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#21
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Ok then..
On the water front in Charleston SC!
__________________
Regards Barry 1987 V20 (sold) :( 1996 23' Wellcraft 1991 V20 ;) |
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#22
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Super job. I love teak and don't find it excessively hard to maintain (that said, I rack-store my boat indoors).
FWIW, for I use Cetol Satin Light over natural teak stain for all surfaces except the floor hatches, gunnel step pads, & cleat bottoms, which I just stain and oil once a year. I've only had to redo the Cetol-covered surfaces once in 15 years: http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/album06/L |
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#23
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WOW!
Fitz, That looks as nice and classy as a classic Whaler. Unbelievable!!
__________________
Regards Barry 1987 V20 (sold) :( 1996 23' Wellcraft 1991 V20 ;) |
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#24
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Quote:
__________________
1987 Wellcraft v20 Steplift Tavares, Florida ================ |
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#25
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Quick update... nearing the end. This is the only piece I had to sand & oil on the boat. Ready to gloss all pieces before putting back on the boat.
Everything got 3 coats of Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak. Now for a quick coat or two of Cetol Marine Gloss!
__________________
1987 Wellcraft v20 Steplift Tavares, Florida ================ |
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#26
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Do not paint any teak that you step on, it's too slick.
I'm surprised y'all like cetol so well, I pretty much hate the crap, it's yellow, it peels, & doesn't last very long in the sun. When I want a high gloss finish I use Epifanes, it's expensive but worth it. Just redid the teak in my project boat & used 3 coats of polyurethane, looks great, have to see how it holds up.
__________________
Doug 87 Cuddy with a 94 Black Max 200! & a 1983 Cuddy, looking for power. |
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#27
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ive had good luck with ceatol, the two times ive used it. all about the prep. gotta sand down to pure wood getting rid of ALL of the old finish and gotta time your coats just like the directions say. thats what i was taught and thats what i did. came out nice and held up well. never used the gloss though
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