What now?

jasoncooperpcola · #1 08-25-2007, 10:28 AM

I got my V back from the shop yesterday, and acccording to the mechanic repairs would cost around $800 at least. He said that my 1983 Johnson VRO 150 has no more than 75 lbs compression in any cylinder., the lower unit has water in it, so that would have to be repaired. We are fishing a kingfish tournament in September. So i have three or four options. 1st is a new motor. He said he could sell me a new E-Tec for a TOTAL of $11,750 AFTER rigging, controls, harnesses, oil tank, oil, etc. Thats a savings of $3000 compared to what I was quoted last! My second option is to try to make through the tournament with the current motor. He said i'd have to change the lower unit oil everytime i go out to be on the safe side and hopefully we'll win some money (or a new boat ;D ). And my last option is to sell my V-20 and use the money from it to get a lower unit for my 250 Sportsman. So what do yall think is best?

macojoe · #2 08-25-2007, 10:47 AM

Well first thing I would try to do is a decarb, Carboned up motors will give low compression, and I don't know how much you trust you guy but I have seen & heard of more then a few motors get change for something simple as a decarb!

2nd when was the last time you change the lower unit oil? And did you replace the washers on the drain screws?
I didn't one time and got water in the lower unit.

Could be simple?? But if you can stop the lower unit from leaking then nurse the motor you might make it thur.

Skools is are in house OMC guy here, if he doesn't show here soon PM him and see what he says.

Skools_Dual · #3 08-25-2007, 12:49 PM

that's a really old cross flow motor most likely worn out either buy a good used newer motor, does your motor have the red plug inside for the controls? if so you can run any Johnson /Evinrude up to 1996with no adapter but can run the newer ones up to 2001 with the adapter. that will save you alot of money without needing controls.

tsubaki · #4 08-25-2007, 12:52 PM

Do the foot thing with seals and lube.
If done incorrectly the compression test will be way off.
Do you trust your mechanic?
If it were me, I'd relube the foot, see how the motor acts and use it based on performance and poor mouth to the mechanic that you plan to refit as soon as you get the money.

willy · #5 08-25-2007, 01:14 PM

My Merc 150 tested low and un even on a compression check by the certified tech, brought it home, my 75 year old fisherman/boat experienced buddy brought over some stuff to decard the engine like MJ says and we did a job on the engine.
So much in there I white fogged my whole neighborhood for half an hour. When all was said and done compression was back up to close to normal, a little lower than a stock fresh engine would be. Ran like a monster after that because we also cleaned out the carbs while we were at it.
Also there are thousands of engines out there that run every year with low compression as they age. The big problem is if you have 1or 2 cylinders that are real low. So low compression should not be keeping you from the water.
The lower unit has water in it. Could be as others have said and someone did not replace the washers on the drain and fill screws, or they replaced just one(like happened to mine) or they over tightened one or both and cracked or split one of them.
So check it out, if they are ok and you are actually leaking from a prop seal or you may be leaking from an improperly torqued reinstall of the lower unit.
If it is the seals that have to be replaced then you can do two things, pick up a little jar of SealLube from New Tech or whatever prodet you have in your area for the job and add it to your lower unit oil, if it is a slow leak seal type of theing it will close them up good and you can finish the season on it.
Or you can lay out the cash for a new motor if you got it to run with, that is always a nice option to have. But I would not miss the tournament due to the issues stated unless the motor is dying or stuttering on you then I would not take the chance but if it runs good just a little low on the upper end power wise go for it ;)

TunaHead · #6 08-25-2007, 01:59 PM

I read your comment under the "Fuel Consumption" thread where you are getting 1 mpg out of the VRO. I don't have the experience to say if that will improve much with cleaning the engine up. Unless it were to improve significantly I'd think of replacing the outboard.

Fuel costs don't seem to be going down.

Hammerhead · #7 08-25-2007, 02:54 PM

Yamaha ring free will work wonders...but, I'd also be shopping for a newer motor. Good luck with the tournament.

steplift20 · #8 08-25-2007, 06:28 PM

how do you decarb ???

a motor

Bygracealone · #9 08-25-2007, 06:30 PM

Step,

You take the carbs off the motor ;D Geesh! ;D ;)

J/K... It's when you use some sort of solvent to remove the built up carbon in the motor/carbs...

tsubaki · #10 08-25-2007, 07:14 PM

Haven't had carbon build up on outboards but in auto's the basic principal is scoot water into the intake while running at moderate rpm's. This will create a white emission out the exhaust and cloud the neighborhood.
Done incorrectly it will warp or bend valves. The premis for store bought decarbon additives is much safer. The additive is petroleum based and the oils attach to the carbon and fall off. This process is identical to fuel injector cleaners.