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#1
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It's been a while, but I've completed the stringer replacement project. I used one of the old ones as a template and cut two new stringers. I shaped them with a belt sander until they fit almost perfectly, coated the bottoms and the ends with resin for protection from water seapage, gave it enough time to harden, and then dropped them into place. Before I did, though, I scrubbed the hell out of the bilge area. This was not only long over due, but necessary to allow the fiberglass and paint to stick later. I measured about twenty times and adjusted the stringers until they were perfectly centered. Then I cut a couple of spacers to hold them the right distance apart. From the other side of the first bulkhead I drove a couple of screws into the end of the stringers to hold them in place.
![]() ![]() Then the first batch of fiberglass went on. We did the ends first, again to help hold them in place. Then we laid a long piece that wrapped the entire stringer and extended about 6 inches on both sides. ![]() It took several sessions with drying and grinding time in between, but the result was pretty good for a couple of amateurs! We put some reinforcement on both ends and along the top of the stringer, and two strips of heavy weave along the inside of each stringer right at the point where the motor will be mounted. We're not sure if there's any structural benefit to doing this, but what the hell. We had some extra materials! I sanded the entire bilge area so that I would have a good surface for the "Bilgekote" paint that I bought at West Marine. I applied two coats of bright white (an upgrade over the grey that I used to have), and it turned out great! ![]() It took a long time, but I'm glad I did this. Since the motor was out anyway, it was a really good opportunity, and it was definitely needed.
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Olivia Grace - 1980 Stern Drive Cuddy |
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#2
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It's really simple work, just labor intensive. *It doesn't take any really special skills.
Don't be affraid to use that grinder to rough things up where you want the fiberglass to stick. Fiberglassin on top of the bilge paint puts a lot of faith in the bond between the paint and the hull. |
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#3
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Good work, Now get the motor in and getter wet. ;)
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#4
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Cliff, that's quite a project and a job well done 8) ... the Bilge Coat REELY highlighted a good job ;) ...thanks for the pix and hope we see more on the engine install ;D ...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#5
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Great Job!!!!!!!!!!! You shoud never worry about them again!!
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#6
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Perty work Cliff ;) You are now the subject matter expert and will be called upon any time a board member has this issue. Congrats on your new appointment as V20 Stringer Repair SME!
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1994 Wellcraft V21 |
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#7
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looks good, nice job there
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1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's |
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#8
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Cliff, looking really good there buddy.
I'm not sure I agree with the sentiment that anybody can pull this off or that it's altogether easy. I know it would be quite a task for myself and I hope I never have to do it. But if I do, I now know where to go for good info on how to do it. Thanks for the tutorial and pics. Steve
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1990 Hydrasports 2000cc Vector with 96 200HP Oceanrunner. Saved by grace alone, through faith alone, in Christ alone http://www.providencerpchurch.com/ |
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#9
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I enjoy the Flash Card moment. Its the only way I understand whats going on around here. ;D
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#10
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awsome pics ..... nice job looks like a lot of work :o ;D
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1987 Dual Console / 2007 200 hp E-Tec |
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