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#31
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The previous owner of my V20 painted all the teak brown. It doesnt look bad and after reading this post I don't know if I want to embark on trying to strip and sand all those trim pieces. I got to say though, Shicks boat looks awesome with those teak deck covers.
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#32
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yeah, my teak was dry and "grainy"I didn't have to sand thru any old finish but I had to remove a good amount of old wood to get down into fresh lumber.
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#33
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phester, glad it came out ok. While I had my rod boxes out and the teak out, I painted them with a bright white roll on paint. I also added a strip of fiberglass tape to the edges because they were cracking. I backed up the wall of the cap behind the opening so whe you reattach the boxes, you have more wall to sink the screws into.
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#34
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phat, if I don't get new boxes ,I will do the same.....I like that additional wood backing idea. what kind of paint /primer did you use?
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#35
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I should have mentioned this before, but I didn't think about it. One thing that will save ALOT of sanding is to pressure wash your teak before you start to sand. It's very difficult to get that old ashy color off, alot of sandiing. I you pressure wash it, that color goes right away. Let it dry for awhile and lightly sand it.
Sorry I'm so behind the ball with that one Scott
__________________
If your not living on the edge.....your taking up space. |
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#36
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It was just white oil based enamel. I painted my deck with Glidden porch paint and that stuff held up really well. The area under my pedastal seats got soft and I had to replace from the cabin back to the fishbox. I used West epoxy and this is why I have to paint the deck. I used the Brightside enamel (Interlux $30 @ qt.) and it last one season. I used the porch paint($15 gal.) and it last 4 seasons. I saw in an earlier post Skool used some garage floor paint and had good results.
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#37
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yeah it's lasted 4 seasons no wear anywhere
__________________
1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's |
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#38
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Finished off some of remaining teak with Ipe instead. There was a strip across the top of the splashwell, above the door to access the batteries, and instead of going straight across like original, I went accross an mitered returns to cap the whole well. On the gunnels, about midships are the two pieces to step on while boarding, originals were in poor shape,didn't want to try and salvage them, just to cracked,brittle and thin. Lastly I needed to stand off the gunnel mounts for the Attwood multi-positional rod holders. I wish the all the brightwork on the boat was all this Ipe wood.This material is like iron,tough to sand and hard on your tools. The rich color and beautiful grain is,in my opinion, nicer than teak. Forgot to mention it weighs a ton, that's probably why it's so tough. Almost ready to go back together, flounder season opens in another two weeks or so
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#39
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This winter, i decided to do a major re-wire project and replace the dash. vic built me a one out of Ipe and you are right, it looks great. It is a little darker than teak and I fnished it with Armada instead of Cetol. How did your rod boxes come out?
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#40
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Iv'e never heard of Ipe wood. Some good stuff Huh. I refinished my gunrack style rod holders, they were not teak. I wonder if it is this Ipe stuff. The color was alot darker with a little red tint. I assumed it was mahogany.
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If your not living on the edge.....your taking up space. |
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