3Squids '79 Center Console thread

[bradford]

A lower has some weight to it, but is a relatively small compact package. I'll bet shipping isn't a deal breaker.

Might ask Spareparts, he might have some experience with them.

[Destroyer]

When I bought a lower for my 200hp Mercury 2.5L to convert it from a 20" to a 25" I think the total cost for shipping was less than $50... and that included the lower and the mid extension unit. Shipping shouldn't be that much.

[3 Squids]

Originally Posted by Destroyer

When I bought a lower for my 200hp Mercury 2.5L to convert it from a 20" to a 25" I think the total cost for shipping was less than $50... and that included the lower and the mid extension unit. Shipping shouldn't be that much.

Nice. Did you go with SEI? If so how has it performed?

[3 Squids]

So I got the boat back today with a running motor!! Motor sounds great. I was talking to the motor guy and he believed the lower unit will be fine. He said it appears someone used the wrong type of nut on the prop shaft and the threads have minor damage to them. He told me to bolt the prop on if it torqued down properly and didn't strip any thread I'd most likely be fine. He also suggested using a cotter nut and drilling a small hole through the shaft for a cotter pin. But mechanically all seems well the the lower unit.

So for now the motor will probably rest for the winter until I figure out what I'm going to do about the transom. Even the motor guy agreed it was done completely shoddy. Everyone I talked to said the guy was slow but incredible at glass work. I'm not sure what happened but now I'm now sure what I'm going to do with it. I feel no matter what the structural integrity has been compromised due to him cutting the whole back of the boat out and apparently I'm not the only one as everyone that's seen it can't believe it was done that way.

Part of me just wants to rip it all back out and start over with an empty shell but
1- it still bothers me the back had been cut out and it will always be a weak link
2- getting out what he did is probably going to be a nightmare.

Any inspiration would be greatly appreciated. This boat definitely has me down in the dumps about it.

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by 3 Squids

Nice. Did you go with SEI? If so how has it performed?

No, I bought the lower from a rebuild shop in Fla that is on eBay a lot. It was a few years ago so I'm sorry but I don't have the company's name .

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by 3 Squids

So I got the boat back today with a running motor!! Motor sounds great. I was talking to the motor guy and he believed the lower unit will be fine. He said it appears someone used the wrong type of nut on the prop shaft and the threads have minor damage to them. He told me to bolt the prop on if it torqued down properly and didn't strip any thread I'd most likely be fine. He also suggested using a cotter nut and drilling a small hole through the shaft for a cotter pin. But mechanically all seems well the the lower unit.

Before you go and start drilling holes do like a professional machinist would do. Get yourself a couple of thread files. They come two different ways.. one is just a single "V" shape that you place in the grove of the good threads and work backwards towards the damaged threads (useful for a quick touch-up where one thread goes over the next). The other is a long square bar about 9" in length. Each end has 4 different thread sizes ground into it, one ground into each side, for a total of 8 different thread sizes per bar. Buy the bar that has the threads you need on it, lay the correct side of the bar in the good groves like the previous file and work your way from good threads to the bad threads, filing away the damaged parts of the thread as you go. The advantage of this type of file is that since you always have a few teeth ( VVVVVVV) in the good threads your chances of success with restoring your shaft are greatly increased. Most places that sell industrial and machine shop tools will carry them. Harbor Freight even has some, that, although not the best quality, should do the trick as long as the threads marked on the bar match the ones on your shaft. Be aware that they come in both SAE and Metric, so choose carefully. You'll need to know the diameter and how many threads per inch (TPI) your shaft has.

[3 Squids]

Originally Posted by Destroyer

Before you go and start drilling holes do like a professional machinist would do. Get yourself a couple of thread files. They come two different ways.. one is just a single "V" shape that you place in the grove of the good threads and work backwards towards the damaged threads (useful for a quick touch-up where one thread goes over the next). The other is a long square bar about 9" in length. Each end has 4 different thread sizes ground into it, one ground into each side, for a total of 8 different thread sizes per bar. Buy the bar that has the threads you need on it, lay the correct side of the bar in the good groves like the previous file and work your way from good threads to the bad threads, filing away the damaged parts of the thread as you go. The advantage of this type of file is that since you always have a few teeth ( VVVVVVV) in the good threads your chances of success with restoring your shaft are greatly increased. Most places that sell industrial and machine shop tools will carry them. Harbor Freight even has some, that, although not the best quality, should do the trick as long as the threads marked on the bar match the ones on your shaft. Be aware that they come in both SAE and Metric, so choose carefully. You'll need to know the diameter and how many threads per inch (TPI) your shaft has.

Definitely going to look into that first. Thanks a bunch. I never knew such a tool existed.

[SkunkBoat]

sorry to see the problem with the transom. I was worried when I first saw your pic of the outside skin cut off. Not the best way to do it. People think its faster and easier than cutting the cap and going from the inside but then its all on you to shape it.

Question. Could it be that the holes are drilled in the wrong place or angled incorrectly? If you remove the bottom bolts and snug the top, can it sit flush?

Second.
Rather than shave it, consider adding to it to make a flat surface. Way easier. Use some EPOXY hard filler.

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by 3 Squids

Definitely going to look into that first. Thanks a bunch. I never knew such a tool existed.

One picture is worth a thousand words, etc. I'm not endorsing this particular brand or dealer, but this is what a thread file looks like, as shown in the picture. They (the files) come in several different types, to cover all the different thread sizes that are on the market.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-IN-1-THREA...656516&vxp=mtr

[3 Squids]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

sorry to see the problem with the transom. I was worried when I first saw your pic of the outside skin cut off. Not the best way to do it. People think its faster and easier than cutting the cap and going from the inside but then its all on you to shape it.

Question. Could it be that the holes are drilled in the wrong place or angled incorrectly? If you remove the bottom bolts and snug the top, can it sit flush?

Second.
Rather than shave it, consider adding to it to make a flat surface. Way easier. Use some EPOXY hard filler.

No. it's definitely bowed. I put a straight edge along the transom and it teeter-totters like a playground toy. After thinking about it I agree adding material would be better than shaving it down. Guess I'll pull the motor off yet again and see what I can do with it. That's really the least of my worries right now as I gotta reconstruct the splashwell as well. He's got all sorts of 2x4's everywhere I guess bracing things up. Seemed a bit excessive to me. And as you said it had to be shaped back and it was not shaped back at all the way it was. Everything is kind of radiused now and looks terrible. I'm not sure at all how I'm going to get a somewhat sharp edge there without it being weak and breaking off easily.

Originally Posted by Destroyer

One picture is worth a thousand words, etc. I'm not endorsing this particular brand or dealer, but this is what a thread file looks like, as shown in the picture. They (the files) come in several different types, to cover all the different thread sizes that are on the market.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-IN-1-THREA...656516&vxp=mtr

I have seen those before. My dad alsways had a few in his toolbox but I never knew what they were. I'm going to get info on the threads and order one. Worth a shot.