Lower Unit Screws

[Blue_Runner]

Willy, sounds like it could possibly not be all water? New washers on those screws, fresh clean lube and check or change the oil again after 10 or 20 hrs of operation to make sure ;)

[reelapeelin]

Hey, MJ!!!...from what you said about you and oil-systems the other day, this Seal-Lube is YOUR stuff!!... ;) ;D...I might get a can of that just to have around...in case I spring a leak in one of my several lube systems... ::)...

Willy, if that gearcase holds up to a pressure-test, maybe the techs that did the service used some kinda ''white'' oil...Heck, get Fillet to ask the guys WHAT they used...

[willy]

Thanks Blue and Rap, I'm waiting to hear back from Fillet, he tried calling last night I wasn't home. I ordred that stuff from Lord Skools post this morning, nice guy, emailed me back with some instructions. I went out this morning and looked at that oil(?) and there is about a table spoons worth of water in there. Thats it. Like I said I've seen lower unit oil that had water in it and you would see like swirls of whitish in it. Not the case hear which is why I don't understand. Solid clean off white so maybe Skools hit it on the head. I'm replacing those screws and washers and going to put that sealer in with new oil and check after a couple of days of running thanks all for the advise I'll let you know ;)

[willy]

it keeps changing the word spoon to thingy what the h@ll

[Airslot]

The reason you don't see much water is that lower unit oil is designed to hold water. It won't seperate out like if you mix oil and water in a jar. Lower unit oil can absorb something along the lines of 25% water and still be effective. Keeps from grenading your lower unit.

Airslot

[willy]

Thanks Airslot did not know that, my other outboards over the years when I would change the oil I could definetly see water and after awhile it would seperate out even more.

[Skools Out]

Willy you'll need to run your lower unit after putting that sealant in it. It should run about 10 min or so better off to run it out of the water on muffs so it's not under water. just put it in gear and let it run in gear for about 10 min that will work it in all the seals. You will find some water after so use no matter what all units will. They get hot then you take it out of the water run the motor on muffs to flush and the temp change cause's condensation.

[willy]

Just an info update for you guys, in case you run into the same type of problem. There is a well respected boat shop near here and I found out the following. Though I still could have a leak if I have had any water in there it is likely coming thru the washerless screw on the unit. Also the consistency I had in the white oil is not consistent with water in it, several marinas and shops at least in NJ use an very inexpensive oil in the lower units called Lubriplate, and it is white to off white in color, and cheap. Lot of places stopped using it because it was hard to tell if water was in it. Also if you get a service done on your lower unit and you are told it was pressure tested that is only half of it, it also has to be vacum tested because there are back to back seals. The third thing is if you have any doubts about what you have in your lower unit you should flush it before filling it again with clean oil because the the old stuff and water will contaminate it and you won't get an accurate picture of what is going on. To flush it you use Mineral Spirits. Put it in and let it sit and then drain it all and let it seep for a couple of hours. Then use clean oil and fill I'm sure some of you guys know these things already but I did'nt and wanted to put it out there

[Skools Out]

been there know it but DO NOT USE Mineral Spirits
it will melt your rubber seals. use new lube and run a couple pumps through it till the oil lube all runs out and begins to be new clean lube.

[willy]

Wow Skools why would the guy tell me that :-X lucky I put it out here first. I will do what you say. Apparently that is what they do in his shop. Unbelievable .