Transom?'s

[71mako19]

Well, I towed the new V back on Sunday. Ill post pics and story soon. Anyway, poking around it looks like Ill need to do a transom. Also, the port stringer is separated from the transom and a bit of the bilge floor so that will be fixed as well. Real f'd up. Anyway, there is a curve to the transom over all, my question is how do you replace the plywood when there is a curve? Do I cut it in sections and laminate them to form the radius, or does straight plywood work? Also looking into the nidacore pourable transom but it seems like it would be easy enough to remove the top cap from the transom, chainsaw out the rotten wood, and drop in the new wood. I would like to avoid cutting up the entire floor. Ill obviously need to make some access to repair the stringer. Any help?

Steve
73 V center console

[Blue_Runner]

See Hammer's transom rebuild in the off topic section I believe.

I personally wouldn't do the chainsaw thing... I don't think you'll ever be able to get all the wood out therefore I don't think you'll get a good bond. If you don't want to cut the floor up you can do the job from the outside whereas Hammer is doing his from the inside.

P.S. I have never done a boat transom so take this with a grain of salt!

[msbhammer]

BLUE, is correct, it's impossible to get all that wood out of the transom. I'm redoing a 78 V20 cudy. This is my first transom job. Not hard at all. I'm doing all the work myself. The transom is curved. What I did was after making teh template, cut a few long knotches into the plywood. I only cut to the thickness of one ply.
Check out Hammers transom repair.
Post pics. of what ya got and the problem.
Where ya located ?

[71mako19]

I checked out your transom post, looks good. A lot of work you did there. Im in MA. I just got done restoring a mako 19 and was trying to keep the repairs on this one under the radar, my wife will flip when she sees me cutting into another boat. I told her this one was "turn key". I know there is no way to hide a transom job, just want to make it look like no big deal;). Exploring the cheapest and best way to go about these fixes. After scoring the face, how hard was it to conform the plywood to the old radius?

[THEFERMANATOR]

Some people go with thinner wood, and use more sheets to make the bend easier to form. I know one of the members here used 3 sheets of 1/2" to redo his transom because the thinner wood forms easier.

[71mako19]

Considering I need to repair at least part of a stringer it will probably be best to remove the rear portion of the floor along with the inner transom skin. Man that sucks....

[msbhammer]

Like I said, I did all the work myself. I used twp pieces of 3/4, cut a few slices down her, and she fit right in. Clamped her down and had her sit for a day.
How much did you pay for your V ?

P.S. I cant see any of the Pics. you posted. >:( >:( >:(
You are gonna post Pics....right. >:( ;D ;D :P

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by 71mako19

Considering I need to repair at least part of a stringer it will probably be best to remove the rear portion of the floor along with the inner transom skin. Man that sucks....

Removing the inner skin is not very hard and it allows you to do several thing without tearing up the fiberglass.
1 You can replace the transom form the inside
2 You have access to the florring without cutting up th boat
3 You can check out all the stringers and other stuff under the flooring

We took out my inner skin in just a day and that involved removing the engine, center console, removing rub rail and screws under the RR and loosing upp any hoses or wires which need attached to the inner skin. If you want more info let me know.

[71mako19]

Still running- did you need to take any precautions in making sure the overall hull shape did not change? Ive seen a few mako and seacraft restores that deformed when the top cap was removed and it was next to impossible to get the cap to re mate with the hull. I dont know much about wellcrafts and maybe there is enough rigidity in there to keep it straight. That is my only reservation about pulling the cap, aside from coming up with a contraption to pull it off. That may be the best way to avoid unsightly cuts and get full access...

On another note Im real curious about the nida core pourable transom. Im gonna call them and pick their brains. Im gonna pull the top cap off the transom this weekend and see how rotten it is. If it is oatmeal and I think I can get most of it up through the top then Ill seriously consider pouring it.

[parishht]

That Nida Core looks nice,
I checked their website and read all the data.

I wonder how much would be needed for
a V transom?