Operation "Hatch Repair" underway - Page 9

76GMC1500 · #81 05-25-2007, 03:32 AM

If you ever do this again, put the more ridgid portion (the plywood) on the ground and the sheet of cured glass on top and then add weight. Thickened resin also helps ensure no gaps.

Skools Out · #82 05-25-2007, 08:39 AM

um hello that resin is thick and not that cheap crap from boaters world , if that hatch is like my 78 you can't put the wood side down the lip is thicker than the wood. Frayed you did good no issues now get on the water but pick me up inEI while out cruising ;D

macojoe · #83 05-25-2007, 09:40 AM

Great job!! The only thing I have done before was toroll a coat of resin on the woood first, this way it sucked up, then do a thick coaty just like you did.

But like skools said you done good and I bet its going to be fine for years!

frayed_knot · #84 05-26-2007, 12:30 AM

Well, I'm all set to reinstall the cover tomorrow. I spent $50 at Lowes getting some silicone and stainless hardware to do the phatdaddy method of hatch securing. I actually found the tee-nuts in stainless, but they ain't cheap, $4.97 for 2 :o I'm gonna use 4200 to stick the blocks in place ( cuz that's what I got ;) ) I figure I'll clamp them in place until the 4200 sets up a little then put the cover on and tighten the screws, that'll hold her down. I went all over New Bern looking for some self etching primer for the fuel tank. I finally found some at Auto Zone. It's a hideous green color, but who cares.

phatdaddy · #85 05-26-2007, 01:13 AM

frayed, you might want to put the hatch on right after you goop the t nuts to the deck, that way you can wiggle them around and make sure they line up, *once you get them all started, tighten em up and let them set up.

west catalogue has the stainless 1/4 tnuts 2 for $3.79.

frayed_knot · #86 05-26-2007, 01:18 AM

OK, sounds good, thanks phat.

Weird to say phat by the way, on every other non-boat board I'm on, I'm Phatpony :D

frayed_knot · #87 05-26-2007, 01:21 AM

Hey MJ, I thought about pretreating the wood, but I just couldn't find the info to substantiate doing that first. Next time I will do just that, but I will start in the morning and apply the second coat and cloth (depending on what I'm building / repairing) after the first coat gets tacky. ;)

Skools Out · #88 05-26-2007, 01:38 AM

if you coat the wood first and it soaks in and dries your bond to the glass will be terrible and will come loose later, if you coat both heavily and bond together the resin soaks into the wood and cures to the glass as well and is bonded as 1 piece.

reelapeelin · #89 05-26-2007, 09:33 AM

Frayed, I hear what Phat's sayin' about puttin' the screws in B4 the 4200 cures, and admittedly it's a "rock and hard place" thing, but if you try startin' those screws w/ the 42 still wet, it'll be REEL easy to push the block away from it's intended location B4 the screw starts threading the nut ...it'll take a LIGHT touch ...

...another thing to consider...those T-Nuts do their job REEL well and will allow LOTS of torque ... take 'er easy when tightening or that fiberglass'll go to crackin' on ya :o ...

...anyway, hope ya "geeter-dun" quick ;) ... it's time to SPLASH 8) ...

macojoe · #90 05-26-2007, 02:33 PM

Quote:

if you coat the wood first and it soaks in and dries your bond to the glass will be terrible and will come loose later, if you coat both heavily and bond together the resin soaks into the wood and cures to the glass as well and is bonded as 1 piece.

Gee you would think glass would stick to glass? Learn something new every day!! Thats why we call him Lord Skools!