Bilge Pump Hard-Wired to Battery?

#1 06-19-2010, 04:32 PM

Hey guys-

I recently bought a 2004 V21- my first boat. The boat is wet slipped and stays in the water all the time.

The previous owner said that the bilge pump was hard-wired to the batteries (it's got 2) and the float switch would kick on when water accumulated in the bilge. Sounds like a good idea- I shouldn't have to worry about accidentally draining the battery by leaving the courtesy light on or something. The owner's manual confirms that the bilge pump is hard-wired to the batteries.

BUT- I was mucking around in the bilge this afternoon and lifted the float switch to make sure the pump would come on. It didn't. When I switched the battery from OFF to 1, 2, or Both and lifted the float switch, it purrs to life.

Any thoughts? Should I be leaving the battery switch on?

Nate

HookedOnMarsh · #2 06-19-2010, 04:44 PM

I would leave the battery switch on to ease my mind until I could go through the wiring and confirm that's the way it's wired. Sounds like it got wired wrong.

macojoe · #3 06-19-2010, 09:20 PM

I have both on mine, I hard wire the float to the battery, and manual to a on/off switch, this way I can turn on when i want and its on all the time for the float.
You need to wire right to the battery to get around the sector switch from cutting the power.

Seacrets · #4 06-19-2010, 09:24 PM

What MJ says.

#5 06-20-2010, 09:30 AM

I hear ya. But for arguments sake, let's say that it already is hard-wired to the battery. What would cause the bilge not to run when the battery is set to OFF.

Was working fine last week..

HookedOnMarsh · #6 06-20-2010, 11:07 AM

Is it possible that the switch on your dash for the bilge is set to ON and the only reason you hear the pump run is when you cut the Battery switch ON? This would mean the float is bad. Good time to check your wiring down in the bilge too. Seen too many of my buddies' boats have deterioted wiring so bad it's a wonder it works. I have found that after the copper wire degrades to a green goo, it will still conduct for little while, then POOF!

bradford · #7 06-21-2010, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by biscayn8

I hear ya. But for arguments sake, let's say that it already is hard-wired to the battery. What would cause the bilge not to run when the battery is set to OFF.

Was working fine last week..

Sounds to me like it's NOT hard wired to the battery, but wired in after the off 1 2 both switch. Wire the float switch directly to the battery and you should be good to go with the both 1 2 off switch turned off.

#8 06-23-2010, 06:40 AM

Yep. You are correct. After some additional investigation, the bilge pump and radio which were once hard-wired to the battery, were re-wired. I could care less about the radio but I need to re-wire the bilge pump.

Thanks for the responses, everyone.

jjjtronics · #9 06-23-2010, 10:20 AM

Guys, just because I am so nosey, and DO care, I will like to add an idea which has worked for me beautifully for 3 years now. When I rewired her, I knew, because I worked Marine electronics for a few years, that "faulty" bilge pumps are a common cause of sunk boats at the Marinas here, well, the safest way to wire them ( Mine is dead straight to the batt. with just a water/sinkable proof fuse holder in line with the + wire and the float switch in between, no manual switch, nothing else ). But, I learn from years of findings and complaints and almost sunk boats, a common problem is DIRT and DEBRY and CRAP that lives on the bilge. Stuff that gets stuck under float switches and also cloggs pumps etc. so the pumps keep on running without pumping water until the battery is drained to death, either because the pump is clogged or because the float keeps the pump running even on a dry bilge. Dead battery, no pump action, youre going down baby !!!!
So, I intalled on the float, and on the pump, homemade fence/screens for both the pump and the float. I used tall Tupperware bouls, with many holes around the sides, and the tops lids installed on the bouls. I used a solder iron with a 3/16 tip to open holes which are reinforced by the melting ( drill bit try cracked my first boul made ) The pump boul is about 10 inches high, the switch boul is about 6" high. Never had a battery even weak, or a clogged or stuck switch so far ( let me knock on wood ). This is not my idea, I have seen this screen boxes already made for bilge pumps. Mine are Tupperwares !!!

macojoe · #10 06-23-2010, 11:08 AM

Glad you found the problem biscayn8!!!

Thats a great Idea jjj

Also its a good Idea to put the pump up off the floor, this will keep the sand and stuff from clogging the pump. And I have right to battery with no fuse, I rather the thing run and burn up then to pop a fuse and sink!