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#11
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Welcome aboard! I have nothing to add to the wiring discussion, but I can say, with all sincerity . . .
More pics, please! 
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#12
02-26-2015, 04:28 PM
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Great feedback and Smoke's twine idea is gonna help out tremendously!
So now I'm looking at my system more critically including the bilges. I honestly thought that a control panel, was a control panel...kinda like in a car, but as I've read above, there's no telling what some one has done. SO to get started, I've inventoried what instruments/devices I know is on her. They are: (Control Panel) nav lights, bilge 1, bilge 2, anchor light, spotlight, windshield wipers, deck lights (Device controlled) vhf, stereo, depth finder, cabin lights Compass light...I think it's on continuously. Also, I read somewhere that she might have a wash down system. How can I identify it? I'm all snowed in right now, but I'll soon get some pics of the cluster I'm facing. I'll also sketch up a desired diagram and get y'all's input. Again, a million thanks!
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#13
02-26-2015, 07:50 PM
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when snaking wires to the rear of the boat I used good string to snake first, then when i tie the wire to pull thur i put another string with the wire, this way there is always a string there to pull another wire if needed.
Also agree that you must use tined wire for a boat! I got on ebay pretty cheap when I did mine. Also if you can all wires should be sodered!! If not get the corrsin crimp ons and coat with liguid eletric tape! And FUSE everthing! Just my opinion. But thats like a$$hole$ we all have one! LOL
__________________
1986 V20  Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!!
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#14
02-27-2015, 01:05 AM
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The twine simulated cable idea is pure genius and I agree with Joe on always pulling in a spare string. I learned that from an electrician friend who helped me wire my shop in EMT conduit - it's paid off many times when I wanted to change or add something.
__________________
 Scott, Portland, OR '85 V-20 I/O, Merc 170
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#15
02-27-2015, 01:44 AM
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i make the pull cord long enough to loop back up. that way i can tie the pull end back the side being pulled, and it just loops back around as you pull.
__________________
2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 
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#16
02-27-2015, 08:31 AM
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I can't always get twine to go where I need it. So, I cut the end off an old shift cable and pulled out the stainless steel core. It is flexible to some extent and yet stiff enough to serve as a poor mans fish tape.
Agree whole-heartedly with leaving an extra piece of twine for next time. Welcome aboard. IMPO you will never regret having done this yourself. The knowledge of what it is, where it is and how it is wired may literally save your life one day. Now is no better time than to replace the bilge pumps, switches and hoses. RULE makes a good pump. 1000 gph or bigger is what I would recommend and consider adding a second bilge pump with its own switch as a backup if the previous owner did not.. I have a couple pumps in the bilge because my boat does not self-bail like most. My pumps are tested before every trip. They are 100% or I ain't going. Yes I am ANAL! I am not an expert. I can tell you what works for me in the past 35+ years.. The book makes for good reading. Then go get your hands dirty. It isn't hard at all, and you will gain valuable experience.
__________________
 1996 -19' NV Flats 115 Mercury 4-stroke 1983 -20' Wellcraft Center Console 250 XS
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#17
02-27-2015, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
The boat has two bilges, and I'm definitely prepared to replace both if needed. I was thinking to have both on switches...is that not necessary? Just have one on a switch and the other straight auto?
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#18
02-27-2015, 02:25 PM
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You can have BOTH on float switches and BOTH on a dual pole switch or separate switches..
Yes they should both be switched in case of a failure of the float switch. It's all about redundancy.
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#19
02-27-2015, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
My main pump in the rear of the boat is a Rule 2000. My pump up forward is a Rule 1200. Like Smoke said, it's all about redundancy. BTW, You can never have too big a bilge pump. Ask MJ about the time a wave came over his windshield...
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless.
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#20
02-27-2015, 07:49 PM
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D what you're talking about is an on/on or on/off/on switch.
I'm referred to a switch with two sets of contacters so both pumps could be controlled by one switch. IE 4 or 6 terminals. Wouldn't be my firs choice tho. Best IMHO tho would be a simple on/off switch for each pump with the float switch always hot.
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Linear Mode
