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#21
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Much like me running a 18hp Kicker on an EZ-IN kicker bracket for several years even thought the bracket was only rated for 10hp. But then again, I've never considered myself as the brightest candle in the box... so what the heck do I know.... 
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God)  Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. 
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#22
10-07-2014, 05:11 AM
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More to look at.
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/th-ma...extension.html
__________________
 '75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny
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#23
10-07-2014, 02:39 PM
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I think you are going to have trouble if you mix metals unless you can insulate that aluminum plate from the stainless angle, the plate will act like a sacrificial anode to the bracket, especially in saltwater.
__________________
Doug 87 Cuddy with a 94 Black Max 200! & a 1983 Cuddy, looking for power. Last edited by garbubba; 10-07-2014 at 02:41 PM. Reason: i'm an idiot
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#24
10-07-2014, 04:45 PM
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he has no need for an aluminum plate.... all he needs is angle and bolts
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#26
10-07-2014, 08:09 PM
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Buy this hull get a free jack plate, $300. Then flip the hull.
http://augusta.craigslist.org/boa/4694174420.html
__________________
1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20
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#27
10-07-2014, 08:20 PM
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Not precisely. I asked how it should be built, and someone suggested to put a plate on the inside.
It's clear from this thread everything should be aluminum, and consensus appears that it isn't strictly needed. The force applied is greatest at the inside top bolts of the transom and the outside bottom bolts due to the whole thing essentially being a lever. The bolts are stainless only because aluminum bols aren't strong enough (if they even exist). I personally am uncomfortable using angle for an engine this size, I would feel better if it were at least "c" channel. That is just my gut feel, no actual numbers to back that up. But I have looked at pictures of Z-Lock for comparison. Most notably, the hi jacker design (which resembles the angle design) is rated up to 150hp. For larger engines, the design changes. The amount of force needed to move 2000lbs of boat, plus 1000lbs of fuel, people, and gear has to be significant ... Plus it must apply some amount of torque due to the prop. [EDIT] Just found this design that uses angle brackets here: Machine Shop Goes up to 300hp, so maybe angle is OK. I am stopping by a metal place Friday to see what is available and what it costs. Last edited by peiserma; 10-07-2014 at 09:28 PM. Reason: bobs machine shop
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#28
10-07-2014, 09:35 PM
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If not you could use this design for yours..... only downside is a couple more holes n the transom.
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#29
10-07-2014, 10:21 PM
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It may work just fine for a long time. I understand perfectly well that T&H designed in margin, but I could never sleep well at night using something beyond rated capacity. Fukushima got hit by almost 10x worse than it was designed for, which has no bearing on this topic, but it does reinforce the idea that safety can never have enough margin. While I appreciate the viewpoint, I'd never be comfortable with it
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#30
10-07-2014, 10:29 PM
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Linear Mode
