How to: *Convert drum to disk trailer brakes - Page 2

Airslot · #11 01-30-2007, 07:31 PM

REEL, going back to my bleeder problem, it was all on me. After I was done I called Kodiak to talk to them about my problem. They explained to me that the actual bleed screw was screwed into the brass fitting that threaded into the caliper. I was working the whole thing as opposed to the smaller bleed screw...Hope that made sense. The bottom line...it was my fault and I got to talk to a reel sweetheart in Texas. ;D

Airslot

reelapeelin · #12 01-31-2007, 02:24 AM

Glad ya got to the bottom of the problem...now if ya could just get to the bottom of that Texas Sweetie :o ... 8) ...

reelapeelin · #13 01-31-2007, 02:46 AM

This on THT...

I have a 2004 Sealoin trailer with brakes. I like it now, but it did give me a large problem in my 2nd year. The brake actuator was mounted to the frame with two, large, through bolts. After towing for one season I started to hear a squeak from the trailer. Thinking it was the springs, I didn't think to much about it and kept on towing. One day, after a long day on the boat, I backed in my yard and saw the front bolt had ripped though the frame. Yea, oh Sh*@, is right! I took some pictures of it and sent them into Sealion. It took some time, but they did send replacement parts. I had to fix it myself because Sealion didn't have anyone in the area to fix it and the trailer was unsafe to tow to them. Besides, the boat was still on the trailer! I now have three bolts holding it. Two in front, one on each side of the actuator and frame and one through bolt in the rear. This year I am going to put a piece of tube in the frame on the rear bolt so I can use my impact on it and really make it tight & not collapse the whole thing. The two bolts in front, let me put some torque on them without collapsing the frame or the actuator, because they are not through bolts. If I used a through bolt and tighten it, the brake actuator could get pinched & not slide properly. I strongly suggest every one puts two bolts in the front. One on each side, instead of a through bolt.

Hey Slot...might wanna think about a little welding...I did ;) ...

Airslot · #14 01-31-2007, 04:17 PM

REEL, I read that on THT. Good points moade for sure. There are 4 mounting holes in my actuator. I'll make use of all 4. Don't know about welding, sure glad my last one wasn't welded...

Airslot

reelapeelin · #15 01-31-2007, 04:38 PM

The actuator on mine before had 4 beads in strategic places...took a side-grinder to those and she popped right off... ;D ...and the newest one's got the same weld points ;) ...

Hey...you did prime the damper on that new actuator, dinya?... ;) ...

Airslot · #16 01-31-2007, 04:58 PM

Why yes sir, my damper was pumped and primed. ;) No banging or jerking starting or stopping. All in all, I couldn't be any happier with the finished project.

Another point, your not supposed to use stainless bolts to attatch the actuator. Grade 5 Hardened is the ticket here.

Airslot

reelapeelin · #17 01-31-2007, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airslot

All in all, I couldn't be any happier with the finished project.

Another point, your not supposed to use stainless bolts to attatch the actuator. Grade 5 Hardened is the ticket here.

I'm real happy w/ this actuator...think you'll be too...totally agree w/ your choice of thru-bolts, but concerned about scenerio like the THT post...holes COULD (not sayin' they will) waller out...just felt like a little "melted-metal'' would help, but I usually lean toward overkill on somethin' like this
;) ...

randlemanboater · #18 01-31-2007, 09:31 PM

Nice job on the install there AS.

If'n you don't ever dunk em, they should last a long, long time.