'79 teardown and rebuild. - Page 2

3 Squids · #11 11-10-2016, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

Can't wait to see how you get the cap off. I need ideas...

I have a forklift in my shop with a 10' long pole on the front for picking up rolls of carpet. I'm planning on reinforcing the cap where I removed the rear section. Make up some sort of lifting harness and yank her on out of there. Well I plan to use a little more finesse than that. I'll definitely get some pics.

I saw your transom pour video. I love the idea of a poured transom/stringers. If it's possible to build some sort of dam to create a temporary inner "skin" for the transom I'd love to pour a new transom. Then remove the dam and laminate. Sound possible? Also I have concern of the strength off the stringers being only 3/4" wide. Any thoughts?

chart · #12 11-11-2016, 04:17 AM

carbon core is the new name for the pour-able Nidacore to the best of my noledge

Redloon · #13 11-11-2016, 07:27 AM

If you build a temporary inner skin make sure it is sufficiently thick or properly braced so it doesn't bow or deform while the compound is curing.

My first pourable transom was made using SeaCast on a 16' PowerCat bass boat. It ended up being over 3" thick in the middle. When the SeaCast was curing a lot of heat was generated and my temporary inner fiberglass skin got soft and deformed. I found out I had a really, really thick transom when drilling it for the motor mount holes.

SkunkBoat · #14 11-11-2016, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3 Squids

I have a forklift in my shop with a 10' long pole on the front for picking up rolls of carpet. I'm planning on reinforcing the cap where I removed the rear section. Make up some sort of lifting harness and yank her on out of there. Well I plan to use a little more finesse than that. I'll definitely get some pics.

I saw your transom pour video. I love the idea of a poured transom/stringers. If it's possible to build some sort of dam to create a temporary inner "skin" for the transom I'd love to pour a new transom. Then remove the dam and laminate. Sound possible? Also I have concern of the strength off the stringers being only 3/4" wide. Any thoughts?

Unfortunately I have no forklift...

Maybe you could use a PVC board template of your transom(poly resin doesn't stick to it)
No problem with 3/4 stringer. just the volume going to be $$$$. But it will save a lot of time and glass and resin.
Carbon Core is in VA so you can get it without shipping.

3 Squids · #15 11-11-2016, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redloon

If you build a temporary inner skin make sure it is sufficiently thick or properly braced so it doesn't bow or deform while the compound is curing.

My first pourable transom was made using SeaCast on a 16' PowerCat bass boat. It ended up being over 3" thick in the middle. When the SeaCast was curing a lot of heat was generated and my temporary inner fiberglass skin got soft and deformed. I found out I had a really, really thick transom when drilling it for the motor mount holes.

Hadn't thought of that. I bet that stuff could expand easily if not braced. I'll take that into consideration for sure thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

Unfortunately I have no forklift...

Maybe you could use a PVC board template of your transom(poly resin doesn't stick to it)
No problem with 3/4 stringer. just the volume going to be $$$$. But it will save a lot of time and glass and resin.
Carbon Core is in VA so you can get it without shipping.

I read that HPDE board is the best to use. As mentioned I'd need to brace it so I'm thinking maybe 2x4 bracing in the backside of the dam. The Carbon Core looks pretty affordable to me. Between the time and money into building a transom and more time consuming building stringers from scratch I think it'll be well worth the money. They are about 1-1/2 hours from me so when time comes I'm ready I'll definitely make a road trip out there and load up. Thanks for the tip.

SkunkBoat · #16 11-12-2016, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3 Squids

I read that HPDE board is the best to use.

HDPE is Starboard...$$$$you would need a 4x8 sheet.
PVC board is cheap.

Besides vinyl, you could use some cheap plywood and cover it with clear packing tape.

When you say "dam" you mean you're going to pour between outer transom and a temporary wall, then remove the wall after it sets and glass over? You need to be sure there are no leaks! (you saw my video).Be aware that the transom on a V20 is not flat across so if you use a flat template or dam, you will be thicker on the centerline. You going to have to think that thru...

I would probably glass a couple layers of skin to the template with excess tabs hanging over sides, pop it loose and glass that in place(keep your 1.5" thickness of transom). Then use the template as a brace for your pour.

3 Squids · #17 11-13-2016, 10:12 AM

Ok. I see. Make a template out of PVC board. "Laminate" that. Seperate those 2 and tab the inner skin in then fill. Seems like a good plan. I guess I can make some sort of jig to curve the template as I glass it then use it again to reinforce the inner skin while I pour.

Unfortunately I haven't gotten to touch the boat this weekend. Trying to shorten the infinite honey-do list as much as I can so when I order $1000 work of fiberglass and core material maybe it will ease the burn. Probably not though.

LESTERUS · #18 11-14-2016, 11:05 AM

Boy, have I got the perfect material for you, there's a company in Miami call Poly-u-mac, they sell a product called Gatorboard, is like a foam sandwidched in between fiberglass, extremely light but very strong. I reinforced the stringers next to the gas tank with it, 1 1/2 I used. Very easy to cut and to work with, I'vee seen a transom made with this material holding 3 300 HP outboards.

3 Squids · #19 11-19-2016, 04:35 PM

Well all you cuddy guys are probably going to curse my name but after I really got into this boat it was obvious that 90% of the wood in it was soaked. Wash boards, sole, cuddy roof...all of it. I drilled test holes everywhere and found everything is wet. Nothing that was screwed to the deck or cuddy top was sealed. So after a few nights of sleeping on it I said F-it. Get the sawzall out!!

My original plan for this boat was center console conversion. Then I tossed the idea of keeping it as is and having one of each. Well I brought my green boat home from the motor guy last week and even he was disappointed with the quality of fiberglass work as he received multiple glass splinters working in the bilge plumbing the motor. So here's the new plan and now there's really no turning back.

Get my green boat put back together good enough to use. I'm going to redo pretty much everything but the actual transom (splashwell, reshaping the transom). The edges of the transom look terrible and the splashwell was pieced together 2x4's and plywood. So I'm going to make it right as possible and put a new paint job on it (I'd stick with the geeen but for some reason it was sanded 8" up the sides so now it all needs paint). Then use the boat while I work on this one.

This boat will be obviously rebuilt from the ground up. My original plan was making a flat cap boat just like Kracker Jacks build. I like the thought of a work boat, skiff type hull. To me it gives you more room and a simpler build. After doing some measuring the sides would be much shorter with a flat cap. I thought about lowering the sole but I'd like to keep it a self bailing deck. So after cutting the cap today I'm thinking about just using this cap to build off of.

I really like the look the boat has with this cap. The plan is to use as much composite as possible. The stringers are 85% hollowed out for me so I'm thinking about a CarbonCore pouring the transom and stringers. As far as the deck and wash boards I haven't researched as much on that yet. I see Coosa and the honeycomb material but not educated enough to know what's the best to use. We will see how this goes and it will be a long process as I'm in no rush to hurry this thing and do something I'll regret.

Anyways and suggestions from you guys as far as materials to use and things like that are very welcome. And sorry SkunkBoat about not pulling the cap.

3 Squids · #20 11-19-2016, 05:28 PM

Also I have many parts I pulled off the boat that will be free for the taking for anyone here. I got all the glass in good shape, dash with helm and steering cable in good shape I believe. Sliding hatch (2 piece slider), fishing rod boxes, all the trim from the cuddy door, folding cuddy door with the glass in good shape. Let me know what ya need. I may have it. Oh and I guess this enclosure I have will be no good for me. It's a Bimini frame, sliding mounts for the gunnel and the canvas and vinyl.