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#1
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I was wondering is it better to remove the back skin of fiberglass on the transom and then the rotten plywood and replace with Coosa Board and then reglass? I currently have everything remove on transom (engine, platform) except the new tabs I installed. ( have to fight that 5200 on the trim tabs and drain plug. I signed up for a West End fiberglas workshop in February. Again thanks for the inputs
Jet |
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#2
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In my opinion, never cut the back skin.
1. All of those wrap around edges were formed with layers of glass and you will never be able to wrap around the outside corners. 2. The V20 transom IS NOT FLAT.. Once you cut off the outside and remove the wood you will be hard pressed to get back to the original shape. Stop thinking you are going to put one big flat piece of coosa across the stern. It won't be right.
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#3
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At the very least I’d do a thump test and see if you can pinpoint the severity of it. Tapping on it with a hammer you will get 2 very different sounds from wet and dry wood. Dry wood will be a sharp, crisp crack when you hit it. Hit it high on the transom to get used to this sound. When you find moisture it will be a dull thud. Where you’re putting tabs I’d assume if it isn’t from a previous transducer it’s probably where the stringers meet. If this is the case if it doesn’t seem to be very far spread I’d say just recheck for flex regularly and run it.
Don’t cut your outer skin off. Don’t ask me how I know. It’s possible on many boats but as skunk said these transoms are in 3 pieces and there’s no way to recreate the shape and have the skin fit properly. Might look “ok” but it wouldn’t be 100% bonded and solid. Skunks pour method is the way to go but if you’re not getting flex I would try to get a couple more years out her.
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Current boat(s): 1985 V-20 Cuddy/ 470 IB/OB 1972 Egg Harbor 38’ Sedan/ 454 Crusaders |
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#4
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http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...aintenance.pdf
This is a pretty good how to book for basic glass work If i was going to do a transom, I d do skunk s pour methoud and try to address the stringers as well. To do that your talking about cutting off the aft section of the cap or total removal. That link is not working, look in the link section of this site on the second page, bradford posted it under fiberglass repair Last edited by phatdaddy; 01-23-2019 at 01:18 PM. Reason: Bad link |
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#5
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thanks everyone , will look into skunkwork's method, i seen that a few times on you tube. and trying to see what materials i will need. boats in storage, will do thump check when i get over there. will get back to you all when i start thanks again
jet |
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#6
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I drilled a hole for a transducer one time on the V, water came out and I was devastated. Then I looked inside the bilge and saw that the hole I drilled was below where the wood ended, through solid glass...the water had come from inside the boat.
Something to check.
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*************************************** Stay Safe! Sold - 1984 V-20 Cuddy with a 2003 Johnson 140 hp gas sippin 4-stroke. 1995 Ranger 250C with a 2015 Suzuki 300 hp 4-stroke. |
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#7
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Follow Skunks advise, don't cut the outer skin! The hull can twist and change its shape. I had to redo mine back in 06, cut it all out from the inside. Went back with marine plywood and polyester resin I got from Carolina Classic nearby. Turned out great, rock solid! No trouble since but I keep it wrapped up under a shed.
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77 V20 cuddy with 170 I/O Mercruiser 72 16ft. Carolina w/a 25hp Evinrude |
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