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#1
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Hi guys I've been a member
for a while, but haven't posted anything. There seems to be a wealth of knowledge here about anything V20 related! I bought a 1996 V21 last June, I bought it in Florida, but it was a freshwater boat that had spent its life in New York. The previous owner kept it inside and took great care of it. I've been wondering if one of the guys on v20.com might have been the previous owner? I'm from Texas but I am currently living and boating on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Last summer, I didn't really do anything to the boat, but run it as often as I could and take the 3 foot long Wellcraft sticker off the hull! Before boating season gets going this spring, I've got some projects planned starting with upgrading my prop and adding trim tabs. I've got a rebuilt 1996 150 hp Johnson Ocean Runner, and as much as I have been enjoying all of the threads about Evinrude E-Tecs. The 200 HO looks awesome! I'm going to have to keep the Ocean Runner, at least for a while. I thought I had a aluminum prop (mainly because it was painted black) but after getting the part # and doing some research I found out I have a SST stainless steel prop 15x17 I guess it's one of the older stainless steel prop designs? At wide open throttle two people and some gear on board my top speed is 38 mph and rpms are 4600. Is this a typical prop for a V21 with a 150 hp motor? Shouldn't I be able to run at 5000 or so rpms wide open throttle? What size props do you guys run on a similar set up? Anybody running any of the newer stainless props like Vipers or Rebels on a similar setup? What kind of rpms and speeds are you seeing with 150 horse motor? Thanks for your help and advice. ![]() I'll try to figure out how to post a few picture of the boat. |
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#2
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your speed sounds good, but i would want to see more rpms out of it. what kind of boating do you primarily do? what do you want from the boat performance wise? these are questions that determine what kind of prop you need. i personally for an offshore/cruiser like the large diameter props. you lose a little top end, but they plane out slower, hold the water tightly, and provide goog mpg's.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#3
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Welcome to the site!
Before changing the prop, look at the engine setup. Depending on what performance you want to achieve, raising or lowering the engine on the transom a bolt hole or two can make a lot of difference. Usually the starting point is to have the cavitation plate even with the bottom of the boat and go up from there. Having the cavitation plate a little over an inch above the bottom of the boat is not uncommon. This will vary greatly with hull design and engine setback. Having one too high will cause overheating and ventilation. My boat is different than yours, the OAL is 20'6" and I've got a jack plate on it but maybe this thread will give you some ideas. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=12543
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'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny |
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#4
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make sure your tachometer is accurate, compare it with another tach(tempoary hook up another one) or have a tech use their shop tach to check yours.
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#5
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I would think he's pretty close(within 200RPM). I know many like the 17 pitch prop for a V-20, but with a 1.86:1 lower it is an awful lot of pitch for a 150 to spin. If it was a 2.0L MERC with a 2:1, it would be dead on, or if it was a 200+ it would be fine. For a 150 though I think he needs to drop back to a 15 pitch prop. His current numbers put him at roughly 5% prop slip, so it sounds like the engine may be a tad to deep on the transom. And the easiest way to check if the engine is mounted correctly is go out and run it. While at WOT go back and look at the anti cavitation plate(it's best to have somebody else drive instead of leaving her unattended) and see if it is under the water, even or out of the water. For best performance you want it to be just out of the water at WOT.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#6
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I use to run a 15 pitch I liked the performance much better, tad slower top end but better every where else.
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#7
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I run a 14 3/4x17 on my 85 v20. 5000 rpms and i can do about 42-43 with a good bit of fuel and two passengers. 2000 Johnson 175 though. not sure whether it is actually a 175 or 150 though because the id plate is unreadable.
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1995 Kencraft Challenger 19 2000 Johnson 175 1989 High Tide Super V 14 1981 Johnson 35 |
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#8
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Definitely go with 15 pitch galvanized
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__________________________________ 1987 V-20 1987 Yamaha 150 |
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#9
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I'm not aware of any prop maker that makes a Galvanized prop. I think you mean Aluminum. Basically your choices in props are Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Bronze or some form of plastic.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#10
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I run a 14 3/4 X 17 stainless Solas prop very similar to an SST. Very happy with the low and mid range performance. Sometimes think about putting on my 19 pitch for a little more top end, but def rather have the torque in the long run.
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1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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