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#1
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Well, the boss wants a slip because she foresees a disaster if we trailer. Gotta make her happy. So the nose on the lower unit has anti fouling paint. I have no clue how much of the motor will be in the water, when tilted up. If it’s completely out of the water or mostly out of the water, will I need to put zincs on it? Will I be able to hook up a hose and flush it without running it? I’ve never had an outboard in a slip. I have so many questions.
By the way, I started her up yesterday after sitting for a week. Fired up on the second shot. I have no idea what it’s gonna do once in the water but so far, so good. I don’t wanna jinx anything but I just need to pump out some of the old gas, pump some fresh on top of it and away we go. We should be ready to splash in 2 weeks.
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hammer aint. stinkpot aint. sawdust aint. rainbow aint. maco sure as sh!t aint. randle? ha ha ha. |
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#2
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Charlie, I would put in new zincs and as for the motor the nose area should be fine, because I don't see much more than that sitting in the water, but you never can tell. One way is to take it to the ramp, get her wet, then see how much of the motor will sit in the water when you raise it. What about your bottom paint are you going to have someone do it for you or you will do it yourself?
Everyone on here knows 100% more than I do, so if there is a different opinion, they are probably right, so go with them. Good Luck and get her wet soon.
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OLD FISHERMAN NEVER DIE, WE JUST SMELL THAT WAY
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#3
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thanks G. the bottom paint is in decent shape so i'm gonna just drop it in with what's already on there. as far as zinc goes, the only thing i can see is the trim tab on the lower unit. i don't know if the actual trim tabs get zincs. as i said, this is my first outboard. i never really paid much attention when my pop had outboards. i should have been more aware.
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hammer aint. stinkpot aint. sawdust aint. rainbow aint. maco sure as sh!t aint. randle? ha ha ha. |
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#4
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Charlie, how long has the original bottom paint been on there, if it's longer than two years you should repaint because you can have your own barnacle farm growing. If not that old, when you wet her run her at a high speed to reactivate the paint. The zincs, if they don't look all corroded or fallen apart, keep them. I only had one outboard and that was my 1st boat when I was 16, the other two, my Lynn's was an inboard and my Pro-Line, an I/O.
Enjoy your season with the family. G
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OLD FISHERMAN NEVER DIE, WE JUST SMELL THAT WAY
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#5
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The type of bottom paint matters. There is "hard" paint that has to be in the water. Once its out for a few days it starts oxidizing the copper. Over a winter it is shot.
Hard paint is good in Florida where you don't haul the boat for 6 months. There is Ablative paint. It can go in and out and you can paint in the fall and be good next spring. I use it. I used West marine CCP with good result. I tried West Marine PCA (more copper) last year because it was on super sale. Definitely was better. Used it again this year. Generally, you can paint Ablative over old Hard but not the other way. Go on the West Marine site there is a good explaination of bottom paint.
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#6
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Skunk is right!! I forgot to ask
if you knew what type of paint was already on your boat. I used Interlux CSC, an ablative paint which is a multi year paint. I think that paint goes now, I bet almost $300 a gallon. Back then I was paying $100. My friend Lloyd who has the Wellcraft, uses the West Marine paint and he swears by it, I don't know which one he uses, but I've helped take her out and she was clean.
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OLD FISHERMAN NEVER DIE, WE JUST SMELL THAT WAY
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#7
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i'm gonna be honest here... i'm gonna keep this boat one, maybe two seasons. although i may change my mind and keep it for ten years.... it's in beutiful shape. the current plan is to use the crap out of it for 2 years and sell it before the move down south and find my dreamboat when i arrive in the promised land. the paint on there now is in decent shape. no growth and it appears to be a couple layers thick. the marina is not located in stagnant water so i don't expect too much growth.
worst case, i'll blast and reseal the bottom if i decide to keep it. for now, i'm gonna drop and go. my real issue is zincs. i don't see anything aside from the trim tab zinc. on my I/Os, there were zincs everywhere. the trim tabs are bennett smart tabs, so there's no electric hookup. just a spring loaded self adjusting tab. as i mentioned, i don't know if the entire lower unit comes out when tilted up. even if i change the trim tab zinc, i don't think it will be in the water. i see zero prior growth from the boat being moored. what do you guys think about new zincs?
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hammer aint. stinkpot aint. sawdust aint. rainbow aint. maco sure as sh!t aint. randle? ha ha ha. |
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#8
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AND…. Will I be able to tilt the motor all the way up and flush it with fresh water through the hose hookup? And will it flush when it’s not running?
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hammer aint. stinkpot aint. sawdust aint. rainbow aint. maco sure as sh!t aint. randle? ha ha ha. |
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#9
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Quote:
Hope that helps |
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#10
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Motors made in this century have convenient flushing ports to connect a freshwater hose and flush the motor when it is NOT running. Most people has quick connect fittings to make it really easy. I always flush my motors.
Your outboard MUST have an anode (zinc or aluminum) bolted to the bottom of the motor mount. They all do. Often they have some internal to the head. If you don't paint, you will have trouble getting on plane by August...
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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