|
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks so much for all the advice. I did have an old tach from a car that I hooked up and it worked fine. The charging system is working properly, so it looks like I will need to get a new tach. Anybody have one for me that won't cost an arm and a leg? I have looked at the prices on amazon and ebay, not to mention yamaha outboard parts, but not sure if I want to sink that much into it.
Another question, will the malfunctioning tach affect the performance of the motor if I want to take it out fishing? 
|
|
#2
09-03-2015, 03:36 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Shouldn't hurt anything, just annoying.
__________________
2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 
|
|
#3
09-12-2015, 02:02 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Rabbit I've got an old Yamaha tach I'll give you if you pm me where you want me to send it. Not very fancy, and I don't know if it works, but you can't beat the price.
PS, this one is analog, not digital.
__________________
1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20
|
|
#4
09-19-2015, 10:28 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Sorry for the late reply, I thank you very much for your offer, but I really have not made up my mind what to do yet.. I went out last weekend fishing and watched the tach and it acted really funny. The segment for 1 seemed to be steady and while the motor was running the readings were jumping all over the place, sometimes just going totally blank. I'm leaning towards some type of bad connections as this was a totally sudden change in the performance, not a lightening of the readout where it was fading. When the numbers come up they are crystal clear. I think I am going to take it out and try to test it somehow.. and in the meantime go through every single connection I can to check for breaks or whatever..
|
|
#5
09-19-2015, 11:09 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Frem is correct about the crank sensor giving the tach signal, it goes thru the ECU and the computer generates a tach signal for the tach to read. Easiest way to diagnose it is to hook another tach to it. I don't care for the yamaha digital tachs, they are expensive and seem to only last four or five years, I'm old school, I like dials and needles
|
|
#6
09-20-2015, 09:54 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Spare, I had an analog gauge with the needle dial that I hooked up to the battery and connected the signal wire, (green I think) to it and when I started the motor it showed my motor rpm, although a bit high, I suspect because it was meant for an auto, it was steady and showed any increase or decrease in rpm corresponding to the throttle operation. The digital tach worked fine one day, and has for the last 10+ years, and then one day, wtf! It was after the boat sat idle for a few weeks, and was noticed right when I started the motor. Do these things just up and go goofy all at once or do they die a slow death. I was thinking about taking it out the dash and just hooking the power to the battery and connecting the signal wire to make sure of the tach or the wires. What are your thoughts..
|
|
#7
09-20-2015, 10:16 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
yes, I see them go bad time to time, actually I see all kinds of gauges go bad, teh differnce is most of them don't cost $300. BTW, if any of ya'll are running smart craft, the earlier gauges are no longer being made, you have to replace them with the newer style, the fun begines when you figure out hte newer gauges won't work with your old computer, so if you want the newer gauges to work, you have to buy a new computer($2000+), nothing like planned obsolecense
|
 |
|
|
Hybrid Mode
