![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
What fasteners do you use to keep from having dissimilar metals?
__________________
1996 -19' NV Flats 115 Mercury 4-stroke 1983 -20' Wellcraft Center Console 250 XS |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Unfortunately, that's one of the conundrums of boat building. The bolts of choice are Stainless Steel because of their strength and corrosion resistance. But, they are dissimilar to the Aluminum that the outboard engine is made of. That's where the use of sacrificial zincs comes in. Just remember that the less dissimilar metal there is, the less potential there is for galvanic corrosion.
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks a bunch, you've given me enough to go on for now. I really appreciate it. I'll see what 1/2" angle costs locally, take some measurements of transom and motor, then sketch up some plans. I will post the sketch for final input and recommendations for the proper height. Will need until next week.
Last question before I hide in the mad scientist cave to sketch up my plans: if i use 3" x 3" angle 1/2" thick, setback will be around 4". Using the 2" setback = 1" of lift rule, that equals 2". So I should plan to raise the motor 3" (recall it is a 20" transom and a 25" motor) in relation to my old one? |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
the math here would net you 7" BUT instead of just assuming you need to measure from the keel to the top of the transom and from the anti vent plate on the motor to the bottom of the transom hooks.......
Understand that you will set only your lowest possible height here so build to put the anti vent plate 1" below the expected desired height... in this case since you expect to need it 2" above the keel you would aim for a minimum of 1" above the keel.... Then you can raise the motor one hole at a time till you get the best performance. example: if your motor shaft is actually 26" and your transom is actually 19 then you would need 9" -1" for a total of 8" |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Honestly I have to admit..... while I can't suggest it to anyone else as it is officially a BAD idea I would probably just run the 150 hp pre made plate.... Jus sayin
|
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Much like me running a 18hp Kicker on an EZ-IN kicker bracket for several years even thought the bracket was only rated for 10hp. But then again, I've never considered myself as the brightest candle in the box... so what the heck do I know....
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
It may work just fine for a long time. I understand perfectly well that T&H designed in margin, but I could never sleep well at night using something beyond rated capacity. Fukushima got hit by almost 10x worse than it was designed for, which has no bearing on this topic, but it does reinforce the idea that safety can never have enough margin. While I appreciate the viewpoint, I'd never be comfortable with it |
![]() |
|
|