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  #581  
Unread 06-08-2015, 07:02 PM
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The trick to the clear bubble free 90 degree curves is to build up some thickened (fumed silica,cabosil) resin on the outside corners then lay your cloth down and wet it out like usual when you hit the corners with the bubble popper (roller) its like magic when spread the thickened resin under the cloth.
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  #582  
Unread 06-08-2015, 07:21 PM
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Did a little wiring on sunday. Fuse block and switch panel all wired. Just need to install lights and wire them up.
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  #583  
Unread 06-09-2015, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkunkBoat View Post
do you use fairing compound over it before paint?
Yes it will need to be faired before primer and paint. I just barely bump grind the cloth then apply fairing compound as needed. Dont grind out to much you will lose strength. On this repair i had some thickened resin left so i slicked the repair with what i had left just to use it up.
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  #584  
Unread 06-09-2015, 09:47 AM
cterrebonne cterrebonne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kracker Jack View Post
Yes it will need to be faired before primer and paint. I just barely bump grind the cloth then apply fairing compound as needed. Dont grind out to much you will lose strength. On this repair i had some thickened resin left so i slicked the repair with what i had left just to use it up.
What I have done that works really well to not sand into the 1708 is to put some 1.5 CSM down as your last layer. Just so you have something that's easy to sand and you don't have to worry about cutting the fibers on the 1708.
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  #585  
Unread 06-09-2015, 09:51 AM
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Looking good and good advice all. You'll be happier with the transom at 25 inches.
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  #586  
Unread 06-09-2015, 05:56 PM
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How many layers of glass did you lay on the outside of the repair to bring it even? I'm going to be raising the transom on my Grady to 25" as well.
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  #587  
Unread 06-09-2015, 08:47 PM
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The last layer of 1708 is the only layer thats meets the edge were i stopped grinding. Every other layer is progressive. Meaning i have 4 layers that build up the ply veneer then 2 final layers......the first of the final outside layer falls short from the grinding by like 4 inches....the last and final layer is the only one that meets the grind edge. It lets you progressively build up your thickness with out having all the thickness at the imediate edge. Hopefully that makes sense.
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  #588  
Unread 06-09-2015, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kracker Jack View Post
The last layer of 1708 is the only layer thats meets the edge were i stopped grinding. Every other layer is progressive. Meaning i have 4 layers that build up the ply veneer then 2 final layers......the first of the final outside layer falls short from the grinding by like 4 inches....the last and final layer is the only one that meets the grind edge. It lets you progressively build up your thickness with out having all the thickness at the imediate edge. Hopefully that makes sense.
I think I understand. You have 6 layers total to match the thickness of the original outer skin, including overlap.
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1996 Striper 2100WA-RIP Sandy
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  #589  
Unread 06-09-2015, 09:52 PM
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3 total layers on the inside of the boat total about 3/16 +- thick on the inside. Only one layer wraps the outside of the transom (the seamless piece pictured)and it simply builds the thickness grinded off and completely wraps the entire repair. The other 3 layers are between the ply veneer as i build up the ply layers.
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  #590  
Unread 06-10-2015, 11:03 AM
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I'll be raising mine when I replace the transom so it'll be a little different. I also plan on glassing the seem between the cap and transom, getting rid of the aluminum transom cap.
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