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#1
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I am getting ready to redo my transom and I was looking at where the stringers attached and figured I would check them out. What I found was from the drain hole in the stringers back, I had very little wood left but from the hole forward was ok and all the fiberglass was strong. I was planning on pouring Nida-core for the transom. Do I need to somehow replace this wood or is there something else I can do. I don't want to cut out the splashwell. Everything looks good back there from the outside but I know that transom is wet.
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#2
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I was on an old 21' Cobia that broke both main stringers offshore in big seas, the boat began flexing terribly. The floor of the boat was visibly humping up several inches as we crossed waves. Both stringers broke about 5' from the transom, an area that apparently gets more stress than I'd imagined. If you choose to replace only part of a stringer, be sure to properly grind, fasten and bond an adequate length "sister" stringer to join the new and old without creating any hard points to the bottom.
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#3
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Thanks, it looks as if it is just the bottom two in the bilge area and the glass around them is still solid. I don't have any flex in the transom but I want to repower and I want to make sure that everything is good back there before I do.
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#4
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Its ok to fill them, but you have to cut open the top of the fiberglass stringers. clean out all the wood before filling.
I am thinking when you get to good wood you will have to glass over it before you fill so the filler has something to stick to, as it will not stick to wood. Good luck and take lots of pic's!!
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#5
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Ok I tried to get a decent pic of this. I hope I have been describing this correctly.
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#6
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I am looking forward to seeing what you find and your fix. I've completely replaced my transom 2 seasons ago and I am now thinking of cutting out the floor and replacing my stringers. I planned on doing this this past winter but I have ran out of time. My floor does flex in rough water and I think this is a result of the sides being pulled in when the new transom work was done. I stay strictly on the rivers so its not a big deal to me. Take lots of pics and keep us updated.
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1975 V-20 w/1996 225 Johnson |
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#7
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Well I don't have any flex in the floor at all, it is solid as a rock. I am still not sure how to approach it yet being that it is only a couple of inches that is soft and the glass is still strong. All of my running is done in the Chesapeake and tidal creeks. I will take plenty of pics I like taking pictures.
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#8
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actually you dont need to do anything to them as long as they are solid glass wise the wood was only a form for the glass per say. the the new boats the stringers are only made of glass on a mold then glassed in hollow so you should be ok.
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1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's |
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#9
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Thanks Skools, that is good to hear. As I stated before everything is solid and that glass is like a rock. I can't wait to get started, thinking about pulling the motor off this weekend.
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#10
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A lot of it depends on the usage of the boat. On that Cobia 21 we were miles offshore in November heading into steep 6 foot seas. My buddy was pushing it too hard on the way back and the old Cobia had less than a perfect factory job of encapsulating the stringers. The stress pulverized the glass because the stringers were semi-exposed and rot was starting. I've owned 4 Wellcraft boats, 2 of them V-20's and have found they've done a good job of encapsulation below decks. No matter how good a job is done on encapsulation, if the hull isn't kept bow up, plug out and dry in the bilge, you will be in for trouble.
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