I think I better re-do my oil pan...

[Road King Cole]

When I took the old oil pan off, I couldn't get a few of the bolts off without breaking off the heads. Being that I wanted to get it done, I put the new one on with the missing bolts thinking that it should be OK with the new gasket. I filled it up with oil and its not leaking but I am not sure if the oil level actually goes above the top of the pan, and once it heats up and has pressure, it may develop leaks. I would hate to have to go through this all over again in a few months...

So since I still have the frame set up and not much to disconnect I think I better pull the engine and try and get the bolts out with a drill and "easy outs". If I can't get them\some\one out, I am thinking I should use a good gasket sealer as well.

Comments?

thanks,

rkc

[Bonita Dan]

How many bolts and where? The oil level is below the pan flange but sloshing from the boat rocking could cause a leak. Did you use any kind of sealer when you installed the pan? If your gonna pull the engine to fix it be careful when drilling on that aluminum block! One other thing,when ya pulled the pan did ya install the new style oil pump and screen assy.?

[Road King Cole]

They (3?) were on the side (port side) of the engine. I did not use any sealer. I would hope that it is the new style pump and screen, is there an easy way to tell?

[Bonita Dan]

Magnet. Old style pumps where aluminum and the new ones are cast iron. Tough call on the pan bolts man. Just looked at the one here at the house and its got a lot of mounting bolts so as long as they are all not next to each other I don't really see a leak problem is gonna happen. If it does then glue the pan to the engine with GM sealant! Only way to tell is to launch and run her around.

[Road King Cole]

Good news:

new style oil pump.

Bad news:

Couldn't get any of the broken bolts out last night. They are together. I drilled out the center and tried my easy outs, but they wouldn't budge. I think I need to look for a better set of easy outs\bolt remover (the type that you can attach a wrench too) as well as try heat.

rkc

[Destroyer]

I haven't worked on an I/O in a loooooong time, but if I remember correctly there should not be any pressure in the oil pan. That's what the engine breather (PCV) is for. It scavanges the fumes in the pan and burns them off through the carb. So you shouldn't have to worry about any pressure forcing oil out the pan lip.

Having said that, one sweet little trick you can use is to make yourself a few pressure extenders. Basically all it is is a short length of metal (about two to four inches in length and about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch wide. 1/4 inch thick should do nicely.) In a vise bend the tips of the metal bar about a 1/4 inch from the ends. (Just a little, 10 to 20 degrees should be fine) Drill a hole in the center wide enough for your pan bolt to go through. (Use a new pan bolt slightly longer than the original to make up for the extra thickness of the bar). Put the bolt through the bar with the bent tips facing the pan's lip, then use them on either side of the broken bolts. The extra thickness and the slight bend will create extra pressure on the pan lip closer to the broken bolts and will help make a good seal. GM used to do a similar fix like that on the valve covers on the old Chevy 283 engines. If you have a good junk yard nearby and they have "old" cars you even might be able to find a few and save yourself some fabrication time.

[Road King Cole]

Finally got the pan back on! I tried a new set/style/expensive of easy outs, no go. I drilled out the bolts and tapped in threads. Got a good tight fit on all bolts. I don't think I will ever go the "easy out" way again.

rkc

[Destroyer]

Congrats!!!