My motor puked all over it's self!

[Skools Out]

are the pistons flat top pistons?
do they look like this?


or do they look like this?

[shicks007]

Skools,

They are flat top pistons.

BTW I am running my VRO still. My old pump crapped out a couple of years ago and made the call to put on a brand new latest generation fuel pump. If and when I get this motor fixed, I will premix my fuel and monitor the oil consumtion in my oil tank to make sure it's using oil.


For you O/I guys. My buddy and I have a running joke about I/O vs outboard. When he found out I had to get towed the other day he said, " See, you need one of those big engine boxes to keep an eye on your tow vehichle." Nice buddy huh :D

[Skools Out]

Flat tops are loopers and it should be a 3.500" bore motor. If you have to bore it just bore to a big bore piston. works out great. I've got an 85 i bored to a 1988 up big bore 3.6875" just have to use 1988 up head gaskets.. it basically makes your motor a late model power head. They oiled better than the old 3.500 did. Have you opened the block yet? I have one torn all the way down right now. It's an 1988 Evinrude 140. Has a cracked sleeve. ???

[shicks007]

Thanks Skools,

I'll let ya'll know what I find, probably tonight. I'm hoping I don't have to go through all that, but then again, I don't have any experience with these things. With that said..............................I aint scared either.


What do you think it would cost me to bore it out and all the other stuff that goes along with a rebuild?

[shicks007]

I just came in for the night (11:55 pm). I have the carbs and intake off. I still can't spot anything looking up into the crankcase. It's very hard to pinpoint the area that the "noise" is coming from. I could be convinced it's coming from the center bearing on the crank, is this the crank ring you were refering to? I thought at one point it was the top crankshaft bearing, so I pulled that, no such luck >:(

I left my manual at work again today, so I wasn't sure what all had to be removed to seperate the block.

[Skools Out]

all the block flange bolts and remove the 6 crank case bolts one is allen type on the top right side.

[shicks007]

I got the crankcase off this afternoon. I found the problem, the lower crank bearing. It looks like the seal in the lower bearing housing was letting water in and corroded the bearing, it was pretty pitted. Anyway the bearing and cage was toast.

Here's my thoughts, what do you think. Replace the bearing and gaskets, run a hone through the cylinders lightly and install a new set of rings to freshi'n up the compression a little. Last compression test was 115, 135, 135 and 125.

[Skools Out]

here is a good site to get parts from. they have about everything you need. i would lightly ball hone the cylinders and either buy new rings or cleanthe old ones in laquer thinner and clean behind them which you will have to do anyway and put it back together with the old cleanedones. just put the ringsbackon the piston they came from. i did that to a 225 and the compression before was 65 to 70 on most and 25 to 30 others. cleaned and got the carbon outof the ring grooves in the pistons lightly hones with a (ball home required) and put back together checked compression had 90 to 92 on all 6 cylinders. i was right on the books factory specs.


http://www.powerheadkit.com/Looper%20V4%20parts.htm

You will need Gel Seal to seal the crank case back together or can buy 1211 Crank case bond. 1211 is stronger usually used in high hp high compression jet ski race motors but works great on outboards. in place of J/E assembly lub just use Marvil Mystery Oil as assembly lub. will burn away after motor warms up and is great break in oil.

Here's the 1211 Bond avail on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1211-...spagenameZWD1V




Gel Seal is avail on the link for parts above. Gel Seal has a shelf life. 1211 Bond doesn't

[76GMC1500]

If your cylinders aren't tapered, there is no reason to bore it. *You may have to take it to a machine shop to verify this. *If you're lucky, they wont even charge you. *A ball hone can be had for >$30 and can be run with a hand drill. *Ball hones are harder to make mistakes with than conventional stone type hones. *Don't cheat yourself and reuse the rings, buy new ones. *A pitted bearing is usually caused by fatigue. *Rolling element bearings have a very finite fatigue life, the rollers are moving around and each time they pass over a surface, it goes into compression and then relaxes. *Eventually, the surface will become brittle and flake away. *This type of wear is called spalling. *When everything is back together, break it in like a new motor.

Aviation Form-a-Gasket works great as a sealant between crankcase halves but is difficult to disassemble. Permatex #2 will work. Permatex MotoSeal for motorcycles will also work great. There are also 2 MotoSeals, get the more permanent one. It's white while the less permanent MotoSeal is gray.

[Skools Out]

how's the motor going? here's one like yours i have torn down in my garage.

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