Trailer bearings, brakes, service........

bgreene · #1 02-09-2016, 07:00 PM

I learned a few things by disassembling my 4 rotor bearings, races, and brakes.

Now that I've done 3 of 4 wheels, believe I figured out why the new rear seals kept leaking grease...

I was greasing the seals before installing, figuring grease, grease, and more grease.
Then I installed a new rear seal " dry " onto end also dry and it seems to hold fine.

Now when I pumped in extra grease, it comes out the front as intended.
This was one of my winter " to do" and it's been fun.

inaforty · #2 02-09-2016, 07:12 PM

Interesting,
I've had bearings leak from the rear seal before.
Never realized that was a problem.

Did you go with kodiak brakes?

bgreene · #3 02-10-2016, 06:54 AM

Tie down I believe.

My trailer's a SeaLion.....about 3 years old bought new with optional stainless rotors and stainless brake lines.

Disk brakes on both axles, so got a chance to see how they all wore down ok.
Squeezing the new pads into place was a challenge, till I learned to tap a metal wedge in between the old pads to force the hydraulic shaft to retreat enough. Then the new pads fit in easily...
As with most jobs, learning little tricks to it is difference between struggling and easy work.

Rear seals - yeh, I was first lathering it all up with grease, grease and more grease.
I guess I reduced the grip, even though the seals tapped in tight ( used wood block to set in straight ).
Finally on 3rd rear seal attempt, I used new seal dry, and cleaned hub rim dry with solvent.
Now it's rubber to metal and seal seems correct and tight.
Pumping grease in.....the grease has to move through the bearings to migrate back out the front, so it does put pressure on the rear seal. Therefore best to pump the grease in slowly, and if possible not when it's extremely cold outside, which thickens the grease a bit.

inaforty · #4 02-11-2016, 05:07 PM

bgreene,

Did you run new brake lines? I'm going to replace the brake lines on my trailer. Not sure how to go about running those line inside the trailer frame.

The brakes haven't work since I bought the trailer. I have to switch the hydraulics surge coupler/actuator because I'm going to disc brakes from drum style. I figured that it's best to start with new stuff.

Hoping this snow melts soon so I can get this project started. I got 11 weeks until we make a 1500+ mile trip from MA to Port Charlotte FL. Hopefully it's uneventful. Looking forward to exploring the Port Charlotte area.

bgreene · #5 02-11-2016, 09:11 PM

I didn't replace brake lines...my trailers only a few years old.

Generally, when it comes to snaking lines, if the old line is still in, bind the end of the old to the new ( duct tape can create a nice smooth mate ) and pull the old till the new shows at the other end.

If not, maybe check with the mfg for the schematic and match up.

Best of luck .....bleed the lines clear and test.

Destroyer · #6 02-12-2016, 07:27 PM

You can buy completely new brake line kits, that use rubber brake hose instead of the steel brake lines. I have it on my tandem trailer and I loved the ease of that installation. They come as either single axle or tandem axle installations, complete with all the necessary fittings, cross over "t's", etc. And unlike metal brake lines, they do not rust out over time. Also, much easier to snake down the inside of a trailer box beam. (I used my electricians snake, and worked from the axle side to the front of the trailer... took all of about a minute to come out the front hole, then just taped the brake hose to the snake, pulled it back and was done with that part of it) The only thing you have to be careful of is to order the correct size kit for the length and width of the trailer, since the kits come in several different sizes and unlike a metal brake line that you can cut and double flare, you can't cut a rubber brake line, so measure carefully.

inaforty · #7 02-14-2016, 10:36 AM

Thank you Destroyer!!

AWESOME!!!
I was unaware that they made such a kit.
I was pondering using a compression union to connect a new steel brake line to the old line then snaking it through the frame but rubber lines sound much easier and no rust/rot to deal with.

bgreene · #8 03-21-2016, 06:28 PM

Test tow and the brakes seem better than when the trailer was new......

Positive feel to braking, and after a combination highway / boulevard run hubs slightly warm. Seems close to perfect. Should be.........took me long enough.

bradford · #9 03-21-2016, 10:52 PM

Good to hear

gw204f · #10 03-24-2016, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgreene

I was greasing the seals before installing, figuring grease, grease, and more grease.
Then I installed a new rear seal " dry " onto end also dry and it seems to hold fine.

On a double lip seal you want to fill the cavity between the lips with grease prior to installing the hub on to the spindle. I also like to run a very thin coating on the spindle seal surface to help everything slide into place. A dry seal on the spindle will fail.