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#1
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I have a 1993 V21 and just noticed the other day that the engine mounting bolts and washers for my 150 outboard have broken through the fiberglass. I noticed earlier this year that the aluminum cap they used was pulling away creating a gap for water to enter into which I assume is why it has softened enough for the bolts to start to break through. I am pulling the boat for the season and plan on replacing the transom over the winter or in early spring of next year. Has anyone on here replaced a V21 transom or does anyone have links to more info on it? Also kicking around the idea around of doing away with the splashwell design and replacing it with a traditional style transom and then adding an engine bracket with integrated swim platform. Has anyone ever done this or heard of someone doing this?
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#2
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Definitely looks like something is goin on. Down here rebuilding a transom usually means getting a bigger washer. Destroyer has a lot of experience with the V21 , he should have some advice. Have you tried the search? Seems like another member was also having to go into one.
As far as converting to a normal transom with a bracket, I d look for an I/O or a seadrive model to put a bracket on |
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#3
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Ugh. That's not pretty. I replaced my entire underfloor because of soft decking, and while I did it I also replaced all the foam. Where the splashwell comes thru the transom there is a gap about an inch wide on each side that I filled with putty and then glassed to the transom and stringers, making the splashwell a lot (in my estimation) stronger. But I never had any problem with the transom or the splashwell bubble so I'm really at a loss to say what to do, other than it obviously needs repair. If it were me I would cut across the top, separate the inside and outside halves, remove the rotted wood and pour a new splashwell.
Remember, if you remove the splashwell I don't think you can really call your boat a V21 anymore since it's the bubble sticking out the back of the transom that gives it the extra foot to make it a V21. Of course, if you add a bracket then you could probably call it a V? whatever the length of the bracket is. Seriously, since you're dealing with lots of curves trying to make a new splashwell out of wood might be more than you want to tackle. I'd definitely give thought to pouring. In all cases that's something that needs serious fixing.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#4
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Get a TRANSOM TUFF'NER
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#5
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Here in New Jersey -suggest you call Signature Fiberglass, Joe Whilden.
I had Joe remove the factory transom trim strip, and fiberglass/ fuse the entire section at least 10” down to create a one piece stronger than factory transom. I also had the inside transom cap seam fiberglassed too but that was likely overkill as I wanted the entire transom locked together eliminating the original cap to hull seam. If as it appears your transom is wet, it may require additional work but once done correctly would be good to go . |
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