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  #51  
Unread 09-02-2019, 11:53 AM
Slightly_Twisted Slightly_Twisted is offline
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Well took me a week but I was able to slowly chip away at the fillets. I got them all rounded and sanded on the inside. I’m waiting for a 1/2 hand held belt sander to get the out side done. I was going to get the cheap harbor freight one but went with the amazon one for the free shipping. I get it tomorrow. Sunday I had the morning to myself so I spent 4 hours tabbing in the inside of the stringers. I wanted the best bond to the transom so I but a layer covering the middle 1/3 of the transom. Then tabbed in the stringers and knees with three layers of 1708 tape. 8inch, 10 inch, 16 inch. All wet on wet. had a few hiccups but over all other then my back be sore it came out nice. Only Took one pic, had to take a break and stretch out a little.

They are far from done I need to put a waterproofing layer from the tabbing up and then a cap. I’ll use 1708 from the tabbing to the top and then I have some 6oz cloth for the top waterproofing layer.
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1986 V20 Cuddy in pieces



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  #52  
Unread 09-02-2019, 03:41 PM
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Myfathersson Myfathersson is offline
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Looking good. You'll like that sander, makes quick work of the fillets. I didn't have squat for process pics glassing mine either - time without gloves on was focused on guzzling water! Keep up the good work!
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1987 V20 Center Console - Resto in progress
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  #53  
Unread 09-12-2019, 07:58 PM
Slightly_Twisted Slightly_Twisted is offline
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Took a few days off from working on the boat and work last week almost broke me. 30 hours on the clock in under 48 hours total, between football and a 34 team soccer tournament it took me a few days to recover.

This week I finished tabbing in the stringers. All the sides have 4 layer of 1708 all wet on wet. 8 in-10in-15in-then a 10 in covering any exposed wood. The knees got the same treatment along with adding a few layer to the transom.

I’m going to sand the sides tomorrow and waterproof the tops with two layers of 6oz cloth. Then on to the bulkheads and the side supports.

I never wanted to add foam back to a hull but I’m really thinking about it now. What do you guys think of this. So the outer sides of the stringers in cuddy cabins are not used for rigging. If I fill them with foam to the height of the stringers the shape out a low channel leading to the center line. Then once the foam is shaped to drain to the bilge, glass over them so the foam is 100% sealed and the water if any gets in flows over the glass capped foam.

Thoughts?

I’ll post some pictures tomorrow
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  #54  
Unread 09-12-2019, 08:57 PM
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Sounds like you've got a really stout lamination. Can't wait to see pics.

I too am mulling the foam or no foam question. I incorporated limber holes into each of the panels to the sides of the stringers to handle water - the original pieces didn't have a real method to address water that made it's way down there. The wings weren't formed down to the hull, they all stood a good half inch above, and the glass bridged the gap. What I noticed is that water that got down there flowed through some resin starved sections of that cloth, albeit slowly. Although few of the areas it could flow through were at the lowest point of the cell. If I foam I am going to leave the top of the foam uncapped and rely on the full channel I've created to provide a path for any water that does get there to exit through the limber holes and proceed to the bilge. Since I'm planning to trailer her all the time I'll keep her in a bow up attitude to promote drainage of anything that gets in. My bigger concern is cleaning up the passage that was made in the panel which covers the fuel tank compartment for the steering and throttle cables - they just cut a 4x6 hole in the edge of that panel. It is covered by the center console but I don't think relying on a bead of 4200 around the base of the console to prevent water on deck from making its way there instead of the cockpit drains is the best idea.
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  #55  
Unread 09-13-2019, 04:10 PM
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Foam is there to keep the boat in an upright position (no capsizing). It's not a guarantee that the boat will not sink, since the weight of the boat and items aboard (engine, etc) can effect that. Note that ALL foam will eventually become waterlogged if exposed to water, even the so called closed-cell type. However it will take years if not decades. When I redid my V21, after I removed all the old foam, I made sure all compartments that had new foam in them were sealed as best as possible to prevent any water intrusion.
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  #56  
Unread 09-18-2019, 05:46 AM
Slightly_Twisted Slightly_Twisted is offline
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Well just finished up sealing the stringers in yesterday. I ended up waiting a day to get some new mat. Sealed the top with a layer of 3/4 oz mat and then a layer of 6oz cloth. To make sure I got most if not all air. I fully wetted out the glass then used plastic wrap over the top to hold it down. Worked well.

I had the bow eye pad cut out and some extra resin so I put that in too. Once it was cured I over drilled the hole and then poured in more thickened resin so it will not rot this time.
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1986 V20 Cuddy in pieces



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  #57  
Unread 09-18-2019, 08:41 PM
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Nice progress! Feels good to hit those milestones don't it!?
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  #58  
Unread 09-19-2019, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slightly_Twisted View Post
Well just finished up sealing the stringers in yesterday. I ended up waiting a day to get some new mat. Sealed the top with a layer of 3/4 oz mat and then a layer of 6oz cloth. To make sure I got most if not all air. I fully wetted out the glass then used plastic wrap over the top to hold it down. Worked well.

I had the bow eye pad cut out and some extra resin so I put that in too. Once it was cured I over drilled the hole and then poured in more thickened resin so it will not rot this time.
That's great!

I'm pleased to see you guys making the effort to restore your V-20s. It's got to be gratifying.
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  #59  
Unread 11-11-2019, 05:10 PM
Slightly_Twisted Slightly_Twisted is offline
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Ok so I’ve disappeared since September, it is has been very busy!
Finished off all the stringers, Bulkheads, and side support/ bulk heads.
That really wasn’t that bad, I still had the temps for glassing just slowly picked my way though it. The next phase was where most of the time went. I almost bit off more then I could handle, I was going to buy a bracket mount it and be done, but it didn’t work out at all. I was looking for a used one and couldn’t find it, get 4 different quotes for news ones and the cost just made it impossible. So after reading and re-reading a few different builds I decided to build my own.
I had all the supplies other then the resin, so the whole bracket just cost 10 gallons of resin. What could go wrong hahaha!!

The mold ALMOST broke me. Trying to get the curve of the transom correct, the level of the tub correct, and have both sides identical took almost 2 weeks. I think I ended up redoing the whole frame work three times. I’ll try and describe what ended up working in the next few posts, right now I’m just going to do a photo dump and then edit the posts.


Once I finished up all the internal fiberglass, I drilled out the bilge drain to about 2 1/2 inches, the back filled with thickened resin.
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1986 V20 Cuddy in pieces



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Last edited by Slightly_Twisted; 11-11-2019 at 07:29 PM.
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  #60  
Unread 11-11-2019, 05:11 PM
Slightly_Twisted Slightly_Twisted is offline
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The first picture is of the gas tank area. I couldn’t get it to fit right with a pvc pipe running under the tank so I made a false floor to enclose the tanks from the bilge. The area under the tank is more the enough room for water to flow.

The next is the lay out for the bracket, this wasn’t as bad as I thought. I was able to get all the information marked and was happy with the lay out. The curve on the transom has been a problem from the start, and continues to be a pain. I couldn’t use a straight edge like a level I had to use string and the mark every few inches for any mark going across. So the two semi vertical line on the outside are the edge of bracket tub the are angled about 15 degrees out from the center line. The two horizontal lines are the previous water line the lower one, and the higher up one is the top of the bracket 6 inches above the old water line. Then the bottom of the bracket is 3 inches above the bottom of the transom.

I had a 30 Aluminium sign we took Down from the soccer fields at work and thought it would be perfect for the mold. I ended up getting some melamine boards to use for the sides and back.

Will continue later
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1986 V20 Cuddy in pieces



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Last edited by Slightly_Twisted; 11-12-2019 at 02:27 PM.
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