1977 v20 and ez load trailer repair

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by Lance Pearson

The structure of the rectangular steel tube depends on all four sides being intact. Replacing a short section of the bottom with solid wood with drain grooves cut in it as an inside "cripple" will effectively accomplish that structurally. The holes drilled in the frame were by EZ loader and do not effect it in any material way as much as not having four sides bracing force against one another lest you drill five holes top to bottom in a row or something silly like that. I can use their holes once the block is in place and snug it in there. Blocks are cut and next warm day I'll go slide them in and snug them down.

Certainly you are entitled to think and do whatever you feel is best for you. When I offer advice here at this site it is exactly that... advice. Although it's usually based upon experience, it's still just advice and it is in no way carved in stone that you *must* do something a certain way. The fact that I have a degree in mechanical engineering and that for a living I used to design and build things out of steel like buildings and machinery should in no way cause you to think that I know anything about steel tubing, structural strengths, load factors, corrosion, etc. I would point out to you though that I did say that if a manufacturer puts holes in a trailer they usually strengthen that area (by increasing the thickness of the steel, or by reducing the loading or employing some other means) to compensate. In all cases since the holes are there already it would seem prudent to make use of them. Just remember that wood will absorb water and hold it against the inside of the steel tubing speeding up any rusting that may occur. Additionally the wood will dry rot over time, so I'd suggest using a pressure treated type of wood instead of salt treated. I know that salt wood is a way of rapidly drying wood, but if done incorrectly it can result in the wood being impregnated with a brine solution that is known for accelerating rust in any metal that it comes in contact with. Personally I'd either weld a plate against the bottom and sides or try to find a piece of tubing that will telescope inside of the existing one.. the tighter the better. If you should eventually wind up going the welding route, just remember that the welding will destroy any paint on the trailer frame at the points of the weld, so make sure you remove any slag and then prime and paint the metal at those spots.

You are aware that most manufacturers sell replacement crossmembers and bunks for the trailers they make at fairly reasonable prices, right? For instance I had to replace the rear crossmember on my Easyload'r trailer a while back and the cost was less than $150.

Understand, I'm talking about crossmembers and bunks here, not the front to rear trailer frame itself. It was difficult to "see" what part of the trailer you were talking about without pictures, which is why I posted the "thread being useless without pictures" imoji. Upon rereading your posts, and looking at the pictures you took of the boat on the link you provided, I'm beginning to think that you're talking about the trailer frame itself, which would account for the holes you mention for the license plate bracket. The other holes might be for moving the axle forward or backwards to adjust your trailer tongue weight, or for guide on bunks or fender attachment points. By the way, how many boats are there? I saw one pic of a boat with 4 pedestal seats, one of a boat with two pedestal seats, one of a boat with blue back to back seats and one pic of a boat with a pedestal seat for the captain and a back to back for the port side. Your boat looks nice by the way. Good find. (Looking at some of your pics you have a good "eye" by the way).

Now for the painful statement... I hate painted trailers. They may be fine for freshwater lakes and rivers but, in my humble opinion, have no place around salt water. Salt eats them alive. Looking at your pictures, it appears that you have a painted trailer and it further appears that the rear of the trailer and the rear of the roller bunks are rotting away. What you can actually see from the outside is probably minor compared to the rust inside the frame itself that you cannot see. Truthfully, I'm not all that sure that your suggested repair will help in the long run. It may get you through a few more seasons but the damage is already done and there is no way I know of to reverse it. Keep your eye out for a good, used, galvanized trailer. Also, check Craigslist for ads such as this for parts. https://newjersey.craigslist.org/bpo/5853676983.html.

Originally Posted by Lance Pearson

I'm pretty confident this will extend the life of the trailer quite a lot. It just got towed 617 miles from Orange Park, Fla to Chester, Va. on I 95...boat followed my suv all the way home at a sedate 65 miles per hour without them.

I like I-95, especially through Georgia, SC and NC. Nice, open towing, easy on both the trailer and the tow vehicle. I used to tow my boat to my Uncles house in Naples Fla in the winter and then back to NJ come summertime. (1300 miles one way) every year.