Guess who was TOWED in today ?? - Page 5

Blue_Runner · #41 05-31-2006, 12:18 PM

Found some old posts that show the motor and give all of the details...
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/cgi-bin/...0658;start=0#0
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/cgi-bin/...56;start=11#11
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/cgi-bin/...action=search2

As you can see, I originally wanted alot more than $1200!! But at this point, I'll take a win-win if I can help MJ out PLUS get this thing outta my yard!

MJ, the negative points I see about this motor are:

1) That shift rod issue. I don't think this one has been replaced and as you can see, there's a fair amount of rust in that vicinity.
2) The weak turnover at startup. When you hit the key there's a 1 or 2 second hesitation, then starts to spin as normal. Most likely just the starter ???
3) Sitting 10 months under a tarp.

What about UPS'ing your head to Skools and let him fix that piston? There's a thought. Either way, we are here to help a brother out! I was looking forward to seeing those fluke pics again this year :'(

If you want to talk by phone, PM me and I'll give you my #. Or, PM me your number and I'll call you from my work phone and it won't cost us anything! (I'm a cheap bastard :D).

Blue

Skools Out · #42 05-31-2006, 12:39 PM

with 0 compression it is most likely major. usually when you have a ring break only it will still have compression around 30 or so psi. With 0 i'd say not to good. take the head off lets see if the walls are to bad to just hone. if it needs a bore job you'd need to bore all to be same on balance of the motor. to bore them all and buy oversized piston kit for motor plus gasket set. it would be better to part out motor and buy BR's.

macojoe · #43 05-31-2006, 12:54 PM

Thanks guys!!

I think my motor is to far gone to bother with, and the cost to make it better is not worth it to me.

As for your motor, I have full set of working carbs and reeds, I looked up the parts and they are the same number.

As for the shifting rod, I have a 4 year old one in mine that is stainless, that I had put in right after I got the motor.

Slow start?? I have 2 starters here for it,if t6hats the problem??

So it seems best to go with your deal then to stay with mine.

I have never done a shift rod, and I know it means pulling the power head, But I know for a fact that BS did his with his dad in the yard and it wasn't all that bad.

So I am sure that I can handle that.

I think I am going to stick with yours as my best option for the moment.

Blue_Runner · #44 05-31-2006, 01:01 PM

MJ, its here and its not going anywhere. ;)

I'm in a big mess right now remodeling my house, but if I can find the time, I'll see about doing another compression check to make sure nothing has changed in the last 10 months.

chumbucket · #45 05-31-2006, 02:28 PM

BR's motor should have a stainless steel shift rod from the factory if I'm not mistaken. I think they made that change somewhere around '92 or thereabout.

bigshrimpin · #46 05-31-2006, 03:02 PM

CB's right . . . 1993 was the first year of the stainless shift rod.

Geekie1 · #47 05-31-2006, 03:12 PM

MJ, Sorry to hear about your problem. I think the problem could be a burned piston. (hole in it) You can burn a hole in a piston if you get crud blocking a circuit in a carb causing the motor to run lean. Also the float needle seat getting clogged will definitely cause a lean condition. Running lean causes the piston to overheat burning a hole in it. If I were you I would pull the head to check the piston. It may be possible that you can replace just the piston and rings. If the piston has a hole in it, the center carb feeding the cylinder would most likely have caused the problem. If you replace the piston, pull the carbs clean and rebuild them. Check the center carb especially!!

Did you say that the bottom of the oil pump fell off?? If that was so then there should have been oil all over the lower cowel on the starboard (right) side. (looking back at the engine) Lack of oil would cause so much damage to bearings and crankshaft that the engine would probably seize permanently and the engine would not turn over even after cooling. The power head would definately be junk.

I would pull the head to check the cylinder out in any case!!!

76GMC1500 · #48 05-31-2006, 03:37 PM

You can hone the cylinder yourself using a ball hone available at your better automotive parts stores. Hole in the piston is a common 2-stroke ailment and is sometimes easily repaired. It would also explain your hot bank.

Skools Out · #49 05-31-2006, 04:11 PM

a ball hone is what you need after using a standard flat hone. the ball hone will not keep the hole round like the flat hone will, but must run a ball hone in both directions to take the birs off the ports in the cylinder walls.

Blue_Runner · #50 05-31-2006, 05:13 PM

;)
Skools is right - my old lady honed my head last night and THEN used the ball hone. It was out of site!! :o