and I just laughed.:beer:

[tartuffe]

Same boat, no pun intended. I just got my new fuel tank in so that cleaned my bank out for another couple weeks. I'm not ready for it just yet but it was such a great deal I jumped. I want to buy all my paint at the same time and that Interlux primer is giving me heartburn.

Did you go with the 2 gallon kit? I'm just doing the entire hull, no deck or gunnels. I would hate to get a gallon and have to wait on more.

[Kracker Jack]

I bought a gallon kit. Im just priming the sides of outer hull and the sides of inner liner and cap. The floor and cap will be done in durabak (UV rated bedliner 'white') and the bottom will be done with Interlux VC performance epoxy so no primer is needed.

[RWilson2526]

Been a while since i checked in....really starting to look like a finished product now. Assuming thats the family in those recent pics I think they deserve an award for giving you what must be a whole lot of uninterupted work time!!!

[Kracker Jack]

Been a while since i checked in....really starting to look like a finished product now. Assuming thats the family in those recent pics I think they deserve an award for giving you what must be a whole lot of uninterupted work time!!!

Yea RW those are my girls!!!! They have been very patience with me. But I also include them on the build also. Laila my 5 year old is so excited she is a fishing fool! Irene was born and raised on chincoteague island up on the eastern shore of Virginia so she is a boat girl and has actually enjoyed watching the progress, she also pick out the color of the boat.