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#11
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The pictures are in modifications section I believe. My computer with the pictures is in getting fixed.
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 88 V-20200 G2 
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#12
08-26-2013, 08:40 PM
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__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God)  Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless.
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#13
10-12-2013, 06:39 AM
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I recently swapped that trailer for a biggere one. The dealer was very good about it, he gave me a much better trailer at no cost. I still had to do a little roller moving and sliding the bow roller around. It is a Venture with 20 rollers has a 3 X 5 tube. It still hangs off back 12-14". I can't bring the bow roller bracket forward anymore because the keel is too close to the frame of trailer. You think it will be ok like this?
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Tight Lines !!
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#14
10-12-2013, 10:10 AM
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nope.... still not supporting the transom.... I would shoot for 1-3" of overhang .... look into height adjustment.. if you can raise the bow and or lower the stern you can move her forward... You could even put a keep roller on the back of that front cross member the tongue hooks to.
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#15
10-12-2013, 10:14 AM
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actually looking again, likely all you need is the keel roller... I had a very similar trailer and I put a self centering keel roller there... LOVED it..... ALSO you could install a longer tongue if needed.... I did that too. I just bought the correct tubing and cut to length n drilled the holes to bolt it up
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#16
10-12-2013, 12:37 PM
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If you're set on keeping that trailer, buy a longer tongue so you have more room to play with, then move your winch post forward about a foot or so and then put a center keel roller on that front cross member to protect your keel. Chances are that when you winch her further forward you'll have to readjust some of your rear rollers as she rises up on the new front roller, and possibly you may need to move your axles for proper tongue weight, but those are just adjustments that everyone has to make anyways. (And on a side not, it the dealer (East Coast Trailers?) took your other trailer back, and then gave you this trailer in it's place... and both times said it was the right size for your boat, I would run... not walk... away from him and never give him another cent of my hard earned dollars. He's obviously interested in either just making money, or doesn't know the first thing about properly fitting a boat onto a trailer).
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. Last edited by Destroyer; 10-12-2013 at 12:42 PM.
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#17
10-13-2013, 08:27 PM
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Thanks for all your input, I will swap out the piece of rubber with a keel roller and go with bunks in the rear to help with the support, after I try and bring it forward even more. Any recommendations on what kind of material to use for bunks that wouldn't flex, even a little. I was thinking of heavy gauge 2 X 2 x 1/4 Galv. steel angle with a pressure treated 2 X 6 on it which I can change easy enough every couple of seasons. I happen to have the 2" angle.
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Tight Lines !!
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#18
10-13-2013, 09:43 PM
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bunks in the rear will NOT help with support... rollers are just fine...
by design bunks NEED to flex to conform to the hull... you can not extent bunks off the back of the trailer to support the transom as they only actually support the hull in the areas where the brackets support the bunks... just get the boat moved forward and you'll be fine Last edited by smokeonthewater; 10-14-2013 at 08:49 AM.
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#19
10-13-2013, 11:42 PM
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The only thing I can add is that IF you want bunks, then by all means install them. But do it because you want them, not because you think they will solve your problem. As for your bunk design with the angle iron and then the 2 x 6 on top of it, that's way overkill. Just get yourself the proper supports for a bunk style setup and use some 2 x 6 or even 2 x 4 covered with some nice outdoor carpet. I like 2 x 6 for the added 2" lift, but I've seen tons of trailers with 2 x 4's. And if you really want to get fancy, then put a non-stick strip on the top of each bunk. (Look on eBay) They really do make a hella difference in sliding your boat on and off the trailer.
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless.
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#20
10-14-2013, 01:50 PM
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mawshj
most v20's came with dual wheel trailers. the weight of the boat ,gas ice chest ,& all other eqip. + the trailer easy gets you to 400 lbs or more. My trailer is a single axle designed for the v20 and it uses load range e tires. If you intend to pull this boat at highway speeds in the heat of summer check the tire spec's ALSO
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