Calling all Merc Mechanics - Page 10

randlemanboater · #91 02-19-2007, 08:21 PM

I am going to check all this stuff.

I bought a waterpump kit 2day, I've never done one but I know yous guys will guide me.

Also going to check the poppet valve.

Yep, we carry .177 cal here.

randlemanboater · #92 02-19-2007, 08:21 PM

I am going to check all this stuff.

I bought a waterpump kit 2day, I've never done one but I know yous guys will guide me.

Also going to check the poppet valve.

Yep, we carry .177 cal here.

76GMC1500 · #93 02-19-2007, 10:05 PM

The water coming out of the pissers should be warm, this means it has picked up heat within the engine and carried it out. *If it's hot, that means the water is spending too much time in the engine/there isn't enough flow. *This is a sign of a bad water pump. *If the water is cool, but the engine is hot, this means the water is bypassing the engine and just going through the manifolds. *This indicates a stuck thermostat. *If the pee stream is cold and the engine is cold, this indicates a thermostat that has failed open. The fact that you said the engine is loder than normal also indicates a lack of water flow and now I can say with some confidence that your pump is bad.

76GMC1500 · #94 02-19-2007, 10:05 PM

The water coming out of the pissers should be warm, this means it has picked up heat within the engine and carried it out. *If it's hot, that means the water is spending too much time in the engine/there isn't enough flow. *This is a sign of a bad water pump. *If the water is cool, but the engine is hot, this means the water is bypassing the engine and just going through the manifolds. *This indicates a stuck thermostat. *If the pee stream is cold and the engine is cold, this indicates a thermostat that has failed open. The fact that you said the engine is loder than normal also indicates a lack of water flow and now I can say with some confidence that your pump is bad.

spareparts · #95 02-20-2007, 10:36 AM

just remember to put the drive in fwd gear before you take it off, that way when you put it back on, you can keep the shift shaft in time.

spareparts · #96 02-20-2007, 10:36 AM

just remember to put the drive in fwd gear before you take it off, that way when you put it back on, you can keep the shift shaft in time.

randlemanboater · #97 02-20-2007, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spareparts

just remember to put the drive in fwd gear before you take it off, that way when you put it back on, you can keep the shift shaft in time.

Thanks for the tip, several people have told me that getting the shift shaft correct is the hardest part of a waterpump job, but no one offered any advise.

randlemanboater · #98 02-20-2007, 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spareparts

just remember to put the drive in fwd gear before you take it off, that way when you put it back on, you can keep the shift shaft in time.

Thanks for the tip, several people have told me that getting the shift shaft correct is the hardest part of a waterpump job, but no one offered any advise.

spareparts · #99 02-20-2007, 02:53 PM

think about the shift shaft in clock positions( looking over head after you pull the lower unit). 12 is fwd, 10:30 is neutral, 9 is reverse. 1 thru 8 will appear as neutral, but its not. Keeping it in fwd( and the controll box) will allow you to rotate the propshaft to spin the driveshaft to help puttuing the housing on the impeller and to align the driveshaft splines when you put it back on. Put a little grease on the splines( driveshaft and shift shaft when reassembling) and get someone to help you hold it up while your getting everything aligned, it also helps to have the engine trimmmed down so everthing aligns correcetly. After you get a nut on it, pull it up a little( so the shfit shaft slines are ingaged) and get your helper to shift the mototr from fwd, neutral and back to reverse while you're spinning the prop by hand, it should lock in fwd one direction, freewheel in neutral, and lock in revers. Better to find out now if the shifting is off rather than wait for you to get all the nuts and bolts tight. If the shifting isn't correct, drop the lower unit and start over( remember to put the shifter back in fwd before your helper gets out of the boat)

spareparts · #**100** 02-20-2007, 02:53 PM

think about the shift shaft in clock positions( looking over head after you pull the lower unit). 12 is fwd, 10:30 is neutral, 9 is reverse. 1 thru 8 will appear as neutral, but its not. Keeping it in fwd( and the controll box) will allow you to rotate the propshaft to spin the driveshaft to help puttuing the housing on the impeller and to align the driveshaft splines when you put it back on. Put a little grease on the splines( driveshaft and shift shaft when reassembling) and get someone to help you hold it up while your getting everything aligned, it also helps to have the engine trimmmed down so everthing aligns correcetly. After you get a nut on it, pull it up a little( so the shfit shaft slines are ingaged) and get your helper to shift the mototr from fwd, neutral and back to reverse while you're spinning the prop by hand, it should lock in fwd one direction, freewheel in neutral, and lock in revers. Better to find out now if the shifting is off rather than wait for you to get all the nuts and bolts tight. If the shifting isn't correct, drop the lower unit and start over( remember to put the shifter back in fwd before your helper gets out of the boat)