![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Spent several more hours on the V this weekend getting it ready for splashdown. I bought my V in the water last year, and literally never saw the bottom of it until this winter in dry storage, so while it ran well, and we fished a bunch, I really didn't know what I had...
This weekend's projects included re-installing both rod boxes, and all teak after treating it all to a nice sanding, cleaning and sealing with Sikkens Natural (great stuff!). All new cleats installed on the bow (used 5200 unlike PO), new side cleats, and began repair of the swim platform bracket. It seems the swim platform was installed with basic steel bracket that is now just a hunk of rust. So haveing a new one fabricated by the shop at my marina. Re-installed all canvas, and re-adjusted as best I can. It's gotten real tight from a few years of shrinkage. Don't think it's ever been treated, but that will happen soon. Got the bilge hatch properly attached in the splashwell, along with new seals where they were missing. Replaced the scuppers on thru hulls from splashwell. It appears that a PO put new thru hulls in at some point. They stick out about 3/8 inch on the outside, which is why the old scuppers didn't close properly. I got creative, and re-installed the old scupper mounts to create a spacer that worked almost perfectly. New scuppers close great, and hopefully will make for a slightly less wet splashwell this year. Lastly, added a new brace across the bow as the original is pretty rotted (see note re 5200 above). This is an area I still need to spend some time. It's good and solid from the hatch opening to the windshield, but still soft and sags a bit in the very front area. I think I may need to fashion another brace running across another 18" or so in front of the existing brace. Pictures will follow as soon as I get them off the camera. all good fun. Aching a bit from all the work, but it's a good feeling to have gotten all this done. Question for those of you with more experience re the scuppers. I used 3M 4000 (4200 with UV protect as far as I can tell) to seal around them. Should I put a coat of 5200 over this as well, or will 4000 hold up where these actually sit below the waterline?? |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Here's a few pix of the newly resealed teak:
![]() ![]() Any suggestions on replacing the cut out area shown above? PO had installed a raw water system, but it was completely shot and I removed it. Hate to have stuff disappearing below the deck... ![]() And with the full canvas re-installed: ![]() Note the newly replaced bow eye as well. Not my work, I'm not quite ready to dive into fiberglass work... |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Looking very nice. Go to SSI plastics website or flounder pounder marine website. Both have lots of plastic insert thingys which might work on the cutout.
|
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
Flounder Pounder seems to be giving some of the best deals.
Go to fpmarine.com click on plastics and scroll down. Several options.
__________________
Heavily medicated for your protection. |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
That teak looks great!
I need to do mine . . . |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Just about done. had to get a bit creative. I left the old scupper rings (removed, sealed, re-attached actually) in place to act as spacers since the thru-hulls stick about 1/4 inch out of the transom. Then I mounted the new scuppers over them. Here's the old scupper ring all filled in with 3M 4000:
|
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Teak looks fantastic!! Nicely done. Sounds like you're on top of the scupper problem.
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks Destroyer! I'm very happy with the teak, and actually, found it wasn't all that much work. Just an investment in a few evenings and warm days to get the sealant done.
|
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
|
Teak DOES look great!!...nice job!!...
On that hole in the back of the rod-box...have you considered facing the rod-box itself from the rod-holder back...attach to the front edge of the rod-holder and add cleats around the inside lip of the rod-box to attach to...could be done w/Starboard or more teak...filling in that hole as is, is gonna be a tough one...
__________________
'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
|
really thats an easy fix.remove it,clean & rough up the plastic from the back.cut wax paper bigger than the hole.wet the paper with resin & cover it with fiberglass cloth,lay it over the hole from the back & tape the edges in place.let it cure.remove the paper & now cut cloth to fit in the hole from the front,rough up the resin & wet it out & lay the cloth in & keep building till you reach the level of the plastic.sand & paint the boxes.done.I did a lot of repairs on mine.lots of fiberglass how to on youtube.
|
![]() |
|
|