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  #21  
Unread 02-27-2006, 12:02 PM
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Geekie1 Geekie1 is offline
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Default Re: TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUT

I am in the process of re-doing the teak on my V20. I am using Cetol Light and the teak looks great. I have used Cetol on the teak on other boats I have owned, and I have also used teak oil and other products. IMHO, there is no better, longer lasting finish than Cetol. The Cetol light gives a natural looking satin finish which looks like oiled teak but doesn't darken the wood too much. It is kind of expensive, but it lasts at least 3-4 years and then needs to be scuffed up with a plastic 3M pad and given a new coat. The regular Cetol Marine darkens the teak in my opinion. I don't work for Sikkens Cetol and have no association with people who sell their products.
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  #22  
Unread 02-27-2006, 10:49 PM
phester phester is offline
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Default Re: TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUT

well I had my hands on the Cetol and next to it [among a few other brands] was the Armada. Was told by two reps. at two different stores that Cetol and Armada were at one time or another the same company. Both guys said the same thing....Cetol is an excellent product, but it is a two stage process....three coats of "pigment" and then three coats of "sealant", each can about 27.00. The Armada is, in essence, the same thing in one can, around 28.00. Both need about 24hrs. between coats. So I thought 1/2 the time,1/2 the labor and1/2 the cost I was sold on the Armada. Hoping I made the right move I started working on it as soon as I got home. Wiped all teak down w/ acetone, last sanding w/400 grit and started laying it on. So far it looks great, a shade darker than anticipated but as it dries ,it's getting a little lighter. The other advantage to the Armada is that you can keep laying it on 3,4,5 years later without having to sand it down again.I hope I get alot of "truth in advertising"
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  #23  
Unread 02-27-2006, 11:19 PM
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Default Re: TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUT

Phester, The last timeI redid the Whaler I used the Armada(for the same reasons you listed). It seems to be working fine.
Geekie1, I didn't know that about the 3m pad. I have been taking the teak down to bare wood and starting over, I'll try the scotch pad method
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  #24  
Unread 02-27-2006, 11:28 PM
phester phester is offline
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Default Re: TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUT

yeah phat, geek is right, you'll need to just rough it up w/ a 3m and reapply when needed
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  #25  
Unread 02-28-2006, 09:16 AM
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Default Re: TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUT

Phester,

Not that I'm an expert at this, but this is what I found out when I researched this last year. It might be a two step process only if you want a real high gloss. You have to have the "1st" step on under it because thats where all the UV inhibitors are. I'm pretty sure this was confirmed from the side of the can. If I get a chance I'll get the can and check it out. BTW I got a can of it on sale at West Marine for $17.99. I only went with the one step Cetol Light Satin. It's been on my deck box covers for maybe 9 months.

I wouldn't waste my time and money on the oil, I did. I bet the nice looking finish didn't last a month.

Scott

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  #26  
Unread 02-28-2006, 10:16 AM
phester phester is offline
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Default Re: TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUT

shicks , your boat looks great, did a nice job on her. It was suggested to me NOT to use the Armada on floor decks or swim platforms because the Armada already has the "poly" built into it, becomes a slip hazard, the Cetol alone,the can you would use in step #1,is better for foot traffic areas. BTW I went w/ the satin rather than the glossier look.
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  #27  
Unread 02-28-2006, 10:32 AM
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Default Re: TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUT

Shicks, you may have just uncovered the original reason I didn't leave teak in my boat...OILING...THAT'S what I kept hearin' was such a PAIN and had to be done so often ::)...not that I'm gonna start jerkin' all the ''tupperware'' outta mine, but I really do like the look teak gives a boat and secretly admire you guys who take the time to carry on a great boatin' tradition ;) 8)...
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  #28  
Unread 03-01-2006, 05:22 PM
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Default Re: TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUTTHE

The Cetol Marine Light I used was a one part application, didn't need to buy a different second can. The recommended number of coats on the teak is determined by the teak being new wood or old weathered teak. Naturally, my teak was very old weathered teak which took some teak cleaner, and then sanding with a ROS. The bilge/battery door by the OB engine well had a teak plywood center panel that had delaminated. I found a boat lumber place in Marathon FL. that had new teak marine plywood that you could buy by the square ft. Believe me, you dont want to buy a 4x8 sheet of teak marine plywood. Buying by the square foot is expensive enough!!! It's almost as expensive as starboard!!!

The teak plywood website is:

www.buckwoodcraft.com
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  #29  
Unread 03-03-2006, 09:56 PM
sfprovyn
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Default Re: TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUT

I used Cetol on my old albemarle about 3 years ago and other than scrapes from dropped sinkers etc, it still looks great and it sits out all the time without a cover. Frank
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  #30  
Unread 03-04-2006, 12:41 AM
phester phester is offline
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Default Re: TEAK QUESTIONS/INPUT

well, it's all done and I must say it came out very nice. Got 4 coats on ,in a satin finish. I'll need to redo or replace the gunnel rod holders, they are sort beat up and now they'll look even worse against the new teak. Hopefully it will be a long time before I need to do that again, not hard, just tedious.
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