3Squids '79 Center Console thread - Page 9

3 Squids · #81 10-24-2016, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradford

I've learned that fiberglass shops are good places to get free boat storage, often times multiple years worth. Be careful of the hatch in the splash well, potential sinking hazard. A foam roller at least would have been nice of him. I like the transom knees.

Sinking hazard?!?! Well now you gotta explain that or I'll be freaking out every time I take her out. It had one there from the factory I just updated it to a nicer hatch cover.

bradford · #82 10-25-2016, 04:49 PM

Hate to be the guy Squid...

.... but a splash well is designed for when you take green water over the transom it stays out of the boat and bilge and drains quickly away through the scuppers. A hatch than isn't absolutely water tight will allow water into the bilge, which when on board and underway is a manageable situation. The problem is when the scuppers allow water into the splash well due to the aft end sitting low in the water and water seeping (or pouring depending) into the hatch, overwhelming the batteries with the bilge pump constantly running, she gets low enough in the water, and the water just comes across the top of the transom and she eventually sinks at the dock. Other people have had them before, but it's a screaming red flag to me, so I thought I'd mention it.

It would be an easy fix glass wise. I don't mean to freak you out or anything, just something to think about.

Somewhere on here someone posted a go pro video of a guy spear fishing and coming back up to the boat with it listing hard and slowly going down, likely attributed to a low transom and a leaky hatch. Maybe they'll chime in and re post it.

3 Squids · #83 10-25-2016, 06:52 PM

Like I said it had a hatch there from the factory which was not waterproof at all. It was just a fiberglass top sitting on top of a hole with a elastic cord underneath keeping it down. Boat made it 38 years like that so i guess I'll just have to go with it. The well has 2 scuppers with the ping pong ball stopper contraption and drains water pretty rapidly.

3 Squids · #84 10-26-2016, 06:42 PM

Motor is finally hung back on the boat, just about ready to go get the rebuilt powerhead installed.

Also after discovering that the nuts on the 2 eyes in the transom were basically non existent anymore I decided to check the bow eye as well. Well sure enough the nuts were just balls of rust. I can't believe it hasn't pulled out getting it on the trailer. So I bought a new bow eye and my plan is to reglass a core inside the hull as I believe the existing wood core is rotten. For now I just put a piece of wood back there to get it trailered to the motor man. The gel coat around the eye was chipped up pretty badly so I fabricated a little stainless cosmetic plate to cover as much of the mess as I can. I'll also bed it with LifeCaulk once I finish the backing plate.

3 Squids · #85 11-04-2016, 10:36 PM

Well got some bad news today. My lower unit was shot, I knew that already. Apparently the lower unit on the parts motor is also shot. Been searching all afternoon for one and have come up empty handed. I asked the motor man if rebuilding them was a good option and he suggest finding a good used one over rebuilding. Not real sure why but for now I guess I'll take his advice.

So if any of you got any laying around a brother could really use some help right now!!

Also he asked me if I was aware the motor wasn't seated to the transom properly. I asked him what he meant and he said he noticed a gap at the bottom of the mounting bracket. He tried to tighten it and couldn't. He said he loosened the top bolts and tightened the bottom and there was a gap at the top. So pretty much my motor is teeter-tottering top to bottom. Not a real happy camper right now. I have been without my boat for the past 2 months to get a transom put it and it's not done right. I feel with YouTube and advice I could of gotten here or any other forum I could of tackled this project myself and saved a lot of time and headache.

It appears to be about a 1/16" or less gap so I'm thinking maybe I can use a long block to true it up??? What are your thought? I have a photo but seem to be having issues with Photobucket so I'll try to get that up ASAP.

3 Squids · #86 11-05-2016, 10:38 AM

Think I could possibly true it up with a long block sander??

Had to post a bow pic. Dat flare dough!!!

draglink · #87 11-11-2016, 09:49 AM

https://www.facebook.com/19584498711...type=3&theater

don't know if link will work. 20" Lower unit for sale on Mercury site on Facecrack

bradford · #88 11-11-2016, 06:53 PM

Have you checked out SEI, seems like good prices vs taking a chance on something from craigslist.

3 Squids · #89 11-11-2016, 08:37 PM

Mike, my motor is a 25" shaft. Thanks though

Bradford, I'll take a look at them. I talked to my local Mercury shop and he has one that he replaced a year ago then the owner of the boat repowered. He said he'd sell it to me for $1000 and buying it from him will give me a guarantee on it. Right now that's my best option. Just waiting to get it back from the motor guy.

3 Squids · #90 11-11-2016, 08:46 PM

Looked into SEI a little. $845 for a whole new lower unit. Seems like a deal to me. Comes with a 3 year warranty that covers anything. They even claim running with no oil or hitting a stump as covered. May be the route I go depending on shipping. I'm sure that can be expensive.