Trouble in Paradise - Page 2

#11 04-01-2005, 12:48 AM

As for the electrical did you check the fuse on the motor my mercury did that and all it was a 20 amp fuse.

bigshrimpin · #12 04-01-2005, 06:01 AM

Blue - Here's a link to a properly done transom rebuild through the rear skin.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/hammers20CCpage2.htm

Sounds like theres some large air pockets trapped under the outside skin of your transom. If the transom is solid and the wood is dry, then drill some holes into the skin in the "hollow areas" air pockets and inject epoxy resin to fill the voids. as for the crack . . . just grind it out and use a fairing compound to fill in the area.

reelapeelin · #13 04-01-2005, 09:14 AM

Thanks, BS...I knew there was something to shoot in there...will fairing restore the structural strenghth?... ???

Blue_Runner · #14 04-01-2005, 12:26 PM

First, let me say - I love ya'll.

Knightfisher - I can't believe I didn't think of checking that fuse first!! I hope that's what it is.

Secondly - BS, the fairing compound you mention, is that the same as Marinetex or is it something else? Also, where can I get the epoxy resin, and what brand? I've only had experience with Marinetex thus far (and lot's of it ;D). One last thing - I suppose I would use an expoxy syringe to inject with, correct?

Thanks guys for the quick help. With fishing season at hand this is no time to mess around!

Thanks,
BR

fillet1 · #15 04-01-2005, 05:27 PM

Blue Runner

BigShrimpin has it right.

The epoxy you should use is west systems. I believe you can make a fairing compund out of it also with the proper additives.

bigshrimpin · #16 04-01-2005, 10:48 PM

Reel - If Blue has been running the boat for 2 years and the transom wood is dry and the transom doesn't flex . . . I'd have to conclude that the transom crack is just cosmetic and probably a result of the air pockets (voids). Grinding out a narrow 4inch crack and filling it won't effect the structural integrity of the transom.

Epoxy for injecting into the voids => Systems Three 2:1 or west systems will work well. West marine or any other fiberglass supply store will should carry these (both website have a list of resellers). Syringes are available at west marine or pet supply places.

Epoxy fairing compound . . . . Systems Three "Quick Fair".
Goes on like butter.

BR - Just for piece of mind . . . I'd recommend drilling a few holes into the questionable area. If you're going to patch it anyway you can always fill those holes.

Grind out with 50 or 80 grit disc, clean with acetone, quick fair, block sand, acetone, prime and paint.

Blue_Runner · #17 04-04-2005, 11:06 AM

Thanks BS. First things first, the motor has to be pulled.

Will get it pulled most likely tonight. Thanks for the info.

Do you think one layer of quik fair is going to do it? Or should I do 2 thin layers with cleaning and sanding in between??

Blue_Runner · #18 04-04-2005, 12:52 PM

Franco, by the way, you were right about the fuse! Blown sure enough. I've got to pick up a couple of those.

#19 04-04-2005, 08:49 PM

Ok Blue let's give credit where it's due i told you about the fuse ;D

Jester · #20 04-05-2005, 03:19 PM

If you decide you want to try this, here's a good company I deal with. They have great prices (especially compared to West Marine and Boater's World kind of chains). They carry EVERYTHING too.... tools, glass, even kevlar, for boats, surfboard, and windsurfer building. I didn't buy my resins from them to avoid the Haz Materials shipping charges, but I bought everything else from them including a GOOD RESPIRATOR.... for less than half what Boater's World wanted for it.

http://fiberglasssupply.com/

What materials you ad to the epoxy to make the compound sort of depends on the size of the crack and a few other things. I got a couple books from the library and the used books section of Amazon.com. The main thing to remember is SMALL BATCHES of resin, and pray for some good weather for the cure.

Good luck.