Emergency stop switch

Joker2 · #1 08-16-2011, 08:01 PM

Question, I lost spark today on all cylinders while at dock, Just replaced ignition coil, had her running, idling smooth, reved her up to 2000 for a sec. sounded great, smoothest ever. Wanted to check to see if my choke worked so while running I pushed the key in a few times, she stalled out, I figure choke works. Then can't start it, probably flooded and fouled. Come back three hours later, can't start it, check spark ,none at all on any cylinder. If the Emergency kill switch is bad at the control box will the motor still crank? because mine still cranks.

Cam · #2 08-18-2011, 08:03 AM

Yep....motor will still crank but won't start. Check to be sure where the power ends and see if switch is no good.

Joker2 · #3 08-18-2011, 05:03 PM

went down today using my Seloc manual disconnected the Black Yellow single pin plug at the power pack, engine started right up and ran fine, I couldn't stop it unless I plugged it back in. Unless I am reading the book wrong ( which very well could be ) this means either my Emergency kill switch or my ignition switch is bad correct? Can anyone verify this for me?

tsubaki · #4 08-18-2011, 06:30 PM

Three quarters of the time the problem is not the kill switch itself but the devise on the lanyard (whatever that is called) that is removable in a man overboard situation.
With age it tends to warp just enough to cause the switch to activate.

And yes I think you are on the right track, ignition switch or kill switch problem.

Joker2 · #5 08-18-2011, 06:35 PM

maybe I'll just change them both, considering I don't really know how old the control box is, it's cheap enough.

tsubaki · #6 08-18-2011, 07:05 PM

You should be in a position to test them and see.
With the wire unplugged from the power pack test (with an ohm meter) to ground and see if you have good resistance (with the key in the on/run position), pull out on the kill switch to see if the resistance changes from zero to infinity. If so, it's the removable part of the kill switch that's the culprit. If not, it should be the ignition switch or something causing the closed circuit like a pinched wire.

In case I'm not making it plain. Zero resistance is a closed circuit position, open would read real high to infinity.
With the key switch off, you should get a closed circuit or zero.
With the key in the on/run position (if the kill switch is operating properly) you should get an open or infinity reading. If not pull out on the kill switch to see if it's the removable devise causing the problem.

Now if you still get a closed reading with the ignition switch on and the kill switch pulled out, it can be either of these causing the problem.

Joker2 · #7 08-18-2011, 07:13 PM

I'll try thanks

Joker2 · #8 08-20-2011, 10:27 PM

Spent 3.5 hrs tonight We lost the battle. My friend ( aircraft mechanic ) who is an avid boater came with his meter tonight to test my emergency kill switch, we read it was bad and changed it, tried to start it still no spark, ran motor the other day by pulling apart the Black / yellow plug by powerpack. Today after we changed kill switch we did the same thing, no spark. I'm goin' nuts.Could it be a bad ignition switch?

spareparts · #9 08-21-2011, 08:39 AM

remember the kill circuit makes a connection to turn the engine off, it grounds out the ignition, you want the black yellow wire an open circuit to ground when the engine is running, a closed circuit to ground when you shut it off. With your kill switch in the run position, it should be an open circuit across the terminals, with the kill switch in the off position, its should be a closed circuit across the terminals. Same thing with the ignition switch, with the switch in the of position, you should have a closed circuit to ground, with the key in the run position, it should be an open circuit to ground. Tell your buddy its like a magneto, he'll figure it out.

Joker2 · #10 08-21-2011, 12:32 PM

Changed ignition switch today, same result as last night, no spark, only difference is, just like the other day when I disconnect the black / yellow plug by the power pack she started up, she ran rough I could only keep it running by working the linkage, could be the seafoam I added to the gas last week, not sure. she would stall if I let it go. It would only shut off if I plugged it back in when it didn't stall. I think I will hook up a jumper from the black and yellow wire in the controlbox to the other side of the 1 pin plug by the power pack to see if that wire is shorting to ground somewhere from the control box to the engine. what do you think spareparts.