Floor Repair

joe7670 · #1 07-08-2009, 01:50 PM

Looking to repair the floor in the V20. I've seen skools post and pictures where he cut out the floor and saved the cap.

I have 2 soft spots, from reading it's best to assume the spots are bigger that they seem from the top side.

Questions though.

Is it best to remove whole floor like SkoolsOut did and reuse the top? I like the idea of reusing to keep the molded sections around tank and like well.

How about in the areas where it's still good and connected to the wood, how do you get cap off?

Is the wood under screwed into the stringers? How's best to remove?

Should I be cutting through the cap and wood and expecting both to come off or cutting just through cap and removing it first?

Skools Out · #2 07-08-2009, 02:10 PM

the cap is screwed on at the rubrail and then the floor is glued to the stringers. i cut and removed the floor to avoid having to remove all the controls and wiring from the hull. but it's up to you, if you don't like glass work take the cap off then just replace all the wood from the bottom and reinstall, but if you are good with glass work you can cut the floor.

joe7670 · #3 07-08-2009, 02:28 PM

Lets consider I cut the floor much like you did.

Is the glass on the floor is not glued to the wood?

or should I be cutting through the glass floor and wood and then prying the wood up to unstick it from the stingers?

TXS V20 · #4 07-08-2009, 02:41 PM

I don't know what year you have or whether I/O or not. I had a couple of soft places in the floor. I did not remove the floor to repair. I did remove the gas tank cover and repair that - fairly easy. I also replaced the motor mount for the 470 - also relatively easy. I replaced the bulkhead just in front of the motor mount and the bridge between the two below deck storage boxes. Lot's more work! Big Boy in a small space upside down most of the time. I don't know where you're soft spots are and I did have access to the areas I was working in. I did not have the expertise to remove the floor and get it back together. I could muck around and get the work that I needed done. Didn't have to look all that good just solid and strong.

joe7670 · #5 07-08-2009, 02:58 PM

Spots are in the placed shown in red in the graphic below. guessing Skool's process is prefered for this much of a soft spot?

nymack66 · #6 07-08-2009, 05:09 PM

Joe,
I think your perception of the job is not correct.

First you cut the SKIN all around and peel it off chances are it not glued to the wood you may or may not have to help peeling it off with a help and some pry bars attached to 2x4 to avoid the glass
If the skin breaks or you are force to cut it DO NOT PANIC it can and will be attached later in the project without a hitch see my post when I replace the fuel tank before and after.

After the skin is peeled off you can cut the old wood up in pieces if its still attached to the stringers etc
You can use saw horizontally to cut the floor off the stringers if attach hard YES you will have a clear view of the project at this point.

Quote:

Originally Posted by joe7670

Lets consider I cut the floor much like you did.

Is the glass on the floor is not glued to the wood?

or should I be cutting through the glass floor and wood and then prying the wood up to unstick it from the stingers?

TXS V20 · #7 07-08-2009, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joe7670

Spots are in the placed shown in red in the graphic below. guessing Skool's process is prefered for this much of a soft spot?

The ones in my V were very isolated to one bulkhead that I had access to on both sides. You're prpbably correct, it looks like a considerable area.

Skools Out · #8 07-08-2009, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nymack66

Joe,
I think your perception of the job is not correct.

First you cut the SKIN all around and peel it off chances are it not glued to the wood you may or may not have to help peeling it off with a help and some pry bars attached to 2x4 to avoid the glass
If the skin breaks or you are force to cut it DO NOT PANIC it can and will be attached later in the project without a hitch see my post when I replace the fuel tank before and after.

After the skin is peeled off you can cut the old wood up in pieces if its still attached to the stringers etc
You can use saw horizontally to cut the floor off the stringers if attach hard YES you will have a clear view of the project at this point.

not so the floor wood is glassed to the floor glass and there is a layer of glass under the wood too. just set your skill saw depth to 3/4" it will cut threw all the layers you need to remove. trust me the V is not my first floor nor my last.

joe7670 · #9 07-08-2009, 09:55 PM

OK was gonna do some glass work on the transom holes but weather was a bit rainy so diverted efforts to get tank out.

Just finished and new tank is in the horizon as this one was shot with a hole on the site and all types of crap in it. So opened other holes in it to help leverage removing the tank from the snug hole.

Getting closer to opening the floor to see what i find. So far stringers in tank area seem fine. Did find some water in tank area and didn't clearly see a drain, but it's late and I may be over looking something. Will verify once I clean the hole thouroughly.

joe7670 · #10 07-10-2009, 10:04 PM

Had a little extra time due to waiting for transom epoxy to set and I decided to rip up the floor!

Much easier than I thought.

Stringers look good. Found the PVC clog that I had. Looked like a big glop of sylicone or similar texture.

Pe=ressure clean is next. No reason to need to remove the foam from the side holes?